anyone run 24.5inch slicks on stock axles????
just wondering cause i just switched form 22s to 24.5s and i still have stock axles in the car, had no issueson the 22s, but these 24.5s look so much larger and im getting nervous!
so anyone out there ever tried it?
thanks in advance
so anyone out there ever tried it?
thanks in advance
A lot of drivetrain issues or so called "luck" all rely on your setup.
Many things to watch for on drivetrain and lonegtivity on your axles are:
Alignment - A perfect alignment will ensure that you have an equal amount of stress distribute evenly on both sides.
Ball Joint - This takes impact on the upward and downward movement, lack of this or blown/leaky ball joint will cause vibration that will put more stress on the axles.
Traction Bars - Having a traction bars will reduce the forward and backward movement of your LCA, again, less stress on the axles.
Clutch - Not so much of a type but how you drive the car, dumping the clutch from no enagement to full engagement will cause a lot stress from momentum that the clutch created. This is why we always suggest of pre-loading the clutch at launch or burn out. Your axles are assembled with specific tolerance and clearance, this is what enable it to be flexible with left and right turn. Some race axles have tighter clearances that requires wider radius of turn and this is why most of full race axles are not meant to be driven on the street Not saying that you can't drive it on the street, but you'll experience some clicking that is normal for thsi type of application, depending on the material that the internal are made of and clearance. Back to the pre-loading the clutch. Because there are clearance that needs to be met, at no engagement, you'll have that clearance space empty, as you dump the clutch, it'll create a momentum before the internal is locked and engage. This is another reason axle breaks as well.
LSD - Limited Slip Differential, without it, one of your axles will spins first causing all the transfer of power to distribute UN-Evenly on one side, versus EQUALLY on both sides. Again more stress on one side, causing that side to break first before the others.
Ride Height - Your car has a specific ride height from the factory to keep the axles as straight as possible. Lowering your car will change the ride height causing the axles to bind (bend) at an angle. Again, angled axles will not be able to take more stress than a staright axles. This is why we enforced of having your ride height as close as you can to factory height. This goes to tire height as well.
Motor Mount - Having a solid mounts or inserts will help tremendously in keeping your engine from rocking back and forth during acceleration, tremendous engine movement will cause more stress on the drive train.
There are more reasons and ways you can do to keep your axles in the best shape as possible. These are just a few that I can think of.
Keep in mind, Axles does not gives you any power, does not make your car lighter, does not make your car go any faster or run more MPH, doesn't give you better 60 or 330. All axles does is takes abuse and stress and ensuring that you'll get to the finish line
So the more things that you can do to keep your car as solid and as straight as possible will ensure the longetivity of your axles.
I have seen stock axles handle 400-500 whp and runs 10's all day long, Joe Simpson is a prime example, I also have seen 500 whp axles break at 300 whp. Again it all depends on your setup, nothing more than that.
Hope this helps at all...
stan
Many things to watch for on drivetrain and lonegtivity on your axles are:
Alignment - A perfect alignment will ensure that you have an equal amount of stress distribute evenly on both sides.
Ball Joint - This takes impact on the upward and downward movement, lack of this or blown/leaky ball joint will cause vibration that will put more stress on the axles.
Traction Bars - Having a traction bars will reduce the forward and backward movement of your LCA, again, less stress on the axles.
Clutch - Not so much of a type but how you drive the car, dumping the clutch from no enagement to full engagement will cause a lot stress from momentum that the clutch created. This is why we always suggest of pre-loading the clutch at launch or burn out. Your axles are assembled with specific tolerance and clearance, this is what enable it to be flexible with left and right turn. Some race axles have tighter clearances that requires wider radius of turn and this is why most of full race axles are not meant to be driven on the street Not saying that you can't drive it on the street, but you'll experience some clicking that is normal for thsi type of application, depending on the material that the internal are made of and clearance. Back to the pre-loading the clutch. Because there are clearance that needs to be met, at no engagement, you'll have that clearance space empty, as you dump the clutch, it'll create a momentum before the internal is locked and engage. This is another reason axle breaks as well.
