Koyo Radiator...which cap?
well, when the ECU sees that the coolant temp is low, it runs the engine richer to help get it warmed up. when you have a 160*F thermostat the engine is going to run might cold, and the ECU will be adding fuel to the mixture b/c it will always think the engine isn't warmed up correctly. a little editing of the ECU would fix this, although i wouldn't change the coolant temp stuff too much as i'm not sure exactly how it interacts with the standard fuel maps on Hondas. i know how to remedy this on Nissan 240SX/300ZX, but every ECU works differently.
EDIT: Damn, beat me!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeDonDeRosa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">THE ecu still thinks the cars warming up????? explain? never heard of it </TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess, when the thermostat opens and the cooled coolant flowing through the motor is much colder than normal, so the sensor reads the coolant temp as very low. I guess the car acts as though it was a cold start and puts more fuel in.
Radiator would have to run pretty damn cold for that to happen though. And I don't understand how a cap would affect this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeDonDeRosa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">THE ecu still thinks the cars warming up????? explain? never heard of it </TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess, when the thermostat opens and the cooled coolant flowing through the motor is much colder than normal, so the sensor reads the coolant temp as very low. I guess the car acts as though it was a cold start and puts more fuel in.
Radiator would have to run pretty damn cold for that to happen though. And I don't understand how a cap would affect this.
no i wasn't referring to the cap. i was referring to lower temp thermostats. i refuse to run one until i get around to chipping/tuning my ECU to i can fix some of the over-rich problems it would cause. lots of people go out and get a lower thermostat when they get a bigger radiator. i forgot to mention that that was what i was referring to. IMO, if you have a giant Koyo, you don't need anything but the stock cap, but since a 1.3bar is like $20, whatever. i've got my stock 0.9bar and my turbo is water cooled and i make 190whp and for the life of me even with stock SMIC i can't get the temp to move once it's warmed up. in fact if i stay out of boost the thermostat won't open but a little tiny bit and the temp will actually go lower. i don't even have my radiator fan hooked up in FL's summer, that's how good the cooling is.
for Koyo.
for Koyo.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shamoo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EDIT: Damn, beat me!
I guess, when the thermostat opens and the cooled coolant flowing through the motor is much colder than normal, so the sensor reads the coolant temp as very low. I guess the car acts as though it was a cold start and puts more fuel in.
Radiator would have to run pretty damn cold for that to happen though. And I don't understand how a cap would affect this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well I guess if you buy an aftermarket cap that's like 1:3 and since it increases the presure the boiling point is rasied. You already explained the rest. Don't hold me to this though, this is just a guess.
I guess, when the thermostat opens and the cooled coolant flowing through the motor is much colder than normal, so the sensor reads the coolant temp as very low. I guess the car acts as though it was a cold start and puts more fuel in.
Radiator would have to run pretty damn cold for that to happen though. And I don't understand how a cap would affect this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well I guess if you buy an aftermarket cap that's like 1:3 and since it increases the presure the boiling point is rasied. You already explained the rest. Don't hold me to this though, this is just a guess.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. One Lane »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I guess if you buy an aftermarket cap that's like 1:3 and since it increases the presure the boiling point is rasied. You already explained the rest. Don't hold me to this though, this is just a guess.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup, 100% correct. BP is raised.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shamoo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EDIT: Damn, beat me!
I guess, when the thermostat opens and the cooled coolant flowing through the motor is much colder than normal, so the sensor reads the coolant temp as very low. I guess the car acts as though it was a cold start and puts more fuel in.
Radiator would have to run pretty damn cold for that to happen though. And I don't understand how a cap would affect this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it's more than that though . . . a stock thermostat won't open all the way with an oversized radiator. when you start making serious power, and the coolant in the engine heats up, the thermostat will open and allow the radiator to do its job. then when the engine stops making heat, it will block some flow to the radiator again to keep the engine from getting too cool. so if you get a lower temp thermostat, it will allow more flow to the radiator at lower temps. so really, there is no reason to get one at all. it doesn't increase cooling ability, it just allows more flow to the radiator at cooler temps, which means except for really high-output cars on the track, the engine will run cooler all the time. engines have better efficiency when they're hot. 250*F would be great but except for race engines, most engines can't handle the head. higher operating temp = higher efficiency = more HP. so keep the stock thermostat and when the going gets rough, let it do its job.
