Firstly I usually thus don't speak English, I will try to make my the better as possible

I have a serious problem with my idle and here the base of my setup to start :


B16A2
Throttle 65mm
Intake Manifold Aebs
Head P&P and rectified cylinder head
Camshaft CTR
Header Mugen 4-1
Exhaust stainless 2 1/2
Ecu Spoon P30 JDM (real complete ecu not chips)


For my problem of idle I have to check and change this :

TPS position 0.45V
IACV cleaned and functional
FITV checked --> ok
New PCV valve
New Cap Rotor and rotor
New Battery
O2 sensor changed by other one used O2 sensor
Coolant purge many time
checking for a leak of air... no leak
New Spark plug
Idle regulate with the way of the Honda workshop
7 New ground of wiring sound large diameter
compression of cylinders checked

result :



( the compression is in BAR not PSI )


And finally after all its checks and change the problem still here..


Here my symptoms :

When I start my engine it take his choke with difficulty, I would say once on three it take.

When the engine is hot there tries to remain regular at the idle but it does not arrive, then it starts has to fall and make up and down

When the engine is hot with the idle, if I put the headlights my idle fall and like up and down, the same thing when the fan starts

When I run and I stop at the lights my engine stall every time

During the test of compression we noticed that the spark plug was completely black, however it's new and has that some weeks..

Thus the engine turns too much rich to the idle, when the car runs the mixture becomes very good

Thus it is only with the idle..

A friend and me let us have thus to think of fuel presses regulator could be defective.

So, I have order a new fuel pressure regulator but adjustable

It is here that that becomes interesting...

I have adjust the regulator at + - 35 psi, my idle is always also bad but the car runs very very well

Thus I have decrease the pressure to see the difference with the idle.

The idle is to stabilize to 10 psi, the idle was very very perfect, even when I lit the headlights or when the fan started, really very good idle, I had ever had it as well. But when the car runs, they is very bad the car do much failure and does not make power.

Thus to summarize, when I decrease the pressure of the gasoline the mixture is good and when I increase the pressure the mixture is too rich.

thus only the explanations which appears logical it to me is when the regulator is at 35 psi, at the idle the engine does not have enough air what causes a too rich mixture.

I think that, a sensor should be defective and would prevent the IACV to provide the air necessary to the idle ( In particular the sensor of water T° )

I make a point of specifying that the ECU does not indicate any code error

I would like that you deliver your opinion to me on my problem


thank you very much for your help


Modified by Fabulous Vtec at 8:49 PM 9/21/2005


Modified by Fabulous Vtec at 8:50 PM 9/21/2005

 

ttt

 

What about the MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure)? Check if that's working OK.

It seems like the FPR is not working. That's strange since you just got a new one...

Fuel pressure should be lower at idle, higher at load. Do you use a fuel pressure gauge? Watch the fuel pressure rise with throttle, & back down when idling. Verify that it's doing that.

 

today I have check the engine again, and I have find two things

The first,

I have check the sensor coolant temp, I have to measure it and at hot engine my sensor gives only 40 ohms ( regular is 200~400 ohms )

The second,

I have find a small leak from the iacv, I have pulverize with gas and it passes slightly in the iacv

Now I will start by changing the sensor coolant temp, and the complete iacv too

also, I have one IM AEBS and I can put a iacv B16A2 or B18C because I have the holes for the bolts

but a iacv OBD2 can go with a ECU OBD1??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fabulous Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but a iacv OBD2 can go with a ECU OBD1??</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm not sure but I think that will NOT work.

Can you just fix the leak in your IACV? Fix it temporary with some tape or ?? Then if that solves your problem you can get the correct IACV.

 

yes but, it's difficult to stop with tape because the access is difficult, can be with other thing. But I will start by changing the sensor coolant temp,and I will change the iacv too because it's extremely possible that it would be defective..