DIY: Repairing damaged head stud hole threads
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DIY: Repairing damaged head stud hole threads
After stripping 5 head stud holes in my block i decided my best option would be to get TimeSerts new D16 kit. They just created this kit specifically for head studs holes in d-series engines. The size is M10x1.25. It comes with 10 inserts. It cost me $380 and got it from TimeSert since they are the only ones that have it. Its too new for any of their distributors to have them in stock.
For me, buying this kit was my best option. Otherwise i would have to buy a engine lift and then take the block out and take to a machine shop. Much easier and faster to use the timeserts. The cost of them may be high but im planning on selling the kit cheap so i can make some of my money back.
This kit is FAR superior than Helicoils. These inserts will actually be stronger than the stock threads. It was real easy to use and they work great. This is what actual machine shops use. For more info goto http://www.timesert.com This complete kit is also for sale here..best offer..https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1393720
/plug
Here are some shots of the kit.
1) Start by placing the drill fixture on the block and then place the drill centering tool into the hole that needs to be repaired. Once it is centered, hold down on it and tighten the drill fixture bolts. Now everything from here on out will go striaght square in the hole.
2) Place the drill bushing into the hole. Then place duct tape around the area so no shavings get into the cylinders.
3) Drill out the hole with the custom 2 step drill bit. It has a stop collar on it so just go all the way down until it hits the bushing. The kit also comes with another collar to place on the bit for that one shallow hole on d series blocks.
4) Vacuum all the shavings out real good and then blow it out. (yes, thats a ghost)
5) Next grab the tap and spray some wd-40 on it.
6) Start threading it in the hole. Notice there are two lines on the tap. You will want to stop threading once the top line meets the top of the drill bushing. The bottom line is for the shallow hole. Once you're finished with that, you will want to spray a bunch of brake cleaner in the hole and then vacuum all the shavings out real good.
7) Grab the insert and oil the inside threads of it real good.
8) Grab the insert driver and thread the insert on it a little bit.
9) Apply some loctite to the outside threads of the insert. You will just want a little bit on the bottom half of the insert because once you drive it in, it will all work itself out through the top.
10) You will want to take the drill fixture off for this next step. I forgot to do that for the picture. You will then want to thread the insert into hole using the driver. Once you get it almost all the way in, you will feel it start to get harder to thread in there. Thats because the driver is locking the insert into the block. Thread it all the way down until the top line on the driver is flush with the block surface. Bottom line if you are repairing the shallow hole.
Finished product
Thats it! You're finished. Happy boosting
Modified by mike93eh at 2:57 PM 10/19/2005
Modified by mike93eh at 9:01 PM 12/28/2005
For me, buying this kit was my best option. Otherwise i would have to buy a engine lift and then take the block out and take to a machine shop. Much easier and faster to use the timeserts. The cost of them may be high but im planning on selling the kit cheap so i can make some of my money back.
This kit is FAR superior than Helicoils. These inserts will actually be stronger than the stock threads. It was real easy to use and they work great. This is what actual machine shops use. For more info goto http://www.timesert.com This complete kit is also for sale here..best offer..https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1393720
/plug
Here are some shots of the kit.
1) Start by placing the drill fixture on the block and then place the drill centering tool into the hole that needs to be repaired. Once it is centered, hold down on it and tighten the drill fixture bolts. Now everything from here on out will go striaght square in the hole.
2) Place the drill bushing into the hole. Then place duct tape around the area so no shavings get into the cylinders.
3) Drill out the hole with the custom 2 step drill bit. It has a stop collar on it so just go all the way down until it hits the bushing. The kit also comes with another collar to place on the bit for that one shallow hole on d series blocks.
4) Vacuum all the shavings out real good and then blow it out. (yes, thats a ghost)
5) Next grab the tap and spray some wd-40 on it.
6) Start threading it in the hole. Notice there are two lines on the tap. You will want to stop threading once the top line meets the top of the drill bushing. The bottom line is for the shallow hole. Once you're finished with that, you will want to spray a bunch of brake cleaner in the hole and then vacuum all the shavings out real good.
