I recently bought a complete gsr head, I've been searching and searching and researching about ls/vtec but i keep hearing the same things over and over again, ls/vtec is ok when built right, Ive got the complete head, im buying the ls/vtec kit from golden eagle, the obd2a to obd1 jumper harness, a chipped p28, fuel pressure regulator, gsr oil/water pump, arp head bolts, i dont plan on ever going over 8 grand, im not even sure if i will go that high i might stop at 7000, 7500. Yes I know the vtec heads make most of their power after 8 grand but its not worth anything blowing. The motor has been kept up with on maintence and around 50,000 miles on the ls block. I know its impossible to say yes it will be fine or no it will go and be 100% possitive about it , but do you think this setup will work and keep the reliability

 

??

 

Thats a stupid question Parts mean nothing its all about how its built and if they know what the **** they are doing.

Nothing will outlast a Factory Engine, Once you take that head off Your gonna leak oil So be prepared to keep up a lot more on maint.

GoodLuck, I think Id Rather do Turbo Then at least the head can stay on the block and keep that factory seal, Plus way more potential and if your not going to go to 8K then why even build a VTEC motor? Get a GT32R Turbo Look that up GT32R Or even a GT42R
I have a link to a RSX on the stock block doing 500 Horspower with a GT42R and no INternal Modifications.

 

follow your heart like napolean dynamite>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by low430 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats a stupid question Parts mean nothing its all about how its built and if they know what the **** they are doing.

Nothing will outlast a Factory Engine, Once you take that head off Your gonna leak oil So be prepared to keep up a lot more on maint.

GoodLuck, I think Id Rather do Turbo Then at least the head can stay on the block and keep that factory seal, Plus way more potential and if your not going to go to 8K then why even build a VTEC motor? Get a GT32R Turbo Look that up GT32R Or even a GT42R
I have a link to a RSX on the stock block doing 500 Horspower with a GT42R and no INternal Modifications. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think you've owned or dealt with a lsv...

I agree with you that the build(er) is 90% of the deal, but saying you're going to leak oil because you take the head off? C'mon man... I don't understand where you get your information. ...and OF COURSE you will make more power going FI...but that's NOT what he asked about...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaTeg95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I recently bought a complete gsr head, I've been searching and searching and researching about ls/vtec but i keep hearing the same things over and over again, ls/vtec is ok when built right, Ive got the complete head, im buying the ls/vtec kit from golden eagle, the obd2a to obd1 jumper harness, a chipped p28, fuel pressure regulator, gsr oil/water pump, arp head bolts, i dont plan on ever going over 8 grand, im not even sure if i will go that high i might stop at 7000, 7500. Yes I know the vtec heads make most of their power after 8 grand but its not worth anything blowing. The motor has been kept up with on maintence and around 50,000 miles on the ls block. I know its impossible to say yes it will be fine or no it will go and be 100% possitive about it , but do you think this setup will work and keep the reliability</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should also get ARP rod bolts and consider doing some tuning instead of a chip. Everything you show there will be fine up to 7500. MAKE SURE you get all NEW ITR oil/water pumps JUST for insurance purposes...it's worth it . Make sure the person that's doing the conversion for you has complete and clear instructions. Make sure YOU supply the proper parts/gaskets etc so that YOU KNOW that it's all going together with the correct parts. If the build quality is good, you replace those water/oil pumps and assuming the bottom end is in good shape, you shouldn't have any problems spinning to 7500 and being reliable. TUNING will make a better running engine that a chip...so do consider that.

The parts MEAN EVERYTHING with the build (DO NOT buy generic bullshit parts for your build!)...but more emphasis is put on the builder simply because he is the one that has to make it work TOGETHER CORRECTLY.


Modified by DAantagonist at 11:43 AM 9/12/2005

 

Like daantagonist said,you should go with arp rod bolts also.your gsr water and oil pumps should be fine,buy a new timing belt if you haven't already.Make sure you have a mechanic who has built lsvtecs b4. My first lsv was built by a reputable honda tuner in my area,but turns out he had no expierience with lsv.Block had 80000 miles on it when swap was done,put bout 14000 miles on it and boom. Long story short,good mechanic,good parts, should equal good lsvtec. Good luck with the motor.

