rear brake pad replacement prob..ideas?
so heres the issue.
Ive changed brake pads before w/o any probs. Last time I changed the rear pads was 2 years ago almost and no probs. So today I started the project DS first. Now usually I use a C-clamp to compress the piston, but turning it w/ a screwdriver clockwise seemed to work best(kinda like it was threaded almost). Put everything back together, caliper went on snugger like usual and moved on to the PS.
This time I had to compress it w/ the c-clamp (it was a bitch), the caliper was super fricken tight and eventually I couldnt even get the lower caliper bolt to line up and was pressed for time so I threw the 2 best old pads from both sides (yes I used the best propper inner and outer pad too) back on. Caliper slipped on fine, bolts lined up and I was off to work.
Now work is ony a 5 mile drive down the highway and my car felt kinda sluggish. When I parked the car smelled funny and noticed the brakes were mildly smoking and smelling as if I had driven w/ the e-brake partially engaged. Ebrake hasnt been engaged/used since before I started this project. I dont know what went wrong this time, but maybe someone else has some ideas or experiance w/ this. The only thing I can think of is that I put the shims on the new pads from the old ones like I always have and maybe if I take them off it'll allow that little fraction more of space. Heres a pic ot the new and old. Whatcha think??

The one on the left (inner) has a mini shim but the othe one doesnt. I put theones that have always been w/ the car on both..
Ive changed brake pads before w/o any probs. Last time I changed the rear pads was 2 years ago almost and no probs. So today I started the project DS first. Now usually I use a C-clamp to compress the piston, but turning it w/ a screwdriver clockwise seemed to work best(kinda like it was threaded almost). Put everything back together, caliper went on snugger like usual and moved on to the PS.
This time I had to compress it w/ the c-clamp (it was a bitch), the caliper was super fricken tight and eventually I couldnt even get the lower caliper bolt to line up and was pressed for time so I threw the 2 best old pads from both sides (yes I used the best propper inner and outer pad too) back on. Caliper slipped on fine, bolts lined up and I was off to work.
Now work is ony a 5 mile drive down the highway and my car felt kinda sluggish. When I parked the car smelled funny and noticed the brakes were mildly smoking and smelling as if I had driven w/ the e-brake partially engaged. Ebrake hasnt been engaged/used since before I started this project. I dont know what went wrong this time, but maybe someone else has some ideas or experiance w/ this. The only thing I can think of is that I put the shims on the new pads from the old ones like I always have and maybe if I take them off it'll allow that little fraction more of space. Heres a pic ot the new and old. Whatcha think??

The one on the left (inner) has a mini shim but the othe one doesnt. I put theones that have always been w/ the car on both..
Well you have to turn the star looking thing on the piston to the right, that way the piston would go in, cause i had that same problem too, you could use something to do it, u need a special tool, but u could use like needle nose pliers for example to turn the threads that i'm telling to the right. I remember i struggled until my teacher told me what i had to do.
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R_ACE1
Honda Accord & Crosstour (2003 - 2012)
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Aug 16, 2009 12:53 PM



