I'm looking to have the block built - consuming more oil than Im comfortable with at this point. The top has been done with skunk 2 stg 2 cams, cam gears, valves, retainers, intake (not pro) with hondata s200. My goal is apprx 200-220whp - daily driver. Do I need to overbore and if so to what? 220 whp aside, longevity/reliability is my main concern. Are there brands with which people have had good results? Are there brands to stay away from? Is blueprinting and or balancing of rotational assembly are necessary or do they factor in in terms of reliability/longevity of the block? Your input is most appreciated.

 

well my motor is completly done fully ballenced with itbs and stage 3 crowers ported head and it only puts down 222whp and its not a daily driver it has no power low end

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1364469
this guy right here has a pretty simple setup

i say just stick with OEM internals for the bottom end. prolly wouldn't go over 81.25mm or 81.50mm if you plan on boring. hope this helps you out bro

 

are you against sleeving?

going 84+mm makes SUCH a big difference over 81...beeelieve me

a cheaper way would be to get a b20 block, eagle rods, and +2cc weisco shelf stocks...makes for a perfectly relieable/dependable daily driver, and you avoid the cost of sleeving! you can run stock bore or overbore and be great....and you also get the benifit of an 89mm crank!

a recently done block did 216/147 on RLZ's dynapack using the aforementioned shortblock with RLZ valve train and RLZ 3 cams, no headwork and this was with a shitty JDM DC header and 60mm exhuast

 

blueprinting and balancing is the key to dependability. if you dont get the bottom end balanced then over time you can kiss yer motor goodbye. also, without balancing theres no way of high revving the motor without bad consequences.

 

For all those that have taken the time to post, thank you.

I have considered sticking with stock internals; costs would be significantly less but if the block is coming apart anyways why not go bigger. I am not against sleeving. There is a guy locally that is selling his built b20 block with approx 40000Km (some of that on the dragstrip): JE pistons, IB wiseco rings, 12.5:1 with a pr3 head, Eagle rods, ARP rod bolts, Honda rod, crank, and trust bearings. The cost of his used set up would be less than building mine from scratch. I am a little concerned that his set up has seen been dragged - for a (who knows what) percentage of the 40000km. I would like to keep my c5 block if possible, but in the end money talks. Blueprinting and balancing will be budgeted for, however.