ITR 5 Lug Conversion - any performance increase or purely cosmetic?
I was thinking about throwing a 5 lug conversion on to my gs-r and was wondering if this upgrade actually improves anything performance wise or if people just did it merely for visual enhancement? The only thing I could think of would be the larger rotars for breaking. Other than that, do they do anything else?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by numotive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The only thing I could think of would be the larger rotars for breaking. Other than that, do they do anything else?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea...they look reaaaal nice
Performance wise....like you stated, better braking. Of course...I can't think of anything else it would do aside from attracting more attention to your car
Yea...they look reaaaal nice
Performance wise....like you stated, better braking. Of course...I can't think of anything else it would do aside from attracting more attention to your car
Hmmm... gonna be tough to decide if its really worth the cash or not. Kind of a lot of money for something so minor that is mostly cosmetic.
You can have the larger brakes without the 5-lug.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=734560
The rear wheel bearings are slightly wider on the ITR 5-lug compared to the other Integras.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=734560
The rear wheel bearings are slightly wider on the ITR 5-lug compared to the other Integras.
You have a crapier much more expensive and limited selection of wheels, the parts (pads and rotors etc) are harder to come by and cost more, you can run a minimum size of 15" diameter wheels, its heavier (search for the total weight difference), but everyone in the appearance cosmetic forum will be straight up trippin and saying crap like "yoooo dawg dat 5-lug is the shiznit for realz!".
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but everyone in the appearance cosmetic forum will be straight up trippin and saying crap like "yoooo dawg dat 5-lug is the shiznit for realz!".</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bahahahahah
Bahahahahah
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lol yeah, i don't see any real advantage to make it worth while. i can always get some bigger powerslot rotars or something if i really want to. but then again.... ahhhhh shiznit i would have 5 lugs mang! just like a type r! lol
i put a 5lug on my integra and the braking is pretty much the same because im using the stock M/C and booster...
i regret getting 5lug i wish i still had my 16" almighty grey regamasters
i regret getting 5lug i wish i still had my 16" almighty grey regamasters
I had a 5 lug conversion on a hatchback I had earlier this year, I only put it on because the stock 4 lug had worn out pads and rusted wheel bearings (it was easier to install the 5 lug than to replace the messed up components) One good thing is that it does add weight to the bottom of the car, thus transfering the weight balance down, but unless you track the hell out of it, you really won't be able to notice a difference. But it does get a lot of attention, both good and bad.
i find it amazing how having 5 lugs instead of 4 can get you that much more attention, especially since it doesn't even do anything performance wise... they are friggen LUG NUTS
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by numotive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i find it amazing how having 5 lugs instead of 4 can get you that much more attention, especially since it doesn't even do anything performance wise... they are friggen LUG NUTS</TD></TR></TABLE>
Most Honda-informed automotive circles (excluding the track ****** and purists) will see it as some form of a status symbol, an indication that you and your car possess some level of superiority.
-Kendall, dedicated automotive purist
Most Honda-informed automotive circles (excluding the track ****** and purists) will see it as some form of a status symbol, an indication that you and your car possess some level of superiority.
-Kendall, dedicated automotive purist
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by numotive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i find it amazing how having 5 lugs instead of 4 can get you that much more attention, especially since it doesn't even do anything performance wise... they are friggen LUG NUTS</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep....and the only way I really noticed any increase in my braking when I did the 5 lug was that I bought the stainless steel braided lines, ceramic pads from checker, and...well...I had to use prelude type SH calipers ( used washers to evenly space the fronts ) both front and back. I also used DOT 4 brake fluid ( though I really don't think it made THAT much of a difference ). It did stop a bit better than stock though ( but it felt like a HUGE improvement ). But like someone said, I won't really notice anything realistically unless I track my car
yep....and the only way I really noticed any increase in my braking when I did the 5 lug was that I bought the stainless steel braided lines, ceramic pads from checker, and...well...I had to use prelude type SH calipers ( used washers to evenly space the fronts ) both front and back. I also used DOT 4 brake fluid ( though I really don't think it made THAT much of a difference ). It did stop a bit better than stock though ( but it felt like a HUGE improvement ). But like someone said, I won't really notice anything realistically unless I track my car
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Naruto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> It did stop a bit better than stock though ( but it felt like a HUGE improvement ). But like someone said, I won't really notice anything realistically unless I track my car
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The biggest difference will be in the longevity of braking performance under hard driving. The larger brakes will be able to withstand a lot more stress before fading, which can be critical on a road course or in an autocross. Pad choice will make a bigger difference in ultimate stopping ability.
</TD></TR></TABLE>The biggest difference will be in the longevity of braking performance under hard driving. The larger brakes will be able to withstand a lot more stress before fading, which can be critical on a road course or in an autocross. Pad choice will make a bigger difference in ultimate stopping ability.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by numotive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i just dropped 1550 on a brand new j4d lsd type r tranny so i'ma have to save for a while if i want the conversion. its like almost a grand right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you get the conversion off of a JDM car, then You'll have to purchase new axles as well. USDM conversions don't require new axles, but usually cost a bit more than the JDM ones.
