Should i convert my auto 98 ls integra to 5spd
i dont have the money to buy a new car so i figure ill jst convert my teg to a 5spd...if someone out there has done it before can u tell me if uve had any problems with it at all or nething...thanks
you're going to be spending a couple grand if you do. do the research on how much parts are first...then you'll get a good understanding on how much it will be. last that i remember, i was up to almost $3000 when i was thinking of doing it.
alright thanks ya.....well like i was goin to keep my ls motor....and then mayb put a b16a hydro with type r lsd in it and the guy im might be takin it to said it would be round liek 2g with labor and everything....but liek i dont know if anyone else that has had this done has had any problems with it or not thats what im tryin to figure out
use the search. there's a couple good articles of people doing it. it'll probably give you a good guess on how much you'll be spending.
Nothing is better than when you convert a slushbox over to a 5 spd. Did it on my old mazda Rx-7 and it was a totally new beast. I would recommend doing the swap if at all possible. You'll never look back... :D
Shoulda checked the FAQ's
Parts list
1. Manual Tranny with the fork and pilot bearing and flywheel cover. (I gotta LS for my turbo setup)
2. Clutch with pressure plate (I gotta Clutch Master from Ultrarev.com $409)
3. Flywheel (I gotta Clutch Master from Ultrarev.com $187)
4. All flywheel and pressure plate bolts (automatic ones are different)
5. Manual Starter with the 2 bolts (one long and one short)
6. Front tranny mount
7. Manual Rear support bracket (the one in the back that connects the tranny and the block)
8. Manual Front Tranny mount (it's the arm with 3 holes in it, the automatic is different)
9. Upper Tranny Conversion mount (I got mine from Hasport for $175, its a must, unless you want to modify
a stock manual mount. The automatic mount will not fit.)
10. clutch pedal (brake and gas are optional, I just cut my brake smaller and got
covers for the pedals. looks alright.
11. clutch master with clutch reseviour
12. slave cylinder
13. hard clutch lines going from clutch master to slave cylinder
14. soft clutch line between the hard clutch lines and slave cylinder
15. shift linkages with the pin and clamp for the shifter and
the 2 washers and bolt that support the stablizer
16. shifter
17. shift **** (skunk2)
18. manual shift console with shift boot
19. Everyone says that you need manaul axels and intermediate shaft, but
I was able to get away with using my automatic ones. But if you're not sure
get the manual ones. I wasn't sure either, but I had a set when I bought the tranny.
20. Optional Manual ECU. I bought one, but didn't use it becuase the wiring harness is different
for automatics. My automatic one works just fine.
21. All the nuts and bolts to bolt in the new parts. Look on http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/ to see what you need.
You're probably going to need all the tranny bolts, the three bolts for the front tranny mount,
the starter bolts, the shift linkage bolts, flywheel, and pressure plate bolts, also optional is
the silver arm that connects the tranny and block from the bottom. the automatic one is different.
22. Crucial tools: Something to cut metal,breaker bar, drill,and torque wrench for flywheel and pressure plate (19 lbs)
I was able to do the swap with a 137 piece crafsman tool set. You'll also need some sheet metal.
Getting Started
1. I spent over a year collecting the parts, its up to you on how long you want to search. I searched ebay and junk yards.
Make sure you get the right parts, people on ebay sell automatic parts listed as manual parts.
Make sure you know your stuff.
2. I took whole motor out (highly recommended) because it's easier that way and I need to change the timing belt.
You also need to take out the automatic shifter console. Make sure it's in Park.
3. Once you get the motor out, take off the automatic tranny and all the torque converter.
4. Put the flywheel with bearing, clutch, and pressure plate on. Make sure you torque it right with a torque wrench.
5. Make sure your tranny has the right pilot bearing. I got one from Clutch Master that came with my
clutch. It did not work. It was too thick. I had to take my tranny out again to replace it when
I was done. What a pain in the A$$.
6. Bolt on the tranny. If you want, you can test the tranny if it works. Put it into first gear
with the shift linkage, put an axel in one side and turn it to see if the cluch is gripping.
You'll know it's gripping if the other side where the axel goes in is also turning.
This is what I should have done before I put the motor back in.
7. The automatic tranny had an extra throttle cable and clips. The manual one only needs the
speed sensor and the the reverse lights
8. Just put the motor back in and all your axels and stuff and Add your fluids.
9. Where the automatic shifter is, there's a cover welded onto the bottom to protect the cable.
That needs to be cut out. I cut mine out from inside the car. If you don't cut it out, the
shift linkage will not fit. Just cover it up with sheet metal later with silicone to seal it.
10. You'll also need to drill the 2 holes to bolt up the shiftl linkage stablizer bar. They're
already marked for you. It's the 2 outline of holes that aren't drilled yet.
11. Put the clutch lines in with teflon tape. They don't need to be bolted on. I just left mine hanging.
Then you need to put in the clutch pedal and bleed the clutch.