7) Grab the insert and oil the inside threads of it real good.
8) Grab the insert driver and thread the insert on it a little bit.
9) Apply some loctite to the outside threads of the insert. You will just want a little bit on the bottom half of the insert because once you drive it in, it will all work itself out through the top.
10) You will want to take the drill fixture off for this next step. I forgot to do that for the picture. You will then want to thread the insert into hole using the driver. Once you get it almost all the way in, you will feel it start to get harder to thread in there. Thats because the driver is locking the insert into the block. Thread it all the way down until the top line on the driver is flush with the block surface. Bottom line if you are repairing the shallow hole.
Finished product
Thats it! You're finished. Happy boosting
Modified by mike93eh at 2:57 PM 10/19/2005
Modified by mike93eh at 9:01 PM 12/28/2005
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From: Hiboosta, IL, USA
Re: DIY: Repairing damaged head stud hole threads (Laserjock)
ROFL, You have to just be waiting for me to respond Mike. Anyway I'm glad you're getting it taken care of, get that thing on the road.
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From: PA, US
Re: DIY: Repairing damaged head stud hole threads (mike93eh)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After stripping 5 head stud holes in my block i decided my best option would be to get TimeSerts new D16 kit. It cost me $380 and got it from TimeSert since they are the only ones that have it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had 3 headstuds pull threads out of the block on my B series. I really didn't want to use a helicoil or some other type of repair on a headstud. So I went against everyone telling me the timesert was the way to go. After some researching...a $80 ARP 1/2" headstud kit and $200 worth of machine work fixed my problem the best way. Something to think about when running into this problem. Not that timeserts aren't good. But $380 just for the kit seams a bit pricey. I mean if it saves the block than yea it's good. I just chose to go with bigger studs due to the fact that my engine will be seeing a fair amout of boost (upward of 25psi).
Good thread tho for the ones needing to do the timesert
I had 3 headstuds pull threads out of the block on my B series. I really didn't want to use a helicoil or some other type of repair on a headstud. So I went against everyone telling me the timesert was the way to go. After some researching...a $80 ARP 1/2" headstud kit and $200 worth of machine work fixed my problem the best way. Something to think about when running into this problem. Not that timeserts aren't good. But $380 just for the kit seams a bit pricey. I mean if it saves the block than yea it's good. I just chose to go with bigger studs due to the fact that my engine will be seeing a fair amout of boost (upward of 25psi).
Good thread tho for the ones needing to do the timesert
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Re: DIY: Repairing damaged head stud hole threads (ScottEK)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScottEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ROFL, You have to just be waiting for me to respond Mike. Anyway I'm glad you're getting it taken care of, get that thing on the road.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you were right i was wrong.. oh well. im just glad this thing is running good now
you were right i was wrong.. oh well. im just glad this thing is running good now
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From: Irvine, CA, usa
Re: DIY: Repairing damaged head stud hole threads (mike93eh)
nice write up.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 80884 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I had 3 headstuds pull threads out of the block on my B series. I really didn't want to use a helicoil or some other type of repair on a headstud. So I went against everyone telling me the timesert was the way to go. After some researching...a $80 ARP 1/2" headstud kit and $200 worth of machine work fixed my problem the best way. Something to think about when running into this problem. Not that timeserts aren't good. But $380 just for the kit seams a bit pricey. I mean if it saves the block than yea it's good. I just chose to go with bigger studs due to the fact that my engine will be seeing a fair amout of boost (upward of 25psi).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Could you please expand on this? How was the block modified to accept 1/2" studs? How was the head modified to accept 1/2" studs? And last, where did you find 1/2" ARP head studs for only $80 for 10 of them?
