what chain and sprockets to go with?
i searched and found a lot of mixed answers...
i have a 2001 kawasaki zx-6r. i wont be stunting that much. just want it to be easier to wheelie. so nothing TOO crazy
chain. DID, but what kind theres like 5 types? and i heard 520 can break pretty easy...so what would you suggest?
also what sprocket company and how much...-1 front and +2 rear?
thanks for any input
i have a 2001 kawasaki zx-6r. i wont be stunting that much. just want it to be easier to wheelie. so nothing TOO crazy
chain. DID, but what kind theres like 5 types? and i heard 520 can break pretty easy...so what would you suggest?
also what sprocket company and how much...-1 front and +2 rear?
thanks for any input
-1/+2 is what most people will do. It helps the bike accelerate faster and isn't unreasonable for riding around town.
I usually go with the best deal, and replace as needed. A 530 chain is sufficient. You'll want to replace the sprockets and chain together at the same time. You could probably get away with 2 chains for ea. pair of sprockets if you needed to.
I usually go with the best deal, and replace as needed. A 530 chain is sufficient. You'll want to replace the sprockets and chain together at the same time. You could probably get away with 2 chains for ea. pair of sprockets if you needed to.
I just bought a renthal front sprocket -1 for my R1. Ive been reading around and alot of guys say down one in the front works great for the street and you dont have to get a new chain. And it only costs $30
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yimmy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just bought a renthal front sprocket -1 for my R1. Ive been reading around and alot of guys say down one in the front works great for the street and you dont have to get a new chain. And it only costs $30
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is that an alloy one, be interesting to see how many miles that holds up for?
I would add 1-2 on the back sprocket for the road and try it out.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Is that an alloy one, be interesting to see how many miles that holds up for?
I would add 1-2 on the back sprocket for the road and try it out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yimmy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am going to see how -1 on the front works and probably go 2+ this winter. I cant keep the front on down on it stock so Im interested to see what it does -1.</TD></TR></TABLE>
-1 on the front wil be a fair amount mate, seriously increase the rear by 1-2
-1 on the front wil be a fair amount mate, seriously increase the rear by 1-2
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rtpassini »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what company should i go with for the sprockets?
and do i have to count how many teeth i have on the sprockets now and order the difference....or how does that work?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sprocket Specialist is my company of choice, we get blanks from them all the time.
Stock tooth count will be in your owner's manual, if you don't want to take off the cover to count the front sprocket.
and do i have to count how many teeth i have on the sprockets now and order the difference....or how does that work?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sprocket Specialist is my company of choice, we get blanks from them all the time.
Stock tooth count will be in your owner's manual, if you don't want to take off the cover to count the front sprocket.
15 front 40 rear for me. just found that out
so far i hear good things about sprocket specialist, but more are praising renthal.
so im thinking 14 for the front and 42 rear with a did 530 chain...hows that sound?
Modified by rtpassini at 12:40 AM 9/29/2005
so far i hear good things about sprocket specialist, but more are praising renthal.
so im thinking 14 for the front and 42 rear with a did 530 chain...hows that sound?
Modified by rtpassini at 12:40 AM 9/29/2005
Its basically just preferance. The 530 is usually stronger and is used for drag racing and high torqued bikes. Most people use the 520 and it will most likely not break on you. Go with the 520. If the 1000's are using these the 600's shouldnt have any problems. Hope that helps
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rtpassini »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">quick question....
theres a bunch of 530's...what do they all mean...and which one do you recommend?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe, believe (I may be off base), that those different numbers are the width of the chain. 520/530 are the pitch, as in the difference between the rollers, and that the number after it, such as 520-108, is a width difference.
I only say this because I know a 530 chain will fit on a 520 sprocket, but a 520 will not fit on a 530 sprocket.
theres a bunch of 530's...what do they all mean...and which one do you recommend?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe, believe (I may be off base), that those different numbers are the width of the chain. 520/530 are the pitch, as in the difference between the rollers, and that the number after it, such as 520-108, is a width difference.
I only say this because I know a 530 chain will fit on a 520 sprocket, but a 520 will not fit on a 530 sprocket.
Luke or Goullish:
I see recommendations for a guy whos putting a -1 up front to also do a +2 in the rear...Why is it you guys suggest this?
I know quite a few guys that just got -1 up front for track use because it increases low end alot, and hardly any speedo error...also if you add +2 in the rear will it not also drastically increase your speedo error?? so why is it you suggest adding +2 in the rear , i know it will make your low end that much stronger, but isnt the speedo error getting that much worse a downside? Ive never had a bike geared anything other than stock so thats why i ask.
edit: or is it that adding the +2 in the rear balances the differnce out?? cause -1 up front makes a much stronger low end and adding the +2 in the rear counters that balance? so its not quite as strong?
I see recommendations for a guy whos putting a -1 up front to also do a +2 in the rear...Why is it you guys suggest this?
