Pretty much like the topic says. I have a GSR motor in my car (Hondata tuned) and I plan on doing a complete build on my motor. Sleeves, rods, pistons, etc... and maybe with an 83mm bore.

I would like to have more torque. My intentions is to make at least 375whp daily driven. 400whp would be great though. So, my question is......

>>> do I build my motor with an 83mm bore and GSR crank or should I go with an LS crank???

Based on your experiences what are the pros and cons of each?

For starters.... Will I loose rpm??.... Like will I not be able to rev to 8k rpm? etc.


Thanks


Modified by G-Phi at 7:12 PM 9/27/2005


Modified by G-Phi at 8:14 PM 10/16/2005

 

???

 

Alot of people do swap the LS crack in there GSR. Honestly I would be happy with either since I have a B16. If you decide to get rid of the GSR crank PM me if your goign to sell it. I think a GSR crank will work in my block witht he right rods right?

 

nope, the b16 deck is shorter

ls crank in GSR block is what others call the "right" way of doing LS/vtec, but whatever floats your boat

 

curious as to why they say its the right way of doing an ls/vtec, the bore/stroke would still be the same (89/81). i dont see any other reasons besides the oil gallery feeding directly to the head instead of the external feedline. But many people have been doing it that way for yearrs w out problems .

 

it's easier....just slap the crank in and slap the head on. No tapping, oil lines, or drilling ( the dowel pins if you wanna get techinical, the stock pins will work fine

 

Will the ls crank make any difference in power/torque/horsepower as opposed to the GSR crank?

If so, how??

The car will be turboed either way.

 

I want more torque but I'd like to get feedback about how ls crank may be better than the GSR crank or vice versa....and why?

 

the LS crank and rods will give you more torque

 

Thanks!

 

Any negatives to getting an ls crank?

 

Keep in mind the difference in stroke between these cranks is a miniscule 1.8mm or 0.07". It's not going to be like the kick of going to a K24 shortblock over a K20 shortblock, you're only going to gain a couple ft-lbs of torque. The only disadvantage is if you still have oil squirters you gotta get rid of them because the weights on the LS crank will run into them.

 

Hmm?? Thanks Chip. I didn't know that. I thought there was a huge or at least a noticeable difference in torque between the two cranks.

I have been really torn between the two and I wanted to get some feedback from some people who have gone from GSR crank to LS crank who actually know the difference.

I'm going to get my motor rebuilt/sleeved.....the hole 9 yards and I if I change cranks then I might as well change it while my motor is out of my car. Either way I'm seriously considering doing like an 83mm bore.

I guess I've been torn between the two. Is is really worth it to change my GSR crank for an LS crank or just leave it?? Hmm???

Argggg!!

 

As it's been stated in this post...the difference in stoke in minimal. You gain few ft/lbs, but nothing drastic by far. I have a B16...so I'm going LS/VTEC for the simple reason its easier/cheaper to find an LS block than it is a GSR. If you can find an LS crank in good condition (no previously spun bearing etc.) go for it. But you will be able to meet your power goals with the GSR crank for sure. In the end it's your call...both will be a great choice.

 

Thanks!

 

if you want more low end torque swap out the turbo for a ball bearing

 

If you want more torque, go with a 2-stage turbo system. It's a lot of work, but you won't have to waste half your rpm spooling an oversized turbo.

As for the crank, the LS crank difference won't even be that noticable. I have an LS VTEC because I already had a B16. If I had the money lying around I would have used a B18C block instead. The oil squirters aren't even much of a benefit once you move onto forged internals, with the different wrist pins you don't even need the same amount of lubrication. (yes I know the squirters are there primarily for cooling)

Bottom line, stick with stock GSR crank. Or trade with me...

 

Hehehee! Yeah, based on you guy's posts it seems like it's not worth it to change cranks being that the difference wouldn't be that noticeable. I might just stick with my GSR crank, bore out the cylder walls, sleeve them, do all the extra little extras, re-tune it and turn up the boost. Looking to boost for approx. 375-400whp.

Thanks for your replies. It's helping me out.

 

im in the same boat as you, i decided to go ls vtec. the only con w/ ls vtec is the fact that it does not have a girdle.......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM00SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im in the same boat as you, i decided to go ls vtec. the only con w/ ls vtec is the fact that it does not have a girdle.......</TD></TR></TABLE>

Many companies make girdles for LS blocks...

 

I run an 89mm LS crank in my GSR motor. Don't call this combo "LS/VTEC". LS/VTEC is a LS block with a VTEC head. Calling a GSR block with an LS crank "LS/VTEC" is an insult.

I agree with everyone that the 1.8mm longer stroke over the GSR/ITR crank is minimal. But when your looking to squeeze every last drop of power out of your setup, this is for you. Bore your B18 block to 84 or 85mm and throw a LS crank in there and you get 2.0L. I probably wouldn't have bothered switching cranks but I spun a rod bearing so I was in the market for a new crank. And the LS crank is cheaper than a GSR or ITR crank and has all these small benefits.

A little known benefit of the LS crank is less rotational mass. The LS crank is half a pound lighter than the GSR crank and even lighter than the ITR crank. Just like taking half a pound out of your flywheel.

Also alot of people think you can't fit the VTEC oil squirters with a LS crank. Not always true. I still run my oil squirters. Only 1 had a clearance problem and I just had to file down the corner of the hex bolt.

If you go with another crank take it to an engine shop. Have it checked the journals checked out for roundness, get it rebalanced, magnafluxed, and micropolished. Should only cost you $150 but its good insurance. You will need new bearings too.

 

Good info! Well, I still have about 3 months before I have my GSR motor taken apart and sleeved. I still have time to think about it. I do want to be able to squeeze every bit of hp/tq I can out of my car but I don't see any need to change out my crank if my goals are obtainable with my GSR crank.

We'll see..... I'm looking for high torque and high hp.

Thanks for everyones reply!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Many companies make girdles for LS blocks...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i guarantee you that you will regret getting an aftermarket girdle...if those things are installed wrong which is like .00001 of an inch...ur bearings and fucked and ur motor is blown.

Its almost impossible to get those girdles installed like OEM

Oem is the ****