I had 3 headstuds pull threads out of the block on my B series. I really didn't want to use a helicoil or some other type of repair on a headstud. So I went against everyone telling me the timesert was the way to go. After some researching...a $80 ARP 1/2" headstud kit and $200 worth of machine work fixed my problem the best way. Something to think about when running into this problem. Not that timeserts aren't good. But $380 just for the kit seams a bit pricey. I mean if it saves the block than yea it's good. I just chose to go with bigger studs due to the fact that my engine will be seeing a fair amout of boost (upward of 25psi).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Could you please expand on this? How was the block modified to accept 1/2" studs? How was the head modified to accept 1/2" studs? And last, where did you find 1/2" ARP head studs for only $80 for 10 of them?
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From: Tallahassee, FL, US
Re: DIY: Repairing damaged head stud hole threads (earl)
I did the .5" stud mod in my block. AEBS did the machine work on the block when they sleeved it. cant remember the kit number, it is for an aluminum svo ford block. stud pn is ar7.125-1u and is 1/2-13 thread on the block side and -20 on the nut side(i think). i drilled the head for the studs myself. i used a good drill press, set it PERFECTLY 90 degrees from the stud holes and drilled it to 17/32 which allowed the .5" studs a nice snug fit without being too big or too small.
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From: Toronto, ON, Canada
Re: DIY: Repairing damaged head stud hole threads (earl)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Could you please expand on this? How was the block modified to accept 1/2" studs? How was the head modified to accept 1/2" studs? And last, where did you find 1/2" ARP head studs for only $80 for 10 of them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Seems you're saying it can't be done...without really saying it. Hmmmm. I'd agree about the $80 studs, but otherwise... Seems you'd lose a bit of thickess to the oil and coolant passages, but it still seems pretty safe for the pressures in these openings. Maybe the next bandwagon for the 600+ crowd...
Could you please expand on this? How was the block modified to accept 1/2" studs? How was the head modified to accept 1/2" studs? And last, where did you find 1/2" ARP head studs for only $80 for 10 of them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Seems you're saying it can't be done...without really saying it. Hmmmm. I'd agree about the $80 studs, but otherwise... Seems you'd lose a bit of thickess to the oil and coolant passages, but it still seems pretty safe for the pressures in these openings. Maybe the next bandwagon for the 600+ crowd...
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From: PA, US
Re: DIY: Repairing damaged head stud hole threads (earl)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice write up.
Could you please expand on this? How was the block modified to accept 1/2" studs? How was the head modified to accept 1/2" studs? And last, where did you find 1/2" ARP head studs for only $80 for 10 of them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I took the block to my machinist, took the stud kit to him and took the head. He drilled the current head stud holes larger, retapped them for the 1/2 studs. Installed the studs. ok next....how am I going to get 1/2" studs to fit through the headgasket? simple...carefully enlarge the holes in the head gasket to fit over the studs (I used die grinder). Not all holes needed to be enlarged. Ok now the studs are in and the headgasket fits. Oh **** forgot to mention he also made custom dowels by drilling slightly larger on two of the block holes (and the head but we will get to that later). Ok, studs in, headgasket on dowels in. Next drilled the holes in the head to fit the studs and also countersink for dowles. Head fits on block now. Tricky part, didn't use the washers in the 1/2" kit cuz this would require more material removed from head for them to sit flush, so i used the smaller washers from the original kit and had him drill the center to fit on the 1/2" stud. Thats pretty much it. Of course i left out all of the obvious steps envolved but thats how I got the studs in the block. I may be a little off on the price of the stud kit. I do however know the total cost of kit and machine work was $280. All of the work was done by a very good machinist.
I'm not the only one with the larger headstuds. Someone on here actually gave me the idea to do it.
