i have a b16b and i would like to stroke it to a 1.8l using either itr/gsr/ls crank and rods.

i have done alot of searches (read through ~10pages of b16b threads) and couldnt find anyone that has personally done it.

the b16b block has the same deck hieght as a b18c block so either a gsr or ls crank/rod combo will work.

according to this thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=717928
with a ls crank and ls rods the c/r would be 12.8 to 1

and with a gsr crank and gsr rods the c/r would be 12.5 to 1.

^^^^^^^^ can anyone confirm these numbers ^^^^^^^^^^

EDIT:ill be using the b16b (pct) pistons that are in the block now.

has anyone personally put a ls crank/rods or a gsr crank/rods in a b16b block?

is there a difference between the itr crank/rods and the gsr crank/rods? (i plan to have everything balanced)

the final plan will be a stroked b16b (probaly gsr crank/rods.. if the c/r from above are correct) and good header (toda/smsp/hytech), skunk2 stage 2 cams and (insert a good valvetrain here ) an good intake and some neptune.

what bearings would i need? bearings to match the crank (i think)
gsr oil pump / water pump / timing belt <-- 99% sure on this
arp head studs? itr (since the b16b head is the same as the b18c5 head)

i am also keeping my a/c (im moving to las vegas soon, so i WILL need it). which bracket will i need to bolt my a/c compressor up to the b16b? delsol vtec bracket?

any advice from someone that has actually done this would be nice.
but be easy on me, im switching from boost to all motor

thanks in advance

please keep the "b16b's suck" or "just buy a itr motor" stuff out of here.
i have read the b16b/itr debate and im getting the b16b and stroking it (i am getting a god deal on a legit b16b)

it will be goin in this car:
(plus adding a picture gets people to read it)




Modified by llewsirc at 8:06 PM 9/6/2005

 

correct, either the GSR/ITR rod/piston combo or the LS rod/piston combo will work.
The CR's sound pretty close, but i dont know what exactly it is...
ITR rods have P73 stamped on them, not sure how theyre diferent either than the GSR's
Keep the same oil pump,waterpump,T-belt etc.Everything on the outside remains same..
There are numbers or letters on the crank. Honda has a chart that tells you what color bearing you need.There are also letters on the block on one of the corners. Match them up in the chart and you have your bearing selection. You should still measure to be sure though.
And yes, the delsol DOHC vtec ac bracket, stamped P54.
Everything youve said I believe to be true
Good luck with the build, I also have a B16B that I plan on stroking one day

 

thanks.

can anyone confirm more of this info?

 

bump for some info from someone that has personally done it

 

What pistons are you going to use for this set up?

 

Will you be doing time attack circuit racing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Colt Seavers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What pistons are you going to use for this set up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i will be using the stock b16b pistions that are in the block now.
i know this will make a big difference on the c/r, and i should of put it in the first post (added).


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chinese acrobat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will you be doing time attack circuit racing?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, just a fun daily driver and weekend track (1/4 mile) days.

 

up for the night crew

 

ITR P73 rods have a R stamp on the rod, not P73, it still has the P72 marking.

Yes you can install 87.2mm or 93mm crank.

Installing the stock PCT CTR pistons will net you a CR of 12.5:1 plus. You will need highee octane than 91 pump for daily use.

I believe you may need to shave the LS Rod about 1mm on the small bore end to fit the CTR pistons.

ITR crank/rods slightly more balance than GSR rods/crank, and I believe the ITR uses a slightly heavier crank than the GSR. If you are getting everything rebalanced, then it doesn't matter.

Change rod bolts to ARP.

I suggest that you go oversize to gain a bit extra cc's.

Just my 2 cents.

I had a B16B and installed balanced ITR crank, rods w/ ARP rod bolts, aftermarket pistons.

Bearings, just use the numbers and letter stamping on the block and crank to match bearings. Then use plasti-guage to make sure it is within spec.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llewsirc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump for some info from someone that has personally done it </TD></TR></TABLE>

personally done it few years back on a blown up b16b block.
LOL only did it for a street racer customer who wanted to brag that he only had a b16 motor (most ppl at the time didn;t know what B16B meant)

 

has anyone personally put a ls crank/rods or a gsr crank/rods in a b16b block?
YES

is there a difference between the itr crank/rods and the gsr crank/rods? (i plan to have everything balanced)
ITR CRANK IS HEAVIER ABOUT ABOUT 10LBS

what bearings would i need? bearings to match the crank (i think)
B16A/B GSR AND LS HAS SAME SIZE BEARING..

gsr oil pump / water pump / timing belt &lt;-- 99% sure on this
NO CHANGES NEEDED.

arp head studs? itr (since the b16b head is the same as the b18c5 head)
WHY NOT..

i am also keeping my a/c (im moving to las vegas soon, so i WILL need it). which bracket will i need to bolt my a/c compressor up to the b16b? delsol vtec bracket?NOT SURE..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHEETAH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

personally done it few years back on a blown up b16b block.
LOL only did it for a street racer customer who wanted to brag that he only had a b16 motor (most ppl at the time didn;t know what B16B meant)</TD></TR></TABLE>

except for the street racer part, im the same way.

