How does your welding setup look? (Table/clamps/etc.)
I was doing some more practice welding on the weekend and I find that when I'm welding up some 2.5" piping, not sure if I'm clamping/position it properly but I can only do a short run before I have to unclamp and go again. I would think there should be a better way of clamping piping so I can almost weld it all in 1 pass?
How do you guys setup your pieces for welding? Any pics?
I don't need to see the "top secret" jigs some might have but something to help me out.
Thanks.
How do you guys setup your pieces for welding? Any pics?
I don't need to see the "top secret" jigs some might have but something to help me out.
Thanks.
i am working on a table that rotated with the push of my unused foot that way i can push on my left foot and turn the tubing that way i can make 360 degree welds just use a winshield wiper motor from a civic on a steel round table on a bearing with the motor to push on the outer ring of the round table. in the center of a table have a fully adjustable vise to no mater the diamiter of the piec it can always be centerd.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cstay »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am working on a table that rotated with the push of my unused foot that way i can push on my left foot and turn the tubing that way i can make 360 degree welds just use a winshield wiper motor from a civic on a steel round table on a bearing with the motor to push on the outer ring of the round table. in the center of a table have a fully adjustable vise to no mater the diamiter of the piec it can always be centerd.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
just buy a potter's wheel - that thing you spin around and made clay pots with in art class
</TD></TR></TABLE>just buy a potter's wheel - that thing you spin around and made clay pots with in art class
I've used two pieces of wood on either side of a round piece of tubing. I weld it, then just push the wood with my filler rod hand. That way the tubing kind of rolls over slow. If you have the space, you can do an entire round tube in one pass.
With exhausts or something with bends though, I just usually have someone rotate it slow on my command so I can go through it. Depending on the goof who's holding it, it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't.
With exhausts or something with bends though, I just usually have someone rotate it slow on my command so I can go through it. Depending on the goof who's holding it, it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't.
I don't think that's 1 solid piece of steel..he's only for 4x4's holding it up.
Maybe wood top with thinner sheet metal formed around it?
Maybe wood top with thinner sheet metal formed around it?
For real. This is something that really frustrates me. I'd say I'm a desent welder but all the round piping is killing me. Are you guys "cheating" by having someone/something rotate the piping or do I just suck that bad?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Goullish »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
4' x 8' x 1/2" stainless, with a 1" x 1" tapped grid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If that ^ is what I think it is, then that guy has spent the mucho buck$

<FONT SIZE="4"> Is it me or are the pics getting huuuger-er!!!</FONT>
Modified by Laserjock at 11:32 PM 10/3/2005
4' x 8' x 1/2" stainless, with a 1" x 1" tapped grid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If that ^ is what I think it is, then that guy has spent the mucho buck$

<FONT SIZE="4"> Is it me or are the pics getting huuuger-er!!!</FONT>
Modified by Laserjock at 11:32 PM 10/3/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Laserjock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If that ^ is what I think it is, then that guy has spent the mucho buck$
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Close, but it's only 2 inches thick, we don't need the vibration damping of most optical tables. Also, that 1/2" should read 1/4", I just noticed that typo.
Double layered, with a .010 steel honeycomb inner.
Only downside is it is a BITCH! to clean out.
If that ^ is what I think it is, then that guy has spent the mucho buck$
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Close, but it's only 2 inches thick, we don't need the vibration damping of most optical tables. Also, that 1/2" should read 1/4", I just noticed that typo.
Double layered, with a .010 steel honeycomb inner.
Only downside is it is a BITCH! to clean out.
DAMN Goullish where would one get a table top like that?
That looks great to bolt down either some clamps, some jigs etc.
But I mean, if I had to drill that many holes then tap them I'd shoot myself.
Can one buy that or it has to be machined?
That looks great to bolt down either some clamps, some jigs etc.
But I mean, if I had to drill that many holes then tap them I'd shoot myself.

Can one buy that or it has to be machined?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jays91DXhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DAMN Goullish where would one get a table top like that?
That looks great to bolt down either some clamps, some jigs etc.
But I mean, if I had to drill that many holes then tap them I'd shoot myself.
Can one buy that or it has to be machined?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those are optical tables and they are veeery pricey. TMC and Edmunds Scientific are a couple of places...
That looks great to bolt down either some clamps, some jigs etc.
But I mean, if I had to drill that many holes then tap them I'd shoot myself.

Can one buy that or it has to be machined?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those are optical tables and they are veeery pricey. TMC and Edmunds Scientific are a couple of places...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Laserjock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Those are optical tables and they are veeery pricey. TMC and Edmunds Scientific are a couple of places...</TD></TR></TABLE>
TMC has very good breadboards like ours, they also carry smaller sizes, I think you can get a nice one that is 2'x2'.
Of course, the going rate for a TMC board the size of ours = $3825.00, non-custom, without legs or supports.
We got ours used several years ago.
Those are optical tables and they are veeery pricey. TMC and Edmunds Scientific are a couple of places...</TD></TR></TABLE>
TMC has very good breadboards like ours, they also carry smaller sizes, I think you can get a nice one that is 2'x2'.
Of course, the going rate for a TMC board the size of ours = $3825.00, non-custom, without legs or supports.
We got ours used several years ago.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Javier »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just use your hands
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a third arm positioner with the thumb attachment. i knew ours was missing something
PhoenixTurboRick says "Don't ask, don't tell!!"
</TD></TR></TABLE>a third arm positioner with the thumb attachment. i knew ours was missing something
PhoenixTurboRick says "Don't ask, don't tell!!"
YIKES!! That's a lot of money.
I think I'll stick to getting a steel top and drilling holes myself for what I need..lol I thought $250 for 1/4 inch steel top was a lot..
I think I'll stick to getting a steel top and drilling holes myself for what I need..lol I thought $250 for 1/4 inch steel top was a lot..
old welding table...
new welding table... both are 3'x5'... new one with a 1" plate for a top

and my 8" wilton! (and the best part about it... it was free!... well thanks to the local abandoned mental hospital who kindly "donated" it...lol) this is when i first got it... it has seen been glass beadedn is practically brand new...

new welding table... both are 3'x5'... new one with a 1" plate for a top

and my 8" wilton! (and the best part about it... it was free!... well thanks to the local abandoned mental hospital who kindly "donated" it...lol) this is when i first got it... it has seen been glass beadedn is practically brand new...




