My buddy's swap, pics and questions.
Well i started working on my buddy's swap yesterday. Here is what i've done so far.
Cars:
1993 Integra RS (donor car)
1991 Civic CX
He wanted the front integra brakes/swaybar put on plus the b18a motor.
I pulled both motors out last night and start screwing around with them today, i put the Integra subframe with the CX non power steering rack in the CX, then i proceeded to put the front subframe of the civic, however it doesn't line up perfectly with the front lower control arms? Should it be a direct bolt up?
Also, what to do about wiring they are both PGMFI motors.


And now for the rest of the swap












Cars:
1993 Integra RS (donor car)
1991 Civic CX
He wanted the front integra brakes/swaybar put on plus the b18a motor.
I pulled both motors out last night and start screwing around with them today, i put the Integra subframe with the CX non power steering rack in the CX, then i proceeded to put the front subframe of the civic, however it doesn't line up perfectly with the front lower control arms? Should it be a direct bolt up?
Also, what to do about wiring they are both PGMFI motors.


And now for the rest of the swap












cool man good luck, im swappin a b18a1 into my 91 dx... good luck with it man keep us updated... peace
what motor mounts are you using
what motor mounts are you using
i did the exact same swap as ive learned dont forget to fix the tps plug if you're using the original engine harness i was limited to a 15.1 at 87mph i fixed that so im hopin for 14s yo
1. why are you swapping the sub frames? correct me if in wrong but i don't think that will work and if it does i don't see the point
2. the dx motor is a dual point motor, the b18 is a multi point motor, you gonna have to convert it
3. you are aware of the fact that you will need hasport(or something like them) motor mounts, right?
4. your going to have to mod the shift linkage, of buy a custom one
5. if he wants the brakes from the teg why not just swap the rear trailing arm, front kunckles and prop valve, why screw with the sway bar/subframe
other than that i wish you luck, i will be doing that swap soon hopefully
2. the dx motor is a dual point motor, the b18 is a multi point motor, you gonna have to convert it
3. you are aware of the fact that you will need hasport(or something like them) motor mounts, right?
4. your going to have to mod the shift linkage, of buy a custom one
5. if he wants the brakes from the teg why not just swap the rear trailing arm, front kunckles and prop valve, why screw with the sway bar/subframe
other than that i wish you luck, i will be doing that swap soon hopefully
im afraid not, b series mounts and d series mounts are diffrent, but companies like hasport make it real easy thought it you have the dough
go to http://www.hasport.com
go to http://www.hasport.com
Dude the engine bays and mounts are almost identical i don't really believe i'd have to use other mounts.
And i transfered the subframe because it has the beefy front sway bar. The stock CX subframe doesn't have holes for the swaybar brackets.
And i transfered the subframe because it has the beefy front sway bar. The stock CX subframe doesn't have holes for the swaybar brackets.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alexandre! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude the engine bays and mounts are almost identical i don't really believe i'd have to use other mounts.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, you do. Go ahead and try to use the DA mounts if you want, but they WILL NOT work without cutting and welding.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, you do. Go ahead and try to use the DA mounts if you want, but they WILL NOT work without cutting and welding.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. S »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, you do. Go ahead and try to use the DA mounts if you want, but they WILL NOT work without cutting and welding.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2.
x2.
What kind of cutting and welding are we talking about here? I have a welder.
There is no way i want to spend any money on this $300 EF pos. If i can cut and weld, i am all ears.
There is no way i want to spend any money on this $300 EF pos. If i can cut and weld, i am all ears.
Speaking from experience
Doing it the right way the first time will save you soo many headaches in the future. Unless you are a "real" pro with a welder just pony up the cash and buy mounts. Plus it will be a nice addition to your already started project.
Doing it the right way the first time will save you soo many headaches in the future. Unless you are a "real" pro with a welder just pony up the cash and buy mounts. Plus it will be a nice addition to your already started project.
Yes, you need custom mounts and linkage hasport.com as well as a engine harness modification.... You use the dx harness on the integra engine, and modify that... its called dpfi to mpfi http://www.rywire.com
Ryan
Ryan
You should cover everything up before you start swapping. Makes things easier.
If you want go cheap, weld the mounts. And do the wiring yourself. But you will have to make them. And shiw, clean up your engines first.
If you want go cheap, weld the mounts. And do the wiring yourself. But you will have to make them. And shiw, clean up your engines first.
i used the street import mounts on my b18a into my ef, they are alot cheaper than hasports and i never had a problem out of em, get em
http://www.streetimports.com/products.asp?catid=96
http://www.streetimports.com/products.asp?catid=96