id like to show people a 1.6 liter block, but have everything act as a 1.8
if i wasnt getting such a good deal on a b16b, i would have gone with a 1.8 to start with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vteczone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">has anyone personally put a ls crank/rods or a gsr crank/rods in a b16b block?
YES
</TD></TR></TABLE>
which crank/rods did you go with?
what did you use to tune it?
was it street driven (more then just to the track and back)
what octane?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vteczone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
is there a difference between the itr crank/rods and the gsr crank/rods? (i plan to have everything balanced)
ITR CRANK IS HEAVIER ABOUT ABOUT 10LBS
</TD></TR></TABLE>

is a heaver crank better?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vteczone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what bearings would i need? bearings to match the crank (i think)
B16A/B GSR AND LS HAS SAME SIZE BEARING..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
as long as the crank hasnt had any work done on it, i plan to do this.
would you recomend acl or go with oem honda bearings (rod and main)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vteczone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gsr oil pump / water pump / timing belt &lt;-- 99% sure on this
NO CHANGES NEEDED.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ill be putting a new oil pump/water pump/timing belt/tensioner on when i rebuild.
i cant exaclty get ctr stuff from my local honda dealer.
which motor should i order them off of?
gsr?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vteczone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arp head studs? itr (since the b16b head is the same as the b18c5 head)
WHY NOT..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
im wasnt asking if i should?
i plan to use arp's, but my question is, which arp's do i order?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vteczone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am also keeping my a/c (im moving to las vegas soon, so i WILL need it). which bracket will i need to bolt my a/c compressor up to the b16b? delsol vtec bracket?NOT SURE..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks

in all seriousness, thank you for your help.
you answered alot of my questions.

ill probaly im you about the specifics i cant get answered here.

thanks again

 

pm.ed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vteczone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pm.ed</TD></TR></TABLE>
replied.

vteczone has good knowledge of the b16b.

and is willing to help others

 

copy cat. i hate your guts. jerkface. you talked to jeremy today? i cant get ahold of that kid for the life of me.
X-eric-X

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by X-cement-filled-EG-X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">copy cat. i hate your guts. jerkface. you talked to jeremy today? i cant get ahold of that kid for the life of me.
X-eric-X</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think i am gonna go with ls crank/rods too

we will see the difference between your itbs and my ctr IM

jeremy had a bunch of neptune appointments this week, he called me last night ~11pm to look up a code for him. now he owes me

 

B16B

The only info I can provide is that the P54 bracket is what you will need if you want to retain A/C using your stock compressor. Good Luck on the build.

 

i dont have cams yet, so your ctr cam profile will make up for my weak *** b16 cams. itbs are gonna be so much fun. did you talk to that kid yet? when are we supposed to do this swap?
X-eric-X

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ej1times &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B16B

The only info I can provide is that the P54 bracket is what you will need if you want to retain A/C using your stock compressor. Good Luck on the build.</TD></TR></TABLE>
is that the bracket from a b16 del sol?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by X-cement-filled-EG-X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont have cams yet, so your ctr cam profile will make up for my weak *** b16 cams. itbs are gonna be so much fun. did you talk to that kid yet? when are we supposed to do this swap?
X-eric-X</TD></TR></TABLE>

i wont be using my ctr cams.
probaly skunk2 stage 2's
im still waiting on a final answer on the swap.

 

I am working on a B16B build as we speak, I am going with a GSR crank just for the simple fact that it is 2 lbs lighter than a ITR and I am sending it off to get it lightened, micro polished, and Balanced rotating assembly.

I am almost 99.9% sure that the rods from a CTR/ITR are Identical, it is just the stroke of the crank that is different

From what C-Speed C/R calculator says, .25 over PCT pistons, with just the GSR crank will give you 12.2 to 12.4:1 C/R........If you have a good tune you can run that on 93 octane

As for Bolts, Water pump, Timing Belt, and so on, I just buy all Si parts, (But the Timing belt must be a GSR for the deck height factor)

My buddy did it in Chicago to a fully stock B16B and he told me that it had real good torque, but the stock camshafts mixed with that high compression will not allow the motor to breath correctly.

Other than that I say go for it and keep us all updated on the build, I will be hosting pics of my build as soon as the block and crank are back from the machine shop

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5-lugHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
From what C-Speed C/R calculator says, .25 over PCT pistons, with just the GSR crank will give you 12.2 to 12.4:1 C/R........If you have a good tune you can run that on 93 octane</TD></TR></TABLE>

from what i have read here on honda tech the c speed calculator is off, it is normally to low.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5-lugHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As for Bolts, Water pump, Timing Belt, and so on, I just buy all Si parts, (But the Timing belt must be a GSR for the deck height factor)

</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was under the impression that all obd2 b series vtec oil pumps were the same.
can anyone confirm this?
if this is true, ill get the si one
if not, ill stick with the gsr

as soon as i get all the parts we are gonna pull the motor and rebuild it.
ill have pics of the whole process this time

thanks for your help.

anyone else have first hand experience?

 

i need a set of B16B crank and rods.... please PM me if you do this (or one of you guys has there old **** laying around)...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llewsirc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
is that the bracket from a b16 del sol?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes

 

My setup was a 99 B16B block, micro polished/balanced GSR crank oem ctr slugs on gsr rods. from what i was told gsr and ite rods are the same(according to acura's part # they are iddentical). It was on itr injectors, vibrant 4-2-1 header, 4.78 final drive, skunk2 plug n play ecu. Car never saw the dyno, didnt really have a chance, plus it had bad rings so i pulled it all apart again. I also drove on stock ignition for a while, but later upgraded to a msd sci plus, and a external coil.....probably the best money i every invested, the car pulled so much smoother from 6100-8700 obviously thats cause it was on a plug n play but with dyno tuning the car could have had so much more out of it. but yes , as 5-lug hatch stated it was really tourquey in the low end and had a nice pull all the way to 8700. with the 4.78 final drive, it seemed to almost rev out to fast like i wasnt talking full advantage of the power...the stock 4.40 might have been better. this was all in my pig heavy ek coupe. the worst part about it in my opinion, was the traction issues. ate up tires like nothin, netter have some good drag radials let me kno if you need any more info, i bought all the bearings oem from acura and checked the clearance on them myself........good luck man