Could you please expand on this? How was the block modified to accept 1/2" studs? How was the head modified to accept 1/2" studs? And last, where did you find 1/2" ARP head studs for only $80 for 10 of them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I took the block to my machinist, took the stud kit to him and took the head. He drilled the current head stud holes larger, retapped them for the 1/2 studs. Installed the studs. ok next....how am I going to get 1/2" studs to fit through the headgasket? simple...carefully enlarge the holes in the head gasket to fit over the studs (I used die grinder). Not all holes needed to be enlarged. Ok now the studs are in and the headgasket fits. Oh **** forgot to mention he also made custom dowels by drilling slightly larger on two of the block holes (and the head but we will get to that later). Ok, studs in, headgasket on dowels in. Next drilled the holes in the head to fit the studs and also countersink for dowles. Head fits on block now. Tricky part, didn't use the washers in the 1/2" kit cuz this would require more material removed from head for them to sit flush, so i used the smaller washers from the original kit and had him drill the center to fit on the 1/2" stud. Thats pretty much it. Of course i left out all of the obvious steps envolved but thats how I got the studs in the block. I may be a little off on the price of the stud kit. I do however know the total cost of kit and machine work was $280. All of the work was done by a very good machinist.
I'm not the only one with the larger headstuds. Someone on here actually gave me the idea to do it.
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Re: DIY: Repairing damaged head stud hole threads (smokey2.0)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokey2.0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what if you damage the hole while doing the threads, do they sell a bigger insert?</TD></TR></TABLE>
kinda hard to damage them but they do make big-serts
BIG-SERT® will repair oversize holes which have previously been repaired.
http://www.timesert.com/html/bigsert.html
kinda hard to damage them but they do make big-serts
BIG-SERT® will repair oversize holes which have previously been repaired.
http://www.timesert.com/html/bigsert.html
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From: PSL, florida, us
Re: DIY: Repairing damaged head stud hole threads (mike93eh)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
kinda hard to damage them but they do make big-serts
BIG-SERT® will repair oversize holes which have previously been repaired.
http://www.timesert.com/html/bigsert.html</TD></TR></TABLE>
thankx for the info, a friend of mine did it. but i will double check your instructions, to see if he just misread them! if not, bigsert it is!
kinda hard to damage them but they do make big-serts
BIG-SERT® will repair oversize holes which have previously been repaired.
http://www.timesert.com/html/bigsert.html</TD></TR></TABLE>
thankx for the info, a friend of mine did it. but i will double check your instructions, to see if he just misread them! if not, bigsert it is!
Joined: May 2005
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From: Simi Valley, CA, USA
Re: DIY: Repairing damaged head stud hole threads (80884)
$380, ouch. You can buy a fresh block and get it bored/honed/hottanked for a total of $250.
But then again, I guess it's not very practical to pull the motor and spend 2 weeks rebuilding it when you can just leave it in and fix it in a day.
But then again, I guess it's not very practical to pull the motor and spend 2 weeks rebuilding it when you can just leave it in and fix it in a day.
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Re: DIY: Repairing damaged head stud hole threads (EnzoSpeed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$380, ouch. You can buy a fresh block and get it bored/honed/hottanked for a total of $250.
But then again, I guess it's not very practical to pull the motor and spend 2 weeks rebuilding it when you can just leave it in and fix it in a day.</TD></TR></TABLE>
like i said earlier, that may be true. but for me this was my best option. i live in missouri not cali. i would have to buy a block probably from cali and have it shipped here $$$$ then i would have to buy a engine lift and stand $$$$$ and spend a shitload more time doing all that..
and i was hoping on selling it on here to someone for alot cheaper. maybe like the price of a new block.
But then again, I guess it's not very practical to pull the motor and spend 2 weeks rebuilding it when you can just leave it in and fix it in a day.</TD></TR></TABLE>
like i said earlier, that may be true. but for me this was my best option. i live in missouri not cali. i would have to buy a block probably from cali and have it shipped here $$$$ then i would have to buy a engine lift and stand $$$$$ and spend a shitload more time doing all that..
and i was hoping on selling it on here to someone for alot cheaper. maybe like the price of a new block.
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From: Tolland, CT, USA
When I striped a couple of threads in our daily driver, the machine shop put time-serts in back in late May of this year. While they were torquing the head the short one (#8) spun in the block. They had to get a insert (larger diameter) that fits a Toyota and get the proper Toyota head bolt and cut the head to make everything fit. That was over 10,000 miles ago, everything is still holding together. They have done this job on lots of car for the local car dealers so they knew what to expect and how to cope with problems. I think it only cost about $400.00.