12. When the shifter and clutch is in, the you'll want to do the wiring. I found this picture on the internet.
It really helped alot, but the directions where kinda of confusing so I cleaned it up a little.
On the shifter for the auto transmission, you will see a 14-wire plug. Cut the plug from the auto shifter assembly,
and leave about 5 inches of wire. Looking at the plug, the positions are
(left to right) (top row) 14,13,12,11,10,9,8 and (bottom row) 7,6,5,4,3,2,1.
Starter and Key removal: Connect wires 10,11,12 together (2 thick black wires and grenn/white)
Cruise Control: Connect wires 7 and 13 together (small pink and small black)
Reverse lights: connect wires 4,5 to your reverse light clip on the tranny (yellow and green/black)
13. When thats done, cover up your hole, put your new shift console and shift **** on
and you're ready to roll.
14. I had no major problems except for the pilot bearing that clutch master gave me. I had
to take the tranny out again and put the stock one back in. My axels were pretty rusted
in. I must have spent at least 4 hours just taking them out.
15. I spent around $1000 doing the swap. I got the tranny for $300 off the street. It came
with the starter, shift linkages, mounts, bolts, flywheel cover, the silver arm that connects
the tranny and the block from underneath, axels and intermedite shaft. I gotta great deal.
16. I spent around 24 hours doing my project. I would have been shorter, but I spent 7 hours
taking the tranny back out an putting it back on to replace the pilot bearing.
17. It was a pretty good project and easy to do. I would definitely do it again. If you've invested
a lot already on your automatic car and don't want to buy a new one, this swap is worth it.
Most of my money went to the Clutchmaster Clutch and flywheel. Everything else was pretty cheap.
Came straight outta the FAQ.
Parts list
1. Manual Tranny with the fork and pilot bearing and flywheel cover. (I gotta LS for my turbo setup)
2. Clutch with pressure plate (I gotta Clutch Master from Ultrarev.com $409)
3. Flywheel (I gotta Clutch Master from Ultrarev.com $187)
4. All flywheel and pressure plate bolts (automatic ones are different)
5. Manual Starter with the 2 bolts (one long and one short)
6. Front tranny mount
7. Manual Rear support bracket (the one in the back that connects the tranny and the block)
8. Manual Front Tranny mount (it's the arm with 3 holes in it, the automatic is different)
9. Upper Tranny Conversion mount (I got mine from Hasport for $175, its a must, unless you want to modify
a stock manual mount. The automatic mount will not fit.)
10. clutch pedal (brake and gas are optional, I just cut my brake smaller and got
covers for the pedals. looks alright.
11. clutch master with clutch reseviour
12. slave cylinder
13. hard clutch lines going from clutch master to slave cylinder
14. soft clutch line between the hard clutch lines and slave cylinder
15. shift linkages with the pin and clamp for the shifter and
the 2 washers and bolt that support the stablizer
16. shifter
17. shift **** (skunk2)
18. manual shift console with shift boot
19. Everyone says that you need manaul axels and intermediate shaft, but
I was able to get away with using my automatic ones. But if you're not sure
get the manual ones. I wasn't sure either, but I had a set when I bought the tranny.
20. Optional Manual ECU. I bought one, but didn't use it becuase the wiring harness is different
for automatics. My automatic one works just fine.
21. All the nuts and bolts to bolt in the new parts. Look on http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/ to see what you need.
You're probably going to need all the tranny bolts, the three bolts for the front tranny mount,
the starter bolts, the shift linkage bolts, flywheel, and pressure plate bolts, also optional is
the silver arm that connects the tranny and block from the bottom. the automatic one is different.
22. Crucial tools: Something to cut metal,breaker bar, drill,and torque wrench for flywheel and pressure plate (19 lbs)
I was able to do the swap with a 137 piece crafsman tool set. You'll also need some sheet metal.
Getting Started
1. I spent over a year collecting the parts, its up to you on how long you want to search. I searched ebay and junk yards.
Make sure you get the right parts, people on ebay sell automatic parts listed as manual parts.
Make sure you know your stuff.
2. I took whole motor out (highly recommended) because it's easier that way and I need to change the timing belt.
You also need to take out the automatic shifter console. Make sure it's in Park.
3. Once you get the motor out, take off the automatic tranny and all the torque converter.
4. Put the flywheel with bearing, clutch, and pressure plate on. Make sure you torque it right with a torque wrench.
5. Make sure your tranny has the right pilot bearing. I got one from Clutch Master that came with my
clutch. It did not work. It was too thick. I had to take my tranny out again to replace it when
I was done. What a pain in the A$$.
6. Bolt on the tranny. If you want, you can test the tranny if it works. Put it into first gear
with the shift linkage, put an axel in one side and turn it to see if the cluch is gripping.
You'll know it's gripping if the other side where the axel goes in is also turning.