I know quite a few guys that just got -1 up front for track use because it increases low end alot, and hardly any speedo error...also if you add +2 in the rear will it not also drastically increase your speedo error?? so why is it you suggest adding +2 in the rear , i know it will make your low end that much stronger, but isnt the speedo error getting that much worse a downside? Ive never had a bike geared anything other than stock so thats why i ask.
edit: or is it that adding the +2 in the rear balances the differnce out?? cause -1 up front makes a much stronger low end and adding the +2 in the rear counters that balance? so its not quite as strong?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gixxerfiend »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Luke or Goullish:
I see recommendations for a guy whos putting a -1 up front to also do a +2 in the rear...Why is it you guys suggest this?
I know quite a few guys that just got -1 up front for track use because it increases low end alot, and hardly any speedo error...also if you add +2 in the rear will it not also drastically increase your speedo error?? so why is it you suggest adding +2 in the rear , i know it will make your low end that much stronger, but isnt the speedo error getting that much worse a downside? Ive never had a bike geared anything other than stock so thats why i ask.
edit: or is it that adding the +2 in the rear balances the differnce out?? cause -1 up front makes a much stronger low end and adding the +2 in the rear counters that balance? so its not quite as strong?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I work on the principal that taking one tooth off the front is the equivalent of three on the rear, this is a fairly aggressive change in the ratio. Most new bikes have digital speedo's driven from the front wheel, some still from the gearbox, makes the rear sprocket an evern better option. On something like an R1 you are unlikely to be using 170mph that much (......) and the amont of money it costs to make a few HP after a pipe and power commander is high. A sprocket change will give you gains everywhere and elimate the chance of holes in your curve. Seriously if you drop the gearing and lose just 10mph at the top the reponse is so much improved where you use it most its not even funny.
I see recommendations for a guy whos putting a -1 up front to also do a +2 in the rear...Why is it you guys suggest this?
I know quite a few guys that just got -1 up front for track use because it increases low end alot, and hardly any speedo error...also if you add +2 in the rear will it not also drastically increase your speedo error?? so why is it you suggest adding +2 in the rear , i know it will make your low end that much stronger, but isnt the speedo error getting that much worse a downside? Ive never had a bike geared anything other than stock so thats why i ask.
edit: or is it that adding the +2 in the rear balances the differnce out?? cause -1 up front makes a much stronger low end and adding the +2 in the rear counters that balance? so its not quite as strong?
</TD></TR></TABLE>I work on the principal that taking one tooth off the front is the equivalent of three on the rear, this is a fairly aggressive change in the ratio. Most new bikes have digital speedo's driven from the front wheel, some still from the gearbox, makes the rear sprocket an evern better option. On something like an R1 you are unlikely to be using 170mph that much (......) and the amont of money it costs to make a few HP after a pipe and power commander is high. A sprocket change will give you gains everywhere and elimate the chance of holes in your curve. Seriously if you drop the gearing and lose just 10mph at the top the reponse is so much improved where you use it most its not even funny.
Alright thats what i was thinking too, I was just curious as to why you also said to add a +2 in the rear when you -1 from the front, and thats makes sense. Plus the R1 has SUCH a high end in first gear, dropping the gearing would make first gear a little more practical...I agree its MUCH cheaper than going exhaust and power comander which can cost in the $1000's.
I thought all the 04-05's were driven from a front wheel speedo but Im not sure, I know my 99 ZX-7 was so i figured anything newer than that would have a front wheel driven speedo...do you know if any of the moderns arn't?
Thanks Luke!!
I thought all the 04-05's were driven from a front wheel speedo but Im not sure, I know my 99 ZX-7 was so i figured anything newer than that would have a front wheel driven speedo...do you know if any of the moderns arn't?
Thanks Luke!!
The 530 chain is more durable. 520 chain and sprocket has less mass and will help acceleration. Make sure the sprockets are steel (more durable and won't break) instead of aluminum if u are riding on the street mostly. Alot of track bikes have aluminum sprockets.
I first put a +2 sprocket on the rear and it woke the bike up and u won't notice the lack in top speed. Then I put -1 front and it accelerated even harder but the rpms stay higher and mpg will suffer. I can cruise 45 mph in 6th gear now whereas before I had to do it in 4th or 5th depending on how responsive I wanted the bike to be.
I first put a +2 sprocket on the rear and it woke the bike up and u won't notice the lack in top speed. Then I put -1 front and it accelerated even harder but the rpms stay higher and mpg will suffer. I can cruise 45 mph in 6th gear now whereas before I had to do it in 4th or 5th depending on how responsive I wanted the bike to be.
Ive heard good things from both vortex and renthal. I don't think either of those would be a bad decision. Im not sure how they price compaired to others though. I imagine more money cause of brand name.
I see that the Renthal rear is 7075 alum which may be a lot harder than 6061. Of course Renthal probably also has good Quality Control, so does RK and Vortex. I want to get a DID chain next time, have an RK now 530 size. I will experiment with 520 and aluminum sometime in the near future. Curious to know how quick it'll rev up.
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