</TD></TR></TABLE>yup, 100% correct. BP is raised.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shamoo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EDIT: Damn, beat me!
I guess, when the thermostat opens and the cooled coolant flowing through the motor is much colder than normal, so the sensor reads the coolant temp as very low. I guess the car acts as though it was a cold start and puts more fuel in.
Radiator would have to run pretty damn cold for that to happen though. And I don't understand how a cap would affect this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it's more than that though . . . a stock thermostat won't open all the way with an oversized radiator. when you start making serious power, and the coolant in the engine heats up, the thermostat will open and allow the radiator to do its job. then when the engine stops making heat, it will block some flow to the radiator again to keep the engine from getting too cool. so if you get a lower temp thermostat, it will allow more flow to the radiator at lower temps. so really, there is no reason to get one at all. it doesn't increase cooling ability, it just allows more flow to the radiator at cooler temps, which means except for really high-output cars on the track, the engine will run cooler all the time. engines have better efficiency when they're hot. 250*F would be great but except for race engines, most engines can't handle the head. higher operating temp = higher efficiency = more HP. so keep the stock thermostat and when the going gets rough, let it do its job.
my stock cap did not fit my koyo radiator
if i just have the rad no thermostat just the stock 1 whats will the differenct be with a .9 cap and a 1.3 cap what is the difference i dont get it
if i just have the rad no thermostat just the stock 1 whats will the differenct be with a .9 cap and a 1.3 cap what is the difference i dont get it
the difference is that with a stock (0.9bar or 1.1bar, usually) cap, the boiling temperature of the coolant/water will be lower than the boiling temperature of the coolant/water with a 1.3bar cap. this is totally unneccesary for cars that aren't making big power, so don't worry. just find a cap that fits. try the other kind of integra, since tegs came with two different kinds of stock radiators. maybe the stock cap off the other kind will fit. LS and GSR radiators are different part numbers so start with that.
well i went to an autoparts store and i got a crx cap which is 1.3
will it affect anything because its a 1.3 and not stock one ??? could it hurt ? or what could happen
will it affect anything because its a 1.3 and not stock one ??? could it hurt ? or what could happen
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrboy171 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow the flow of a themostat makes a big difference when you have big HP.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the flow of a stock 195*F thermostat is equal to a high performance thermostat if they're both at 200*F. equal or nearly equal, anyways. if you're really worried, just take it out at the track.
the flow of a stock 195*F thermostat is equal to a high performance thermostat if they're both at 200*F. equal or nearly equal, anyways. if you're really worried, just take it out at the track.
well i went to an autoparts store and i got a crx cap which is 1.3
will it affect anything because its a 1.3 and not stock one ??? could it hurt ? or what could happen
WHAT IF THE CAR HAS FORCED INDUCTION????? THE 1.3 CAP???
will it affect anything because its a 1.3 and not stock one ??? could it hurt ? or what could happen
WHAT IF THE CAR HAS FORCED INDUCTION????? THE 1.3 CAP???
DO U KNOW OF A RAD CAP THAT IS STOCK SPECS BUT WILL FIT THE KOYO RADIATOR???????
http://WWW.ABSOLUTERADIATOR.COM/RADCAP.HTM
http://WWW.ABSOLUTERADIATOR.COM/RADCAP.HTM
I think it's .9, but i'm not positive
0.9 bar = 13 psi
1.1 bar = 16 psi
Switching to a higher-pressure cap will prevent it from venting too soon. But the higher pressure might not be good if your radiator or hoses are designed for a pressure of 0.9 bar.
0.9 bar = 13 psi
1.1 bar = 16 psi
Switching to a higher-pressure cap will prevent it from venting too soon. But the higher pressure might not be good if your radiator or hoses are designed for a pressure of 0.9 bar.



