alright i have everything out of my car.. but what is the power wire color for my fuel pump????

(I have a 1998 Honda Civic EX)

 

ok i already found the power wire.. but i do not understand this example of what the realy is supposed to do..




What is the "Fuel Pump -" mean... what wire is that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by waterboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i already found the power wire.. but i do not understand this example of what the realy is supposed to do..




What is the "Fuel Pump -" mean... what wire is that?</TD></TR></TABLE> DO NOT under any circumstance use that system, doing so will bypass the fuel pump relay and the ECUs control of the relay and fuel pump 94

 

I spliced the Postive (+) wire for the fuel pump and put a switch connecting the 2 spliced wires (Postive fuel pump and the end peice going to the 12V) and i was wondering how come i needed a relay if it works just fine my method?
is this dangerou the way I have it?

 

You do not need a relay if the switch you install is the right size has an amp rating at least as high as the fuel pump fuse, and as long as the switch is installed in series in the line coming from the fuel pump relay, [cut the fuel pump power wire and connect the 2 ends to the switch] not like it sounds like you are saying "positive fuel pump and the end peice going to the 12V" I may be misunderstanding you but it sounds like you have connected the switch to a 12V+, [other then the one that went to the fuel pump originally] but if you are using the same 12V+ wire and the switch is a 7.5A or bigger, [7.5A is the fuel pump fuse in a 94 teg LS] a diff. year/model Honda/Acura may have a diff size. fuse, if the switch you are using has a lower amp rating then the fuse the switch may burn out, if it is a lot lower, it will burn out. That would be the only reason to use a relay, [if you want to use a very small switch] 94

 

well i have a 98 civic EX.. and i used a 25a at 12VDC rocker switch.. so if what ur saying is true it will be fine..

what i ment with the 12v thing was this:
I cut the yellow/green wire and put the switch in and then connected the 2 ends (spliced the power wire and re-connected them with the switch)

 

Then you should be fine 94

 

This is what I have been using for a couple of years on my car. The reason it uses a second relay is because of the reed switch which cannot take more than 20amps.

 

that is ******* insanely complicated lol
but thanks for the idea

 

fcm, I'm not sure I understand your criticism of my diagram. The ECU still has control of the fuel pump, it's just that the fuel pump power wire coming from the fuel pump relay now runs through the 86, 85 of the relay and to ground, allowing a constant 12 volts, fused at the fuse box or an inline fuse, to go across the 87, 30 of the relay and to the pump. Are you confusing my fuel pump power wire with an ign 12v?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fcm, I'm not sure I understand your criticism of my diagram. The ECU still has control of the fuel pump, it's just that the fuel pump power wire coming from the fuel pump relay now runs through the 86, 85 of the relay and to ground, allowing a constant 12 volts, fused at the fuse box or an inline fuse, to go across the 87, 30 of the relay and to the pump. Are you confusing my fuel pump power wire with an ign 12v?</TD></TR></TABLE> You are right, and no I am not confusing your fuel pump power wire with an ign. wire, and I do understand what you are doing, but the ECU and fuel pump relay no longer control the fuel pump, they control a relay that controls the fuel pump, and maybe I should not have been so "abrupt" about not using it, my concern is that it takes "direct" control by the ECU of the fuel pump power, controlling a relay that has switched power, if something went wrong, [seized relay] when ign. is turned off so would fuel pump power, with your set up, if the relay you installed "siezed up" the fuel pump would continue to run after ign. is turned off.
Now if the fused 12V+ constant, [into relay] was switched ign., [true ign.] I would not have a problem with it, other then that it would be redundant, you could just as easily install the switch on the ECU fuel pump relay control wire. 94

 

On my site where that diagram is taken from, I first suggest you simply use an auto switch inline with the original wire. I made that diagram for people who insist on using a relay. The idea was to make it worth the trouble, so what I did was suggest that you use a thicker gauge wire with a direct 12volt source in place of the factory wire. This would increase input to the fuel pump which has been show to increase fuel pressure. Some people replace their fuel pump wire with a thicker gauge for that reason with no intention of making a kill switch.

I respect your opinion, however I think the chance of a bosch relay seizing is pretty small. Maybe you can change my mind on that since you have a lot more experience than I do. I'll have to decide whether to change the diagram or simply include a warning.

 

You are right about a Bosch relay gong bad, over the years I have not seen it very often, and a seized one even less so, but it does happen, and not everyone will use a Bosch or P/B they will use the cheapest one they can find, adding a diode across 85/86 will help eliminate "arcing" at the contact, and connecting to a switched 12V+ source would eliminate the problem of pump running , [if relay seizes] after ign. is turned off.
I have done it on my 94 LS, I have a Holly H/O fuel pump and replaced the power and ground to the pump, after not getting the performance I expected, and installed a relay, wired the same way as you show, except, the power wire for the fuel pump was replaced all the way from the relay, [not sure if you ment that in your diagram] and power for the relay is switched, and I do not have a switch on the "trigger" from the oem fuel pump relay, my hidden off/on switch is on the ECU fuel pump relay control wire. 94

 

The problem in recommending an ignition 12v over a constant 12v is that the only source that I know of for an ign 12v is from the black yellow wire, which requires soldering. On the other hand, you can crimp a female quick disconnect to the wire and slip it right on the fuse box output and have your constant 12v. This is obviously a million times easier for my site's intended audience. The same thing goes for the diode. The word and concept of a diode scares people. I can find out if Radio Shack sells the relay plugs with the diode already installed like a start kill relay. Other than that you can see my problem. I try to make it as clear as possible but there are still people that get confused.

Maybe I should use an LED switch to indicate when the fuel pump has power.

JUST USE AN APPROPRIATE INLINE SWITCH

 

Yea a blinking led on the dash, pos. of led to 30 on relay and neg of led to a switched source, that way it would only blink if relay seized and ign was off 94