As soon as i get an email back about the engine I'm hoping to buy, I'll be ordering it. Good deal, good price... blah blah blah.

The problem is I don't have time to install it right now. I've still yet to make my conversion harness, etc.

So, assuming this is a JDM crate engine and assuming winter will be here in a few months (snow and coldness where I live) how long can the engine sit in the garage without me needing to do anything special like manually lubricate the pistons, etc?

Or are they any special steps I need to take before I install it to ensure it works properly? I should have time to install it in about 2 months after the wedding and after I finish my basement.

 

i recently installed an engine that was sitting in my garage for 6 months. started up first try. just make sure u put some fresh oil in it or somethin right when u get it.

edit: im in california where cold=sweatshirt weather

 

I would crank it over a few times by hand every now and then. Just to make sure the cylinder walls are oiled up and not gather rust on them.

 

by "crank it up" you mean turn the crankshaft with a socket wrench?

That would be easy enough to do.

So put in new oil, and crank it over every so often. How does once a day sound? Also, this crate engine has less than 100km on it. Is it a good candidate for synthetic?

 

Any engine is really a good candidate for synthetic. Some people will disagree and say synthetic is thin and will go threw seals. But I have been taught by some of the best teachers out there, and they always said there were things in synthetic oil that helps the older seals, seal better.

And yes I ment cranking it by hand, I would say once every two weeks should be good.

 

as the member above me already said, I too had a motor sitting for a few months, more like 8 for me though, before installing it and it was perfect.
just make sure it's not sitting in a damp area or a garage or some place condensations gonna build up.

 

depends, is the motor completely assembled or do you have the head off or something? if it is still together don't worry about it, how long do you think **** sits in the junkyard before someone comes along and buys it, and you don't have to worry about the cylinders rusting dude, i have a totally bare block thats been sitting in my garage for a year and still doesn't have a spec of rust on it. the only down side to letting them sit for a LONG! period of time would be the seals breaking down and leaking. don't know how many cars i have bought that sat in someones yard for a couple years and do a little work to it and it starts right up. oh yea i live in missouri it gets pretty cold here.

 

Before you start it up, take out all the spark plugs and pour some ATF down each cylinder. Take the engine through a few strokes and then let it sit overnight.

 

sweet.

Now the fun part is going to be swapping an engine in my tiny garage in the middle of winter.

 

We left plenty of motors fully assembled sit for 2-3 years b4 we even put it in...when we do put it in a car it fires up w/o any problems...after that, we do the maintiance work on it...so it should be alright

 

F.Y.I. After swapping in any engine esp. a <FONT COLOR="red">Honda</FONT> engine, always fill with new oil of course but unplug the <FONT COLOR="blue">Blue</FONT>/Black wire plug on the distributor, that way it can't fire up. then turn it over and wait until the oil pressure light goes out. Then after you have oil pressure go ahead and plug the distributor back in and now the engine fires up and already has oil pressure. Do not unplug the distributors larger plug as you may throw a code by doing so.

 

Ive had a motor that sat in someones barn for a few years before I bought it. Then it sat for another 6 months before I put it in. It was the best motor Ive ever had in my car and Ive been through 4. Regret selling it to this day. I live in Chicago and we have very cold winters here. So you shouldnt have a problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Before you start it up, take out all the spark plugs and pour some ATF down each cylinder. Take the engine through a few strokes and then let it sit overnight.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whats the reasoning behind this ? I would not want atf on my cylinder walls.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Whats the reasoning behind this ? I would not want atf on my cylinder walls.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why not?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why not?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cause atf has different coumpounds inside of it. ATF is design to with stand some serious serious heat. I would just pour engine oil in the cylinder walls if anything. I see no reason why pouring atf in there over engine oil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cause atf has different coumpounds inside of it. ATF is design to with stand some serious serious heat. I would just pour engine oil in the cylinder walls if anything. I see no reason why pouring atf in there over engine oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also has detergents. ATF wouldnt be good for the cylinder walls.

use some marvel mystery oil if anything. It helps break the rust, if any that may have attached them self to the piston rings and walls.


but yes, turn the crank by hand if possible with new oil in the engine. itle prime the oil pump as well building up some oil pressure for the bearings.

so there isnt any air in the oiling system,

air-oil=Not lubricated=more wear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LaFawnduh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also has detergents.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

So does everything though, engine oil, fuel, they all have detergents in them. I still don't see the reasoning on why you would put atf rather then engine oil down cylinder walls.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So does everything though, engine oil, fuel, they all have detergents in them. I still don't see the reasoning on why you would put atf rather then engine oil down cylinder walls.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Not like ATF, you can use ATF like Gunk hand cleaner, its that powerfull, I know, ive done it. ha.

NOT only will ATF pull anykind of oil off of the walls, it will also 'clean' carbon deposits among other things, including Seals.

Completly washing the walls of oil is a bad idea. you want those walls to be as lubricated as possible. With all that **** that its cleaning off,it could possibly find its way between the rings and piston walls, and possibly scratch them.

 

just drop a few spoonfulls of any oil down the cylinders and turn it over a few times you should be fine

 

A guy I work with builds 1,200 hp race engines said using ATF is about the best you can use for an engine that's been sitting forever. He has over 50 years experience building and racing cars. Not Hondas, but that's a different time and place.

I've never done it, and i'm sure there's many reasons you can come up with to not do it. Do whatever you want.

 

youll be just fine if its in a dry place. water will kill it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've never done it, and i'm sure there's many reasons you can come up with to not do it. Do whatever you want. </TD></TR></TABLE>

In my best Cartman voice, "whatevaa.. I do what I want! I'm in 12 gangs! I do what I want!"