is there a step by step procedure for swapping my b16 into my eg hatch?
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From: romeoville, IL, united states
is there a step by step procedure for swapping my b16 into my eg hatch?
is there a step by step procedure for swapping my b16a into my eg hatch? if there is.. can someone give me it?
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From: 49.4900N 96.8833W
Re: is there a step by step procedure for swapping my b16 into my eg hatch? (jdmjoelol)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmjoelol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there a step by step procedure for swapping my b16a into my eg hatch? if there is.. can someone give me it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
1) Remove old motor.
2) Install gutless 1.6L.
1) Remove old motor.
2) Install gutless 1.6L.
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: 49.4900N 96.8833W
Re: is there a step by step procedure for swapping my b16 into my eg hatch? (transpar_nt)
Seriously though, its really very simple. It looks like a confusing pile of dogshit at first, but its all pretty simple and straight forward. There's just a bunch of little things. There isn't any particular order in which to do anything really, just start disconnecting everything until only the mounts are connected. If you run into any problems with a particular task, then ask. It's a lot easier to answer 50 straight forward questions than 1 super vague one. Here's some tips to help you out cuz I'm a bored loser with nothing better to do at 2:30 saturday night:
1) Remove the engine with the shift linkage still attached. The bitch pin holding it to the tranny is the hardest part of the swap. Hard to remove while under the car (unless you have a hoist, in which case eat ****), but easy-ish to remove once the engine is out and you have ample BFH swinging room.
2) Only disconnect stuff that is physically attached to the engine, as the other junk is much easier to remove (if need be) once the engine is out. For example, disconnect the steering pump from the block, but leave all of the lines attached.
3) To disconnect the fuel lines without spraying a shitload of gas all over your face, first relieve the pressure. Disconnect the fuel cap, and then loosen the little bolt that's on one of the banjo fittings on the fuel filter case. Only a drop or two will drip out and you'll save yourself the embarassment of looking like a dumbass.
4) The banjo bolts on the fuel filter strip easily. If you only use one non-shitty tool for the whole swap, use it here. A good (not sears good) flarenut wrench will save the day.
5) The 32mm axle nuts can be a bitch to get off. A good breaker bar with a snipe and a fat dude hanging off the end will do it. Or, if you're roommate owns half of Snap-on's inventory like mine does, a impact gun is easier.
6) When you bolt everything back on make sure it is all torque'd to specs. Tighter isn't better...
Here are the two threads I used:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=131949
and in more detail for the axles:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=382564
Installation is obviously the reverse of removal. For troubleshooting (if you need it) just ask specific questions when the need arises.
Hope that helps somewhat
EDIT: this is assuming you've got all the right parts together.
1) Remove the engine with the shift linkage still attached. The bitch pin holding it to the tranny is the hardest part of the swap. Hard to remove while under the car (unless you have a hoist, in which case eat ****), but easy-ish to remove once the engine is out and you have ample BFH swinging room.
2) Only disconnect stuff that is physically attached to the engine, as the other junk is much easier to remove (if need be) once the engine is out. For example, disconnect the steering pump from the block, but leave all of the lines attached.
3) To disconnect the fuel lines without spraying a shitload of gas all over your face, first relieve the pressure. Disconnect the fuel cap, and then loosen the little bolt that's on one of the banjo fittings on the fuel filter case. Only a drop or two will drip out and you'll save yourself the embarassment of looking like a dumbass.
4) The banjo bolts on the fuel filter strip easily. If you only use one non-shitty tool for the whole swap, use it here. A good (not sears good) flarenut wrench will save the day.
5) The 32mm axle nuts can be a bitch to get off. A good breaker bar with a snipe and a fat dude hanging off the end will do it. Or, if you're roommate owns half of Snap-on's inventory like mine does, a impact gun is easier.
6) When you bolt everything back on make sure it is all torque'd to specs. Tighter isn't better...
Here are the two threads I used:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=131949
and in more detail for the axles:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=382564
Installation is obviously the reverse of removal. For troubleshooting (if you need it) just ask specific questions when the need arises.
Hope that helps somewhat
EDIT: this is assuming you've got all the right parts together.
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