 

sorry I didn't see you already had the Vtec oil/water pumps

 

yea, im going to pick up a gsr timing belt tomm, the person who is doing the swap for me did his own ls/vtec swap and 3 others for other people, im geting the ls/vtec conversion kit from golden eagle, the headgasket thta it comes with is good? or should i get an oem one from honda, and yes i know turbo would be faster, but i dont have the money for it. Im getting the chip for now, eventually i'll move on to something better

 

well, if you plan on keeping your ls tranny there really wont be any point in shifting lower than 7500 rpms, you will drop out of vtec every single gear. I've put around 15,000 kms on my swap without a problem, seen 8000 rpms numerous times and up to 8400 rpms. arp rod and head bolts are excellent ideas, and to realize the potential of the swap HIGH COMPRESSION pistons are a must. From there u can drop in some itr/ctr slugs for oem reliability and tune up to 185-200 whp. have fun.

 

i agree. get arp rod bolts and you will be safe to go to 8k.

and i HIGHLY recommend a gsr or b16 tranny.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSvtec03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and i HIGHLY recommend a gsr or b16 tranny.</TD></TR></TABLE>
why, because going LS/VTEC means the end of the LS's naturally long powerband and excellent midrange torque production? oops, i'm in the middle of a bunch of Vtaks. i'm going to be pounced, post haste.

j/k. the LS tranny is really long and unless you're a torque monster (like me) you probably won't even like it on an LS motor. most straight LS people prefer B16 tranny or GSR tranny anyways b/c N/A hondas don't go well with long gears.

seriously though, for wanting to do things the RIGHT way and not just blow your motor up like a punk kid.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why, because going LS/VTEC means the end of the LS's naturally long powerband and excellent midrange torque production? oops, i'm in the middle of a bunch of Vtaks. i'm going to be pounced, post haste.

j/k. the LS tranny is really long and unless you're a torque monster (like me) you probably won't even like it on an LS motor. most straight LS people prefer B16 tranny or GSR tranny anyways b/c N/A hondas don't go well with long gears.

seriously though, for wanting to do things the RIGHT way and not just blow your motor up like a punk kid.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He said torque monster

Jason, you and I BOTH know there is NOTHING GOOD about the LS trans lol...other than gas mileage...lol. When I had my LS trans I felt like I had wasted my money on my LSV...honestly. It made good power but it took SO long to get to it. Bothered me. With my GSR trans...holy sh*t is it a different world.

And DEF props for doing it the right way rather than cutting corners...good job man.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DAantagonist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He said torque monster
Jason, you and I BOTH know there is NOTHING GOOD about the LS trans lol...other than gas mileage...lol. When I had my LS trans I felt like I had wasted my money on my LSV...honestly. It made good power but it took SO long to get to it. Bothered me. With my GSR trans...holy sh*t is it a different world. </TD></TR></TABLE>
no? i don't think it's bad. i think the fact that Japan sold the 180SX with 205hp and 200lb*ft of torque and had gears more like the B16-equipped Hondas should tell me something . . . but my LS doesn't feel like it needs shorter gears. i've driven a GSR with just an exhaust and maybe a header, i forget, and i didn't appreciate the gearing differences (or the power, and BTW, there didn't feel like there was any). i don't know, maybe if i drove a well done GSR or LS/VTEC i'd find the GSR gears more appealing, but then again that engine would more or less need the gears.

it's just that if i have an engine that gets strong just above 3000rpm and really gets hot at 4000rpm, i pull straight to 6900rpm and when i shift it comes back to 4500rpm or more, so i'm clearly staying in the power band by a healthy chunk. enough that i can always find the perfect gear for any corner, even with my long gears.

and what i really love is being able to stay in third gear longer. i can hit 81mph in third, whereas if i change to GSR gears i get 75mph. granted GSR 4th is also shorter, so maybe i could find a little comfort in 4th, but it's not much different at all, and right now without boost (mwahahaha ) i feel like over about 90mph is a waste of time. then again, my 240 doesn't do well over 90mph or so, either. call it jacked up way too high (stock) or just a tiny T25 that runs out of oomph.

 

maybe it was just the LS trans in my car...I really disliked it. as far as with boost...I think I would PEFER a LS trans...longer and easier than my GSR for sure.

with my lsv though, I stand behind what I said...I felt like I had wasted money with my LSV with the LS trans...SO ******* SLOW to hit vtec...now you could draw 5200-7500 (VtAk) out for SO LONG it made it fun lol

 

yeah actually i was already looking at buying the b16 tranny but i decided to buy the head so it got moved back on my part list, if im shifting around 7500 where will i land on an ls tranny and where on a b16? any ideas?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DAantagonist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> as far as with boost...I think I would PEFER a LS trans...</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, you wouldnt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSvtec03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no, you wouldnt. </TD></TR></TABLE>

why do you feel that a short gear would be better for boost? just curious, and so the thread maker knows for future reference...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaTeg95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah actually i was already looking at buying the b16 tranny but i decided to buy the head so it got moved back on my part list, if im shifting around 7500 where will i land on an ls tranny and where on a b16? any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

shifting @ 7500 you should be back at 7k depending on how you shift...at least I THINK that's about where I am when I shift 3-4 @ 7500

with the LS, I dunno...it's been a while...it will be considerably lower...like maybe 6500-6700 from a 7500 shift

