Serious braking problems SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!!!!!
ok so heres the deal ... i put on fresh pads and rotors bled the whole brake system according to the honda guidelines and its still doing it ... but now since everything is new i can look at the rotors to tell which one is grabbing the most ... the passanger side wheel is grabbing ... and damn good at that might i add ... it will pull me to that side if i brake hard enough..... the driver side wheel we ... looks like it is barely touching at all...
Then on top of all that you have to push the brake pedal about 2 inches to get any sort of braking action or response ... sometimes i can feel it at a red light the pedal will sink a lil bit after its been sitting there for a miinute ... other times ... no problems at all ... the fluid in the reservoir is still the same ... so what do you guys think ??? what could be my issues... Other then me having no life lol
Any advice will be greatly appreciated .... thanks fellas
Then on top of all that you have to push the brake pedal about 2 inches to get any sort of braking action or response ... sometimes i can feel it at a red light the pedal will sink a lil bit after its been sitting there for a miinute ... other times ... no problems at all ... the fluid in the reservoir is still the same ... so what do you guys think ??? what could be my issues... Other then me having no life lol
Any advice will be greatly appreciated .... thanks fellas
no brake expert here, but maybe it's something with your proprting vavles, and the other one MC? maybe something is wrong with your calipers? Once again, these are ideas.. i'm no brake expert
if you didnt have the problem before then its something that happened during the install/ bad pedal pressure after brakes install, is usually a good sign of incorrect bleeding, easy way to tell there is no air in lines, use like a vacume line, put on brake bleeder and let it hang into a cup of brake fluid when you open bleeder to push air out you can watch too see if theres any bubbles just watch the cup, no bubbles no air.
Look around for any fluid on that side. Doesnt have to be much just very little. It could be a small hole that it doesnt spew until you actually press, so no air goes in.
If its not that then next i would look at the prop valve. Although theres not much you could do but get another one.
If its not that then next i would look at the prop valve. Although theres not much you could do but get another one.
If your front brakes are uneven and you pull to the right under braking, I recommend checking your LEFT caliper.
It sounds like your caliper piston is binding or stuck, preventing it from applying the correct (balanced) pressure to the pads/rotors. This will make it seem like your right brake is working more, when it just might be that your left one isn't working at all.
Also check the rubber seals for cracks or rotting. The Caliper Pin Boots and Caliper Piston Seal can be easily inspected visually. If you have damaged seals, it might explain your increased pedal travel. Autozone, Pepboys, etc. might be able to order the seal kits you need, but they might not have them in stock.
You must also make sure that your piston is seated properly. If it is skewed, it will have problems going in/out of the caliper bore, which could lead to the symptoms you experience. Unfortunately, the front caliper doesn't allow for a simple "screwing" into place as does the rear caliper. It might be a good idea to invest $5-10 on a C-clamp that is near the size of your caliper piston, and use it to help re-mount your caliper & pads.
Finally, do a thorough search on bench bleeding as well as the full bleeding process. It seems to solve a lot of problems many people encounter.
Other than that, stay careful and always get stuff checked out if you have doubts.
JasonGhostz
It sounds like your caliper piston is binding or stuck, preventing it from applying the correct (balanced) pressure to the pads/rotors. This will make it seem like your right brake is working more, when it just might be that your left one isn't working at all.
Also check the rubber seals for cracks or rotting. The Caliper Pin Boots and Caliper Piston Seal can be easily inspected visually. If you have damaged seals, it might explain your increased pedal travel. Autozone, Pepboys, etc. might be able to order the seal kits you need, but they might not have them in stock.
You must also make sure that your piston is seated properly. If it is skewed, it will have problems going in/out of the caliper bore, which could lead to the symptoms you experience. Unfortunately, the front caliper doesn't allow for a simple "screwing" into place as does the rear caliper. It might be a good idea to invest $5-10 on a C-clamp that is near the size of your caliper piston, and use it to help re-mount your caliper & pads.
Finally, do a thorough search on bench bleeding as well as the full bleeding process. It seems to solve a lot of problems many people encounter.
Other than that, stay careful and always get stuff checked out if you have doubts.
JasonGhostz
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