If you get the conversion off of a JDM car, then You'll have to purchase new axles as well. USDM conversions don't require new axles, but usually cost a bit more than the JDM ones.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The biggest difference will be in the longevity of braking performance under hard driving. The larger brakes will be able to withstand a lot more stress before fading, which can be critical on a road course or in an autocross. Pad choice will make a bigger difference in ultimate stopping ability.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh I know....and since I'm not tracking the car yet ( car is currently being daily driven until I can get a beater fixed
)....I'll wait on looking into pad choice
Oh I know....and since I'm not tracking the car yet ( car is currently being daily driven until I can get a beater fixed
)....I'll wait on looking into pad choice
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you get the conversion off of a JDM car, then You'll have to purchase new axles as well. USDM conversions don't require new axles, but usually cost a bit more than the JDM ones.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You'll only need the axles if you get JDM ITR 5 lug. If you go with the JDM CTR or USDM ITR, then you'll be ok using your stock axles.
If you get the conversion off of a JDM car, then You'll have to purchase new axles as well. USDM conversions don't require new axles, but usually cost a bit more than the JDM ones.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You'll only need the axles if you get JDM ITR 5 lug. If you go with the JDM CTR or USDM ITR, then you'll be ok using your stock axles.
it's already been stated, guys (and gals). 5-lug conversion is what you do when you don't know what to do with the better part of $1000. ITR brakes almost bolt onto 3G tegs and others using teg spindles and such. that goes for the front and the rear, BTW. and you can do it for less than half the price of the 5-lug conversion. so there you have it, there is NO, i repeat, N-O performance benefit of 5 lugs. it's just like it sounds. wow, now you have another lug nut and bolt on each wheel, and now you can run Type-R wheels, which are mighty handsome if i might add. but in any case there is no other reason than Type-R wheels to do it.
mostly cosmetic, but still some function.
other than those mentioned above, i can think of 1 more plus to 5lug. the extra 5th wheel stud distributes stress to the lugnuts more evenly. every 4 lug honda ive had has always had problems with front wheel studs getting messed up. not with 5lug!
other than those mentioned above, i can think of 1 more plus to 5lug. the extra 5th wheel stud distributes stress to the lugnuts more evenly. every 4 lug honda ive had has always had problems with front wheel studs getting messed up. not with 5lug!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have a crapier much more expensive and limited selection of wheels, the parts (pads and rotors etc) are harder to come by and cost more, you can run a minimum size of 15" diameter wheels, its heavier (search for the total weight difference), but everyone in the appearance cosmetic forum will be straight up trippin and saying crap like "yoooo dawg dat 5-lug is the shiznit for realz!".</TD></TR></TABLE>
fo shizzle mah rizzle dizzle nizzle.. it's off the hizzle..
fo shizzle mah rizzle dizzle nizzle.. it's off the hizzle..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by guest16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mostly cosmetic, but still some function.
other than those mentioned above, i can think of 1 more plus to 5lug. the extra 5th wheel stud distributes stress to the lugnuts more evenly. every 4 lug honda ive had has always had problems with front wheel studs getting messed up. not with 5lug!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i call bullsh!t. the lug bolts do NOT exhibit substantial shear stress, as most people believe. they endure medium to high normal tensile stress, and they take it like a pro (they're designed for it). the hub is designed to interlock perfectly with the center hole of the wheel. they're designed that way. it ensures 1) the wheel goes on perfectly straight, not off-center, and 2) that the lug bolts do not take shear stress. that's why they make hub-centric rings.
now, the reason your lug bolts get messed up is because when you put the wheel on, you drag the holes of the wheel across the bolts getting the wheel to sit properly on the hub. pay attention next time you do it and you'll see what i mean. then try your best to quit doing it, and go to SEARS or something and get a carbide tape and die and die all your lug bolts and tap all your lug nuts. good as new
other than those mentioned above, i can think of 1 more plus to 5lug. the extra 5th wheel stud distributes stress to the lugnuts more evenly. every 4 lug honda ive had has always had problems with front wheel studs getting messed up. not with 5lug!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i call bullsh!t. the lug bolts do NOT exhibit substantial shear stress, as most people believe. they endure medium to high normal tensile stress, and they take it like a pro (they're designed for it). the hub is designed to interlock perfectly with the center hole of the wheel. they're designed that way. it ensures 1) the wheel goes on perfectly straight, not off-center, and 2) that the lug bolts do not take shear stress. that's why they make hub-centric rings.
now, the reason your lug bolts get messed up is because when you put the wheel on, you drag the holes of the wheel across the bolts getting the wheel to sit properly on the hub. pay attention next time you do it and you'll see what i mean. then try your best to quit doing it, and go to SEARS or something and get a carbide tape and die and die all your lug bolts and tap all your lug nuts. good as new



