after my skunk2 mani install, i am leaking fluid and vacuum from the gasket now...time to put in a new one...just wondering if it was worth it to upgrade if you are turboed?...anyone have input on this

also, if i dont end up using the HD one, are the kragen IMG just as good as the oem ones?

 

I would upgrade, as it will help slightly to keep the Intake temps as low as can be, since the will be heated up from the turbo anyways. I would probably get something like profab though instead of paying another 20 bucks just for the name. Plus they are very reusable which helps if ever switching to an edlebrock or something

 

would i have to change the studs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmGSR916 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would i have to change the studs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no</TD></TR></TABLE>

can anyone else confirm this?

with the s2 mani the studs are already pretty short...they dont come all the way through the bolt

 

no changing of studs

 

anyone using it with turbo setup and noticed a difference?

 

I got the password jdm one, seems to b of good quality. I'll let you know how it runs in a few weeks when my car is done. You can get them from dfoxengr and they are less expensive than the hondata ones.

 

Doesnt coolant still run to the IM though? I dont think there is any point in spending the extra cash on it... get a regular gasket, the "upgrade" is not likely to do anything for you.

 

I got it and paired with my skunk2 manifold the top middle nut wouldnt thread on but with all the others in it seals up just fine. as for a difference I havent dynod since the install of the manifold and gasket. but I can tell you that the manifold is cooler to the touch than before.

 

im alos intrested in this. i know that AIR intake manifold make alot more power than even an edelbrock soley because they cool the intake air. so there is definatly power to be gained this way.

 

im running a skunk2 mani w/ a ar-fab gasket and i had to get longer bolts...only way it would work...cant say it does much but it help out a bit when i was n/a...now that im boostid 1 pass in boost and its fairly hot...

 

I am running the Hondata intake mani gasket on my car and you can tell a big difference in the temps...... something also of people dont know though is you should make a gasket type ring for the nuts on the intake manifold (kinda hard to explain) but when you tighten the nuts down it is still going to transfer heat from the bolts in the head....

 

I am running it on my boosted b16. Also bypassed the FITV and blocked off the other coolant lines. Only coolant running through is thermostat housing to IACV then back to block. So only heat the manifold will be getting, is from the ICV itself being amtted to manifold. Youca ng et the gaskets for those too btu I didn't bother. Not sure if it helps or not, but when the IM is cool to the touch then you know it's donig something. And all my OE studs worked fine

 

My intake temps dropped like 30 degrees right off the bat.
Id say its worth it.
Plus never needs to be replaced. for that alone makes it worth it

 

wow...guess imma get one then...is there a difference between the hondadata one, profab, password jdm, etc?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedEG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I something also of people dont know though is you should make a gasket type ring for the nuts on the intake manifold (kinda hard to explain) but when you tighten the nuts down it is still going to transfer heat from the bolts in the head.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

but the amount of heat transferred to the im through 9? little nuts is next to nothing compared the surface area of the intake manifold that bolts to the head. so i personally would not waste my time doing so.

 

idk about blocking heat but i do know its reusable so its worth every penny. Ive reused mine like 7 times so far and have had no issues with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tchleung &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am running it on my boosted b16. Also bypassed the FITV and blocked off the other coolant lines. Only coolant running through is thermostat housing to IACV then back to block. So only heat the manifold will be getting, is from the ICV itself being amtted to manifold. Youca ng et the gaskets for those too btu I didn't bother. Not sure if it helps or not, but when the IM is cool to the touch then you know it's donig something. And all my OE studs worked fine</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya i forgot to mention i have plastic spacers between the nuts & studs w/ washers...hence the reason i needed bigger bolts...it still heat soaks like a **** tho

 

anyone want to post where you can get the with the best prices?

 

I dont buy that this actually helps drop temps, the price isnt bad since it is reusable but as far as this actually dropping temp seems unrealistic to me. I've installed this thing and I cant say I noticed a real drop... but then again i didnt pay for it, so maybe i didnt "try" to notice a difference?

Anyone actually have something logged to prove that it dropped manifold temps?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93preludes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont buy that this actually helps drop temps, the price isnt bad since it is reusable but as far as this actually dropping temp seems unrealistic to me. I've installed this thing and I cant say I noticed a real drop... but then again i didnt pay for it, so maybe i didnt "try" to notice a difference?

Anyone actually have something logged to prove that it dropped manifold temps?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hrmm the basic laws of thermo dynamics cant be too wrong. dual pane and triple pane glass windows probably dont do much for keeping heat in/cold out for your house either right?

Fouriers's law of conduction

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downeyballz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone want to post where you can get the with the best prices?</TD></TR></TABLE>

just ordered the profab from camp for 34 bucks shipped

 

I never changed the studs when installing mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by monicle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hrmm the basic laws of thermo dynamics cant be too wrong. dual pane and triple pane glass windows probably dont do much for keeping heat in/cold out for your house either right?

Fouriers's law of conduction </TD></TR></TABLE>

I can see the theory behind it and it seems like it might work but there are too many variables. I personally think it's a waste... until someone can pull some logs for it and actually show that it works.