well i really dont knopw wat to say on this one.. i cant believe you thought the mounts were the same should have done a little more research..so as for starting off on the wrong foot i hope it all comes togethere and runs and hopfully this sint youre daily driver..
you sure have anticipated the swap thinking its going to be easy and a bolt in affair. do not weld the mounts you need mounts that are designed/copied that have good axle and motor positioning.
you can get AZRace motor mounts or Avid mounts for $150-175(for all 3) not $400 like hasport. Rywire has a nice plug and play dpfi to mpfi wiring harness worth the money($150 or less i think).
i see you spending another $400 to get the swap done quickly and properly.
<u>**every ef/obd0 owners dream converting to obd1 which you have a big jumpstart on.</u>
if you feel like spending and extra 110 to have your car run the right way with that motor. then:
well the 92-93 Integras were obd1 so you have the ecu/distributor and 4 wire o2 already on the motor all you need is the obd0-obd1 conversion harness available at jkobdconversion or rywire. for another $110
on to the free upgrade stuff
<u>for the front:</u>
use your civic front and rear crossmembers. you will have some bad positive camber even if you lower your car 3" you'll never get that negative *. i ran into this when i got the wrong xmember from a yard.
you dont want a beefy swaybar in front. only in the back you do. so put your rear xmember back on and steering rack etc. back on the civic. the front put back on no point in that being off. just swap over the integra knuckles and disc/caliber hardware in the front.
<u>for the rear:</u>
swap the drums to integra disk and use the integra Rear LCAs that have the mount for rear sway bar unlike your CX lcas so now you can use integra and aftermarktet swaybars.
you can get AZRace motor mounts or Avid mounts for $150-175(for all 3) not $400 like hasport. Rywire has a nice plug and play dpfi to mpfi wiring harness worth the money($150 or less i think).
i see you spending another $400 to get the swap done quickly and properly.
<u>**every ef/obd0 owners dream converting to obd1 which you have a big jumpstart on.</u>
if you feel like spending and extra 110 to have your car run the right way with that motor. then:
well the 92-93 Integras were obd1 so you have the ecu/distributor and 4 wire o2 already on the motor all you need is the obd0-obd1 conversion harness available at jkobdconversion or rywire. for another $110
on to the free upgrade stuff
<u>for the front:</u>
use your civic front and rear crossmembers. you will have some bad positive camber even if you lower your car 3" you'll never get that negative *. i ran into this when i got the wrong xmember from a yard.
you dont want a beefy swaybar in front. only in the back you do. so put your rear xmember back on and steering rack etc. back on the civic. the front put back on no point in that being off. just swap over the integra knuckles and disc/caliber hardware in the front.
<u>for the rear:</u>
swap the drums to integra disk and use the integra Rear LCAs that have the mount for rear sway bar unlike your CX lcas so now you can use integra and aftermarktet swaybars.
I have heard of people using the front and rear crossmembers (subrames) and you could utilize the the powersteering that way.
As far as mounting it in. My buddy was swearing by it but I still doubt it. He said he has done multiple b-series swaps in a CRX and never used a mount kit. He said it drops right in.
I have used b-series mounts kits. So I will so i am unsure on this subject.
-Shane
As far as mounting it in. My buddy was swearing by it but I still doubt it. He said he has done multiple b-series swaps in a CRX and never used a mount kit. He said it drops right in.
I have used b-series mounts kits. So I will so i am unsure on this subject.
-Shane
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecn8ive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as mounting it in. My buddy was swearing by it but I still doubt it. He said he has done multiple b-series swaps in a CRX and never used a mount kit. He said it drops right in.
-Shane</TD></TR></TABLE>
you gotta love them friends i got a couple of em. just like the 86-89 integra D16a1 is a boilt in affair.
-Shane</TD></TR></TABLE>
you gotta love them friends i got a couple of em. just like the 86-89 integra D16a1 is a boilt in affair.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PaImportTuner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you gotta love them friends i got a couple of em. just like the 86-89 integra D16a1 is a boilt in affair.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
In a 1g CRX and 3g Civic it is
well gotta replace a bracket and one moutn I think.
you gotta love them friends i got a couple of em. just like the 86-89 integra D16a1 is a boilt in affair.
</TD></TR></TABLE>In a 1g CRX and 3g Civic it is
well gotta replace a bracket and one moutn I think.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LShatchie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How many miles are on the b18?
I used the stock integra mounts and linkage on my swap into a 93 hatch, it wont work for 91? </TD></TR></TABLE>
wont work on the pre-92 hondas. but you can use a modified(shorten cut and welded) DA shift linkage.
92+ bolt in affair
I used the stock integra mounts and linkage on my swap into a 93 hatch, it wont work for 91? </TD></TR></TABLE>
wont work on the pre-92 hondas. but you can use a modified(shorten cut and welded) DA shift linkage.
92+ bolt in affair