This is what I should have done before I put the motor back in.
7. The automatic tranny had an extra throttle cable and clips. The manual one only needs the
speed sensor and the the reverse lights
8. Just put the motor back in and all your axels and stuff and Add your fluids.
9. Where the automatic shifter is, there's a cover welded onto the bottom to protect the cable.
That needs to be cut out. I cut mine out from inside the car. If you don't cut it out, the
shift linkage will not fit. Just cover it up with sheet metal later with silicone to seal it.
10. You'll also need to drill the 2 holes to bolt up the shiftl linkage stablizer bar. They're
already marked for you. It's the 2 outline of holes that aren't drilled yet.
11. Put the clutch lines in with teflon tape. They don't need to be bolted on. I just left mine hanging.
Then you need to put in the clutch pedal and bleed the clutch.
12. When the shifter and clutch is in, the you'll want to do the wiring. I found this picture on the internet.
It really helped alot, but the directions where kinda of confusing so I cleaned it up a little.
On the shifter for the auto transmission, you will see a 14-wire plug. Cut the plug from the auto shifter assembly,
and leave about 5 inches of wire. Looking at the plug, the positions are
(left to right) (top row) 14,13,12,11,10,9,8 and (bottom row) 7,6,5,4,3,2,1.
Starter and Key removal: Connect wires 10,11,12 together (2 thick black wires and grenn/white)
Cruise Control: Connect wires 7 and 13 together (small pink and small black)
Reverse lights: connect wires 4,5 to your reverse light clip on the tranny (yellow and green/black)
13. When thats done, cover up your hole, put your new shift console and shift **** on
and you're ready to roll.
14. I had no major problems except for the pilot bearing that clutch master gave me. I had
to take the tranny out again and put the stock one back in. My axels were pretty rusted
in. I must have spent at least 4 hours just taking them out.
15. I spent around $1000 doing the swap. I got the tranny for $300 off the street. It came
with the starter, shift linkages, mounts, bolts, flywheel cover, the silver arm that connects
the tranny and the block from underneath, axels and intermedite shaft. I gotta great deal.
16. I spent around 24 hours doing my project. I would have been shorter, but I spent 7 hours
taking the tranny back out an putting it back on to replace the pilot bearing.
17. It was a pretty good project and easy to do. I would definitely do it again. If you've invested
a lot already on your automatic car and don't want to buy a new one, this swap is worth it.
Most of my money went to the Clutchmaster Clutch and flywheel. Everything else was pretty cheap.
Came straight outta the FAQ.
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ya thanks alot guys.....umm no the reason i wouldnt want to sell my car is cause i still owe like 7000 on it and if i sell it the most i can get is prolly like 8 or somthing so id get like a grand back if u see what im saying...thats why im just choosin to convert it....cause the body on my car is mint and if i bought another car for like 2g the body is more than likely not gona be mint and as in good as condition as mine is...so thats why i wanna convert
thats cool...
trust me you are gonna live 5 speed....its a totally different world when you drive auto vs manual
trust me you are gonna live 5 speed....its a totally different world when you drive auto vs manual
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm samurai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats cool...
trust me you are gonna live 5 speed....its a totally different world when you drive auto vs manual</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes specially on traffik
trust me you are gonna live 5 speed....its a totally different world when you drive auto vs manual</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes specially on traffik
i dont know if i have this trial thing for much longer so..when u get ur conversion...send me an email jasbolb@yahoo.com i wanna know how it wewnt...and liek what type of parts u went with nd stuff..thanks
verbal axesassin - acutally it wont be done till friday.
ls tranny, buncha oem parts, aftermarket intermediate shaft, from ebay (they claimed it to be a lot stronger then oem), xtd clutch kit, oem flywheel, 97LS ecu, thats all i can think of.
ls tranny, buncha oem parts, aftermarket intermediate shaft, from ebay (they claimed it to be a lot stronger then oem), xtd clutch kit, oem flywheel, 97LS ecu, thats all i can think of.
buy a totaled integra for 500 -1200 then use all the part off of it then scrap it. that is what we did with my friend acorrd
i've got a friend who done it to his 94 integra ls from automatic to 5speed manual GSR Tranny... cost him about $3000 dunno what else he didnt he said the tranny and labor cost him $3000
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oxymoron »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">might as well, upgrade if your gonna sell.
get a g35, m3, IS500 or the TL, RL or even the TSX</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah...b/c a 98' Integra is in the same ******* price range! He said he doesn't have the money to buy a new car...
get a g35, m3, IS500 or the TL, RL or even the TSX</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah...b/c a 98' Integra is in the same ******* price range! He said he doesn't have the money to buy a new car...
so its official now.....within the next wek ill be drivin 5spd....im going wit the gsr tranny, type r lsd and what ever else the guy decides to put in lol...i migt put up some picks (before and after)
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