Its too expensive to replace and its annoying when the pedal rattles b4 the abs light comes on. Is there a way i can shut the system off without doing any damage to the car?

 

My other car had problem with abs too.... actually... everytime I had "hit" the brakes... it felt like I was going to have an accident... it wasn't very safe!!
So anyway... my mechanic drained all the brakes... the "bleeding thing"... checked for leaks.... fixed the problem... that was going to cost me one arm and two legs....
No parts were needed, the mechanic fixed the leak... ...and brakes work just fine!
And the annoying light of "abs"... turned off!

 

see the thing is that my regular brakes work just fine its just this abs light and pump that makes noise and comes on. killing me.

 

If it were an electrical problem, I'd say pull the fuse (the system would revert to "normal" brake operation.
With a leak, you're scr..ed. Unless you're willing to have some hack replumb the da... thing, or fix it correctly.

It's either that, or I watch for your obit'.

P

 

you can pull fuses and relays to kill the pump from making all the noise but the abs lite will still stay on ,,,,,,,,,i had same problem on a 90 acura legend and being my own car , i removed the abs bulb ,, to do so u have to remove instrument cluster ,,,,,,,a guy believe or not put a piece of black tape on the instrument cluster over where the bulb shines so he didnt have to look at the lite anymore

 

by the way you can have those modulator resealed , no need to replace the whole modulator assembly i have resealed a few of those and have had good luck ,a honda shop in your area should be able to reseal it and if they try to sell you one saying that the reseal wont last they are full of **** ....

 

Is it actually leaking? If not, bleed the ABS; maybe it's just air.

Can you pinpoint the leak?

Reservoir seal?
Accumulator seal O-ring #3?
Pump seal O-ring #2?
Actually, #2 & #3 aren't just the O-rings, but if the O-ring is what's leaking you can probably get just the O-ring.

In addition, I think there's a couple plugs on the underside of the modulator, which aren't really shown. I think there's a TSB or something about taking them out & re-sealing them.

Find a shop manual. There's enough residual pressure in there, you can get hurt if you don't release the pressure correctly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it actually leaking? If not, bleed the ABS; maybe it's just air.

Can you pinpoint the leak?

Reservoir seal?
Accumulator seal O-ring #3?
Pump seal O-ring #2?
Actually, #2 & #3 aren't just the O-rings, but if the O-ring is what's leaking you can probably get just the O-ring.

In addition, I think there's a couple plugs on the underside of the modulator, which aren't really shown. I think there's a TSB or something about taking them out & re-sealing them.

Find a shop manual. There's enough residual pressure in there, you can get hurt if you don't release the pressure correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

just to clarify, ABS bleeding should only be done by a shop, right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fw190bvi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just to clarify, ABS bleeding should only be done by a shop, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>I think that system is about the same as my '95 Integra. Bleeding is pretty easy. Bleed the main brake system first.

Find a hose the fits the bleed screw (#1 is the rubber cap) tightly. Stick it in a jar.

1) Open the bleed screw slowly, only just enough to let the pressure out. Careful, there's enough pressure to cut through your finger if the hose blows off.

2) Start the engine, run until the ABS pump quits running.

3) Refill the reservoir (remove cap #14 & funny vent insert #13).

4) Repeat 1-2-3 until you get no more bubbles.

5) Jumper SCS connector, read & reset ABS codes. (This procedure will probably set code 1 (ABS pump over-run)

 

not to hijack the thread....

i was justhing thinking of ripping out all the ABS stuff thats under the hood....just because it cluters everything up....so once i bleed teh ABS lines, i could just rip out everything under the hood, cap off the abs brake lines, pull the fuses and remove the amber bulb...id be ok then, right?...
would there be any issues with **** getting into the ABS lines (since it would be an open system), and then messing up normal brake operation?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fw190bvi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...so once i bleed teh ABS lines, i could just rip out everything under the hood, cap off the abs brake lines, pull the fuses and remove the amber bulb...id be ok then, right?... and then messing up normal brake operation?</TD></TR></TABLE>No simple answer for that. Service brakes usualy run thru the ABS modulator, so you'd have to do more re-plumbing than you say. Some newer cars use the ABS hardware for front/rear brake bias, so you'd screw that up too.

 

i have a hole in the bottom of that round thing (the thing on top of #3). all the fluid just runs right out. it rusted pretty bad. is this part replacable without getting the whole unit?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No simple answer for that. Service brakes usualy run thru the ABS modulator, so you'd have to do more re-plumbing than you say. Some newer cars use the ABS hardware for front/rear brake bias, so you'd screw that up too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks

 

From Honda, Yes (number 3 includes the accumulator (I believe) and the "o'ring" that seals it.

Refer here:
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...LATOR

"Accumulator set / Item 115641 / 283.12 List, 212.35 selling price

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just be sure if your planning on fixing it yourself, to remove the pressure in the accumulator,, do this with the engine off and pump the brake pedal at least 50 times, unplug the abs connector to the pump and bleed brakes as normal...have someones pump the brakes 10 times, hold down the brake pedal, while you loosen the bleeder screw at the caliper repeat until no more bubbles unless of course you want to risk getting shot with at least 1500 lbs of pressure im sure it feels as good as getting kicked in the ***** repeatedly

 

same thing happened to my car. I just pulled the fuse under the hood near the modulator that said "ABS". its a 100amp fuse I think. brakes work just fine and the pump never comes on. I do have the light on in the dash, but I got used to it.

I didn't know that getting the unit resealed was an option, I'll have to look into that!