Installed GSR cluster, tach goes to 11k+...STOCK ECU??!!!
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UPDATE #2: page 2
UPDATE: I soldered both connections very good, still does the same thing.
If someone can be sure of it, if its the dizzy, i will be going obd-1
Aight so heres whats goin on. I installed a gsr cluster in my 88 crx. Everything works fine. The tach kinda works but its funky.
The first 10 minutes or so after i start it and drive around, the tach works perfect and redlines at exactly 8200. After that when i get past about 4500 the tach will jump forward and back, but the engine stills runs perfectly smooth. When im beating on it and taking it to redline, once it gets to 7k it jumps to 11k and just jumps around up there. I have a video for reference.
Also, I figured it may bee a loose connection or sumthin, so i wired the tach up like u wire a aftermarket tach. From the back of the cluster, to the blue wire on the dizzy. I didn't solder tho, because i dont have one. I just twisted tightly and heatshrinked. Its still does the same thing though.
Some people may say its the ignitor, but thats happened to me before and its not the same. The engine still runs smoothly.
I still ran a 14.5@96.15 with this problem.
Thanks in advance everyone. Hopefully i can fix this. Let me know if there's another forum that would be more helpful.
VIDEO:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....5NTQx
Pictures of splicing:


Modified by b16crxkid at 5:19 AM 9/28/2005
Modified by b16crxkid at 5:04 AM 9/29/2005
Modified by b16crxkid at 11:53 PM 9/29/2005
UPDATE: I soldered both connections very good, still does the same thing.
If someone can be sure of it, if its the dizzy, i will be going obd-1
Aight so heres whats goin on. I installed a gsr cluster in my 88 crx. Everything works fine. The tach kinda works but its funky.
The first 10 minutes or so after i start it and drive around, the tach works perfect and redlines at exactly 8200. After that when i get past about 4500 the tach will jump forward and back, but the engine stills runs perfectly smooth. When im beating on it and taking it to redline, once it gets to 7k it jumps to 11k and just jumps around up there. I have a video for reference.
Also, I figured it may bee a loose connection or sumthin, so i wired the tach up like u wire a aftermarket tach. From the back of the cluster, to the blue wire on the dizzy. I didn't solder tho, because i dont have one. I just twisted tightly and heatshrinked. Its still does the same thing though.
Some people may say its the ignitor, but thats happened to me before and its not the same. The engine still runs smoothly.
I still ran a 14.5@96.15 with this problem.
Thanks in advance everyone. Hopefully i can fix this. Let me know if there's another forum that would be more helpful.
VIDEO:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....5NTQx
Pictures of splicing:


Modified by b16crxkid at 5:19 AM 9/28/2005
Modified by b16crxkid at 5:04 AM 9/29/2005
Modified by b16crxkid at 11:53 PM 9/29/2005
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PURPLETERROR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go back and solder your connections</TD></TR></TABLE>
U think it makes that big of a difference? HMm i guess i'll go buy one. Hope it works.
U think it makes that big of a difference? HMm i guess i'll go buy one. Hope it works.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by virginia_dude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree........always solder connections....a loose connection can fry parts with votage spikes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
****, im gonna be solderin about 50 things this week
****, im gonna be solderin about 50 things this week
You would be surprised how many intermittant or flakey problems can haunt you just twisting wires together....
Trust me on that...been there done that.
Trust me on that...been there done that.
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get one of those plastic things you can clamp on and it spices into the other wire. allthough i dont really think that wire being like that is the problem i bet its something in the dizzy.
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yeah, i have twisted so many wires together, damnit. Im gonna be a good *** solderer soon!! haha! I hope i can remember everything ive spliced
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by e jay one »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get one of those plastic things you can clamp on and it spices into the other wire. allthough i dont really think that wire being like that is the problem i bet its something in the dizzy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh yea, my tach worked perfect before i did this!!!
So im pretty sure its not something in the dizzy.
Oh yea, my tach worked perfect before i did this!!!
So im pretty sure its not something in the dizzy.
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UPDATED up top!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by e jay one »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. allthough i dont really think that wire being like that is the problem i bet its something in the dizzy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You may be right.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by virginia_dude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You would be surprised how many intermittant or flakey problems can haunt you just twisting wires together....
Trust me on that...been there done that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What has messed up for you that u twisted together?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by e jay one »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. allthough i dont really think that wire being like that is the problem i bet its something in the dizzy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You may be right.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by virginia_dude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You would be surprised how many intermittant or flakey problems can haunt you just twisting wires together....