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaTeg95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah actually i was already looking at buying the b16 tranny but i decided to buy the head so it got moved back on my part list, if im shifting around 7500 where will i land on an ls tranny and where on a b16? any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have a full set of rolling calculations in an excel sheet. PM me for your gear-changing needs.

actually, come to think of it, i really do like the very short ratios of my Nissan with boost for around-town driving. it pretty much means that i can use a high gear like 4th or 5th at only 30-35mph, and it also means that i can get boost in 3 different gears at the same vehicle speed. i get to pick from "hey, damn SUV," "damn ricers" and "whoa! was that a 997 Turbo?" it's also nice that anywhere above like 35mph 5th gear is fine for accelerating and such, so i don't have to downshift often from 5th. the down side is doing 4000rpm at only 75mph in 5th gear. what it does mean is that on the highway this car is EXPLOSIVE. i mean it's a f'in thrill ride! for the record, i get like 25-28mpg in the city driving in boost about half the time and i actually get worse economy on the highway. i'm not sure if that's because it's spinning 4000rpm and even just cruising i'm at 10psi vacuum or because a jerk gets in front of me or something, i slow to 60mph with him then boost back up to 80mph.

i don't know. maybe i like the short gears so much in my turbo car i should go back and put the B16 gears i have laying around into the teg. who knows? i might turn into a real rocket. only thing is now it's my woman's car, and she doesn't drive it like i used to. she likes having a car that is fast enough to trounce ricers; i used to like taking the long way to work and attacking the twisties at least once a week in the process. mwahahaha touge teg indeed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DAantagonist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do you feel that a short gear would be better for boost? just curious, and so the thread maker knows for future reference...</TD></TR></TABLE>
because shorter gears = quicker accelleration. it's just a simple fact. everyone says "the long gears keep you in boost longer" which is bullshit. long gears are keeping them in boost because it's taking longer for them to accellerate, and thus, slower than a car with shorter gears.

yes, you can have too short gears for boost, mainly because of traction loss. however, such a long geared tranny like an ls wouldnt be needed except in very very high power output situations.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSvtec03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, you can have too short gears for boost, mainly because of traction loss. however, such a long geared tranny like an ls wouldnt be needed except in very very high power output situations.</TD></TR></TABLE>
depends on if you have LSD or not i think, but i agree with the basis of the argument.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSvtec03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
because shorter gears = quicker accelleration. it's just a simple fact. everyone says "the long gears keep you in boost longer" which is bullshit. long gears are keeping them in boost because it's taking longer for them to accellerate, and thus, slower than a car with shorter gears.

yes, you can have too short gears for boost, mainly because of traction loss. however, such a long geared tranny like an ls wouldnt be needed except in very very high power output situations.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I knew the differences between the trans's... and I understand what you're saying...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DAantagonist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I knew the differences between the trans's... and I understand what you're saying... </TD></TR></TABLE>
i gotcha. every time i see some n00b say, oh, i want to boost. i'm going to need an LS tranny so i can stay in boost longer, i slap my forehead and lose all faith in the idea of people modding their own cars. it's like racing, getting to 6000 rpm in second gear and just staying there, saying, its so i can stay in boost longer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSvtec03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i gotcha. every time i see some n00b say, oh, i want to boost. i'm going to need an LS tranny so i can stay in boost longer, i slap my forehead and lose all faith in the idea of people modding their own cars. it's like racing, getting to 6000 rpm in second gear and just staying there, saying, its so i can stay in boost longer. </TD></TR></TABLE>
haha. what's happening is people buy a t3/t4 turbo to boost at 7-10psi on a stock motor, then switch to an LS tranny because the t3/t4 spools up so late they feel like they need longer gears. whereas a T3, T25, or T28 would have spooled up way sooner, had better turbine and compressor efficiency netting many horsepower back, and made them much happier overall. but no, they picked a truck turbo. nobody with a 4-banger should be using a t3/t4 for less than like 15psi.

 

I am currently running a B17A on my stock bottom end. Everything's running fine, except I'm burning oil like no tomorrow. But this has been the problem long before my conversion, so it's aight. Furthermore, a B16A tranny is a MUST if you are going to build a LSVTEC, I'm banging my head on the wall everyday right now for not having it.

Put together the whole thing myself, been driving around for 45,000km, not a prob. So good luck with your build!