LSD - Limited Slip Differential, without it, one of your axles will spins first causing all the transfer of power to distribute UN-Evenly on one side, versus EQUALLY on both sides. Again more stress on one side, causing that side to break first before the others.
Ride Height - Your car has a specific ride height from the factory to keep the axles as straight as possible. Lowering your car will change the ride height causing the axles to bind (bend) at an angle. Again, angled axles will not be able to take more stress than a staright axles. This is why we enforced of having your ride height as close as you can to factory height. This goes to tire height as well.
Motor Mount - Having a solid mounts or inserts will help tremendously in keeping your engine from rocking back and forth during acceleration, tremendous engine movement will cause more stress on the drive train.
There are more reasons and ways you can do to keep your axles in the best shape as possible. These are just a few that I can think of.
Keep in mind, Axles does not gives you any power, does not make your car lighter, does not make your car go any faster or run more MPH, doesn't give you better 60 or 330. All axles does is takes abuse and stress and ensuring that you'll get to the finish line
So the more things that you can do to keep your car as solid and as straight as possible will ensure the longetivity of your axles.
I have seen stock axles handle 400-500 whp and runs 10's all day long, Joe Simpson is a prime example, I also have seen 500 whp axles break at 300 whp. Again it all depends on your setup, nothing more than that.
Hope this helps at all...
stan
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on my set up.....
lsd----check
traction bars---check
alignment---check
ride hight = straight axles---check
pre-load suspension---check
good list of sugestions for sure
</TD></TR></TABLE>
9's check...how's the car coming along.last i heard you ran 10.0's keep up the good work and keep bringing those et's down.
harv
lsd----check
traction bars---check
alignment---check
ride hight = straight axles---check
pre-load suspension---check
good list of sugestions for sure
</TD></TR></TABLE>9's check...how's the car coming along.last i heard you ran 10.0's keep up the good work and keep bringing those et's down.
harv
9's are right there.....i found some more power in the car, but then started having a high rpm missfire....checked everything fuel related, spark related, and even had somebody else look over my program to see if i was doing something stupid and not noticing it...but it all checked out OK. thinking the 75,000 mile crower valve springs might be suspect. if all goes well going to swap those out tonight and see if i can make it out to the track on sunday. breaking up at 7k rpm and above, shifting at 8grand, with bogging the 1-2 shift..and letting off the gas in the top of 4th gear the car went 10.6 but at 141mph......thats what i used to run MPH wise on a perfect pass......hopefully for nhra in jersey or ohio i can get this shitbox down the track a little faster haha
Stock Axles get
from me. I used to launch them off the limiter with the old slide foot technique back before I knew how to drive
. I've ran from 20" to 24.5" slicks on them as well w/ no problems.
Phil
from me. I used to launch them off the limiter with the old slide foot technique back before I knew how to drive
. I've ran from 20" to 24.5" slicks on them as well w/ no problems. Phil
thanks guys, like i said i have seen 11s so far on the stockers, with a good pre load launch and leaving at about 5500 on the 2 step and have had luck so far.
but i think i am just gonna go ahead and get some DSS stage 3s for the car anyways since i have the cash
but i think i am just gonna go ahead and get some DSS stage 3s for the car anyways since i have the cash
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks guys, like i said i have seen 11s so far on the stockers, with a good pre load launch and leaving at about 5500 on the 2 step and have had luck so far.
but i think i am just gonna go ahead and get some DSS stage 3s for the car anyways since i have the cash</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hehe I have my DSS Stage 3 for sale with hubs since I want to upgrade if you are interested!
but i think i am just gonna go ahead and get some DSS stage 3s for the car anyways since i have the cash</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hehe I have my DSS Stage 3 for sale with hubs since I want to upgrade if you are interested!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostfed.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hehe I have my DSS Stage 3 for sale with hubs since I want to upgrade if you are interested!</TD></TR></TABLE>
these are from a friend who just had them re conditioned, so its for a fairly decent price, probably otherwise i would never buy them!
shott me a PM with the price of them if ya dont mind tho!
