quick question.. i have a full jdm type R swap

only mods to the motor are intake/header/exhaust...

i have an oppertunity to get a vafc for $100

would you say they are worth it for my mild amount of mods?

easy to program/tune?

I would great appreciate any feedback..

also im missing my ashtray so it will fill the hole nicely

thanks
Chris

 

$100? I say yes its worth it.

 

if u are going very minimal on the mods then i would say go for it, it is very limited though, cause it runs off the stock fuel maps of the car, and can only be altered to some extent so keep that in mind.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type_gsR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">quick question.. i have a full jdm type R swap

only mods to the motor are intake/header/exhaust...

i have an oppertunity to get a vafc for $100

would you say they are worth it for my mild amount of mods?

easy to program/tune?

I would great appreciate any feedback..

also im missing my ashtray so it will fill the hole nicely

thanks
Chris
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Your just like me. JDM itr i/h/e and i bought a vafc2, but i still don't know if it's worth putting it. I have chipped p-28.

 

Stock ITR ECU no VAFC I/H/E =

Stock ITR ECU + VAFC ($100) + I/H/E and no Wide band O2/Air fuel gauge = worse than stock ECU (because it will always change with the weather/elevation and make you run too lean or too rich, and if you dont have a good Air Fuel gauge to know how your running then you are just guessing and that is worse than stock!)

Stock ITR ECU + VAFC ($100) + I/H/E and Wide band O2/Air fuel gauge ($400) = a pain in the *** cause any time the elevation/pressure/temp changes you have to mess with the VAFC settings to keep it within Stoich!

Either buy the VAFC for a Vtec point adjustment and a gauge or just save the $$ and buy somthing that you can get tuned once on a dyno and leave it alone!

 

I have VAFC just for monitoring now. I went HONDATA u should do the same. Much more flexibility should u mod it more later.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock ITR ECU no VAFC I/H/E =

Stock ITR ECU + VAFC ($100) + I/H/E and no Wide band O2/Air fuel gauge = worse than stock ECU (because it will always change with the weather/elevation and make you run too lean or too rich, and if you dont have a good Air Fuel gauge to know how your running then you are just guessing and that is worse than stock!)

Stock ITR ECU + VAFC ($100) + I/H/E and Wide band O2/Air fuel gauge ($400) = a pain in the *** cause any time the elevation/pressure/temp changes you have to mess with the VAFC settings to keep it within Stoich!

Either buy the VAFC for a Vtec point adjustment and a gauge or just save the $$ and buy somthing that you can get tuned once on a dyno and leave it alone!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the info i have an AF gauge, but sounds like a hassle

and my dizzy just went out