I am in the process of buying a 2001 Accord LX, auto 29k. I just wanna say hello to everyone on this site, and to please bear with me since I am a total newb to Accords.

I am planning on selling my gas guzzler 96 Chevy truck since I commute 60+ miles a day to school. The Accord is in great shape, since it is so low mileage. My only complaints are that the car has steel wheels with hubcaps, and want to know what kind of wheels I should get, and what will fit etc.

Should I stick with OE and get the alloy wheels that came on the nicer models, or go aftermarket with some Konig's or something of that sort...

Thanks in advance

 

Check the recalls, some had ignition troubles, adn some auto transmissions were still having problems in 01.

Definitely go with some new wheels, 17s are the biggest recommended, Konig, Rota, are decent brands, avoid ricey wheels

 

I've found several 15" OEM alloy wheels for about $160 each here: http://www.handa-accessories.com/accext01.html

But what I would really like would be these: http://www.tiredex.com/konig/d..._1998

Also, I hate to beat a dead horse, as I'm sure this topic has been covered before, but what basic bolt-ons are best to add some power? CAI, pulleys, cam gears, cat-back...etc.

 

That's still a lot of money for accord wheels, you can get OEM alloys on ebay for 300-400 shipped.

The holes are nice, our problem is not too many wheels ome in 4x114.3.

Read teh guide to basic accords at the top of the forum for all teh bolt ons

 

I read it, but theres nothing about intakes or pulleys.

Also, do you know of a reputable site that sells mainly honda performance parts?

 

17's and Eibach pro kit is what I roll with and sits real nice, as far as any performace parts do you know your price range. But anyways welcome to the site..

 

there's a crapload in there on intakes...pullies arent especially useful.

just get a cheap eBay intake and put a good K&N filter on it and you'll save yourself a lot of money, cause it'll perform the same as any 150 dollar intake.

ebay is a good place for parts, just know what you're looking for so you dont get something cheap and be worse off for it.

tasauto.com is all accord parts, but I barely ever use it cause its kind of pricey.

 

welcome....with every bolt on possible, you looking at maybe 10-12 added horsepower...and thats for about $1500.......wheels, just get some lightweight 16's

 

well, if your gonna race your honda up.... you already made mistake, automatic race cars kinda lame..... Also, if your looking for cheap HP try nitro. If you want steady but pure HP try getting intake, exhuast and then try rods, pistons. if you get all 4 it would cost 1.5k or just intake and exhaust is about 700.00 and rods ands pistons about 1 k

GL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22BigBooster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, if your gonna race your honda up.... you already made mistake, automatic race cars kinda lame..... Also, if your looking for cheap HP try nitro. If you want steady but pure HP try getting intake, exhuast and then try rods, pistons. if you get all 4 it would cost 1.5k or just intake and exhaust is about 700.00 and rods ands pistons about 1 k

GL</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't konw what you're talking about, do you?

MOST race cars i've seen are automatics. I've seen drag cars and pro turbo cars with automatics. After a certain amount of horsepower, it's no longer optimal for the driver to do shifting....the clutch is too rigid, too much going on from an 800hp car to pay attention to shifting...

Granted that's a full race setup, and most street cars and low power drag cars have manuals, but thats' teh truth...

Nitrous is cheap hp, but at a cost; you need to maintain pressure, temperature, fuel and air mixture, and refill it when it runs out.

Your numbers are all off, I could get a GOOD intake and exhaust system for 500, and with F series, rods and pistons would be totally useless. The F doesnt do so well all motor (not counting Bisi's carburated F), so those things would be useless.

The easiest way to make power would be to spend 3k on a good turbo setup tuned properly on a decent computer, no hacks or anything.

 

Who said anything about a race car? Not to mention nitrous...

This is a daily driver/beater/commuter, all I'm looking for is maybe a few extra ponies, better looks, (wheels/tires/exhaust tip) and good sound (intake/exhaust). That said;

The car is officially mine! Sold my truck today so I will be taking delivery today or tomorrow. I'll miss the truck though

 

Something I forgot to add; I would dare say that 90% of professionally sanctioned race cars (drag) are automatic.

Sure I could have edited but I wanted to make a point.

 

welll like you both said.... I know plenty of drag cars that race in circuit that are mannual.... Its a double standard to make such a statement as you both have. Granted, plenty of drag cars are automatic but look around and you will see that mannuals are racing too. I will send my car and colorado drag teams who DO have mannuals.