Hehe I have my DSS Stage 3 for sale with hubs since I want to upgrade if you are interested!</TD></TR></TABLE>
these are from a friend who just had them re conditioned, so its for a fairly decent price, probably otherwise i would never buy them!
shott me a PM with the price of them if ya dont mind tho!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTErnie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I cut 1.66 60's on stock axles on 25" slicks...
switched to DSS 3's and broke them on the third pass...BOTH of them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
its funny tho, i have heard a few situations like this
i may swap mine and being a set of stocks with me just in case!
switched to DSS 3's and broke them on the third pass...BOTH of them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
its funny tho, i have heard a few situations like this
i may swap mine and being a set of stocks with me just in case!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stockers wont work with the stage 3 hubs though! </TD></TR></TABLE>
damn
damn
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stockers wont work with the stage 3 hubs though! </TD></TR></TABLE>
I was gonna mention that also
I was gonna mention that also
I've been running Stock Axles up until this weekend.
1.6 60'
10.6@140
MT 24.5x8x13
I broke a Bearing where my Mainshaft goes into the bellhousing of the transmission last weekend tho.
Get a good alignment for sure. All other stuff mentioned above helps a ton too.
DSS Stage 5's and Liberty Tranny for me now.
Corey
1.6 60'
10.6@140
MT 24.5x8x13
I broke a Bearing where my Mainshaft goes into the bellhousing of the transmission last weekend tho.
Get a good alignment for sure. All other stuff mentioned above helps a ton too.
DSS Stage 5's and Liberty Tranny for me now.

Corey
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95c1v1cs1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've been running Stock Axles up until this weekend.
1.6 60'
10.6@140
MT 24.5x8x13
I broke a Bearing where my Mainshaft goes into the bellhousing of the transmission last weekend tho.
Get a good alignment for sure. All other stuff mentioned above helps a ton too.
DSS Stage 5's and Liberty Tranny for me now.
Corey</TD></TR></TABLE>
LIBERTY TRANNY???
more info!
1.6 60'
10.6@140
MT 24.5x8x13
I broke a Bearing where my Mainshaft goes into the bellhousing of the transmission last weekend tho.
Get a good alignment for sure. All other stuff mentioned above helps a ton too.
DSS Stage 5's and Liberty Tranny for me now.

Corey</TD></TR></TABLE>
LIBERTY TRANNY???
more info!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
LIBERTY TRANNY???
more info!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hope to try it out this coming weekend and I will post some results and how I like it etc...
Basically i have no Synco's and the Main and CounterShaft are tied together to keep the shafts from spliting apart.
Thanks,
Corey
LIBERTY TRANNY???
more info!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hope to try it out this coming weekend and I will post some results and how I like it etc...
Basically i have no Synco's and the Main and CounterShaft are tied together to keep the shafts from spliting apart.
Thanks,
Corey
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95c1v1cs1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I hope to try it out this coming weekend and I will post some results and how I like it etc...
Basically i have no Synco's and the Main and CounterShaft are tied together to keep the shafts from spliting apart.
Thanks,
Corey </TD></TR></TABLE>
sweet. the tranny i mean, not the bearing bustin!
I hope to try it out this coming weekend and I will post some results and how I like it etc...
Basically i have no Synco's and the Main and CounterShaft are tied together to keep the shafts from spliting apart.
Thanks,
Corey </TD></TR></TABLE>
sweet. the tranny i mean, not the bearing bustin!
i ran stock axles for a while but broke a few so we went to the driveshaft shops. i went 10.90 with the stockers. but in the other hand completely destroyed a tranny this weekend at vegas because the axles didnt give. axles = cheaper than trannys. i guess it depends on your setup
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