Trust me on that...been there done that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What has messed up for you that u twisted together?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91CivicHatchback »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dunno how to help you with your problem...but ill flatter you a lil...looks like your car pulls pretty hard
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thank you!
Try heatshrink tubing. its alot easier & quicker than Solder. All you need is a lighter or a heatgun to shrink it and its permanent, flexable, watertight. about %1000 better than Solder and electrical tape IMO.
the same exact thing happen to my friends gsr ,we couldnt find out what was wrong and it got worse it turnout to be the distributor. it looks like you got everything hook up right other wise it wouldnt be reading anything, whats happening is after 7k it looses signal and it goes crazy , try swiching your distributor to see if the problem gets fix.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99teggsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try heatshrink tubing. its alot easier & quicker than Solder. All you need is a lighter or a heatgun to shrink it and its permanent, flexable, watertight. about %1000 better than Solder and electrical tape IMO. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, i use heatshrink for everything most of the time. but i didnt for that first time i spliced, just in case i need to work on it again. Which ended up happening.
I think im just gonna solder it back to the original tach signal wire, for less clutter under my hood.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LLEO245 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the same exact thing happen to my friends gsr ,we couldnt find out what was wrong and it got worse it turnout to be the distributor. it looks like you got everything hook up right other wise it wouldnt be reading anything, whats happening is after 7k it looses signal and it goes crazy , try swiching your distributor to see if the problem gets fix. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks. Too bad noone around here has a OBD-0 b16a. At least thats good enough friends to swap their dizzy for a bit
Damn, I had almost saved up for the full-race traction bar too. Guess i'll be goin OBD-1 instead...its cool tho
Yeah, i use heatshrink for everything most of the time. but i didnt for that first time i spliced, just in case i need to work on it again. Which ended up happening.
I think im just gonna solder it back to the original tach signal wire, for less clutter under my hood.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LLEO245 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the same exact thing happen to my friends gsr ,we couldnt find out what was wrong and it got worse it turnout to be the distributor. it looks like you got everything hook up right other wise it wouldnt be reading anything, whats happening is after 7k it looses signal and it goes crazy , try swiching your distributor to see if the problem gets fix. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks. Too bad noone around here has a OBD-0 b16a. At least thats good enough friends to swap their dizzy for a bit
Damn, I had almost saved up for the full-race traction bar too. Guess i'll be goin OBD-1 instead...its cool tho
What has messed up that I twisted together?
well lets say I have a degree in electronics and I admit I have taken the easy way out and twisted wires together too....even though I knew better...
THere is a proper way to twist wires together without solder...its called a Western Union Splice...
But with cars and the enviroments therein its still a poor idea. Solder and shrink tubing to keep moisture out afterwards is the best way to do it....down the road you will have far fewer problems...
well lets say I have a degree in electronics and I admit I have taken the easy way out and twisted wires together too....even though I knew better...
THere is a proper way to twist wires together without solder...its called a Western Union Splice...
But with cars and the enviroments therein its still a poor idea. Solder and shrink tubing to keep moisture out afterwards is the best way to do it....down the road you will have far fewer problems...
Definately looks like a bad ignitor or coil to me. They start to screw up when pushed.
Could be coincidence or maybe something else got messed up during the gsr cluster install.
Did u disconnect the battery when u installed it?
Could be coincidence or maybe something else got messed up during the gsr cluster install.
Did u disconnect the battery when u installed it?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Definately looks like a bad ignitor or coil to me. They start to screw up when pushed.
Could be coincidence or maybe something else got messed up during the gsr cluster install.
Did u disconnect the battery when u installed it?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Um i dunno, i think i did. Why?? what could mess up if i didnt disconnect it?
Could be coincidence or maybe something else got messed up during the gsr cluster install.
Did u disconnect the battery when u installed it?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Um i dunno, i think i did. Why?? what could mess up if i didnt disconnect it?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by virginia_dude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">THere is a proper way to twist wires together without solder...its called a Western Union Splice...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What is this, western union splice?? maybe i did it and didnt know it!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What is this, western union splice?? maybe i did it and didnt know it!!!
Just hook up a known good tach through the wire at the cluster and check that it works. If it does, you've probably got a bad tach. If not, either wiring or distributor would be the likely problem. Try a known good dizzy if you've got one.


