idel problem, after AEM V2 intake was take off
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From: Colorado springs, CO, usa
hey, i have a low idel problem with the car, the guy who i bought the car from , told me the car used to have a AEM V2 intake, after he toke out the intake, the car started to have this problem.
The car has the stock intake for now, but what i can i do to fix this idel problem? the car try to go off when i turn the car on and when i make a complete stop.
I need help guys
The car has the stock intake for now, but what i can i do to fix this idel problem? the car try to go off when i turn the car on and when i make a complete stop.
I need help guys
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From: Colorado springs, CO, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by revhi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its normal, try tapping the map sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you think, if i buy another intake, that should fix the problem, because of the low idel problem the car shakes alot. ( again is only when i make a complete stop or i turn on the car) but if i give gas to the car to relv to like 1000, the car stop shaking
you think, if i buy another intake, that should fix the problem, because of the low idel problem the car shakes alot. ( again is only when i make a complete stop or i turn on the car) but if i give gas to the car to relv to like 1000, the car stop shaking
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From: Colorado springs, CO, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo1z »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe reset the ECU as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if i want to do that, do i have to take it to the shop to get that done? or i can do it my self?
if i want to do that, do i have to take it to the shop to get that done? or i can do it my self?
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Thread Starter
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From: Colorado springs, CO, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tyrone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can u explain wuts a map tap???</TD></TR></TABLE>
"take the back of a screw driver or a similar object and tap the map sensor on top of the intake manifold."
nro1z told me that
"take the back of a screw driver or a similar object and tap the map sensor on top of the intake manifold."
nro1z told me that
Since the AEM V2 give more air to the trhotle body (TB) the map sensor might have accustomed to the air of the CAI. So when it was tooked off the map might loose some accuracy in reading the air thru the TB. This because of the changes in air induction. So in my opinion you should unplug the map sensor and clean it a bit, then "Whack the map" safely (the part that is screwed to the TB) with the end of a rubber screwdriver. You should also try to reset the ecu at the time that you finish whacking the map sensor. Then plug the map sensor and connect the ECU.
That should help you out. If not, and your car is still on warranty take it to the dealer and tell them to change it for you (like I did). Honda have made a new version of the map sensor.
Anyway try checking this link, it's pretty helpfull!!!
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...09708
That should help you out. If not, and your car is still on warranty take it to the dealer and tell them to change it for you (like I did). Honda have made a new version of the map sensor.
Anyway try checking this link, it's pretty helpfull!!!
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...09708
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typeRkill »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if i want to do that, do i have to take it to the shop to get that done? or i can do it my self?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, disconnect the positive terminal of the battery or look for the Ecu Fuse and disconnect it. Both things should be disconnected for about 15 to 20 minutes. That should reset the Ecu.
if i want to do that, do i have to take it to the shop to get that done? or i can do it my self?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, disconnect the positive terminal of the battery or look for the Ecu Fuse and disconnect it. Both things should be disconnected for about 15 to 20 minutes. That should reset the Ecu.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAallTheWAY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just tow it to the junkyard. It's no good anymore.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, indeed
haha, indeed
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CNS2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, disconnect the positive terminal of the battery or look for the Ecu Fuse and disconnect it. Both things should be disconnected for about 15 to 20 minutes. That should reset the Ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hey! i just tried and i think that fixed the idel problem
Thankx
Modified by typeRkill at 4:08 AM 9/13/2005
Modified by typeRkill at 5:42 AM 9/13/2005
Hey! i just tried and i think that fixed the idel problem

Thankx
Modified by typeRkill at 4:08 AM 9/13/2005
Modified by typeRkill at 5:42 AM 9/13/2005
I'm just trying to help you out...
After you disconnected the battery for about 15-20 minutes... and once you re-connected the battery... You are NOT supposed to drive the car immediately or even step on the throttle. During this time the car is re-calibrating everything and stepping on the gas... i.e. increasing the air velocity will screw with the re-calibration process.
So if you didn't wait about 4 minutes or so after you plugged teh battery back... you should do it again, jsut in case.
After you disconnected the battery for about 15-20 minutes... and once you re-connected the battery... You are NOT supposed to drive the car immediately or even step on the throttle. During this time the car is re-calibrating everything and stepping on the gas... i.e. increasing the air velocity will screw with the re-calibration process.
So if you didn't wait about 4 minutes or so after you plugged teh battery back... you should do it again, jsut in case.
oh and it's idle...
I was like what's an "I DELL?" lol. that's how i was reading it for like 3 minutes trying to figure it out...
I was like what's an "I DELL?" lol. that's how i was reading it for like 3 minutes trying to figure it out...
Thread Starter
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From: Colorado springs, CO, usa
hey guys now i have a real idle problem, when i turn on the A/C, and make a complete stop, the cars shut off.....
would i need to take the S to the shop?
would i need to take the S to the shop?
u want the best of both worlds? a running car and A/C? what is wrong with people.... I'd hit up Honda, possibly an alternator, if that makes any sense?
Thread Starter
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From: Colorado springs, CO, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sideways2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whoa now that sounds like a problem. Any noises before it dies?</TD></TR></TABLE>
nop, after a complete stop, it just dies =/
nop, after a complete stop, it just dies =/
Didn't you just buy your car? If its within 30 days they should fix it no charge.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JuanNeeto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> are stepping on a clutch?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You know what? Thats not out of the question...
I really can't think of anything unless I see it happen. Sorry, good luck with the dealership.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JuanNeeto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> are stepping on a clutch?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You know what? Thats not out of the question...
I really can't think of anything unless I see it happen. Sorry, good luck with the dealership.
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FourthGenHatch
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Jun 14, 2003 04:10 PM



Thanks for the advice, i think i would have to reset the ECU again, 
