ok I took my brake caliper off to look at the pads, and they have like 80% of the pad left but they looked like mirrors, also the inside of the rotor only has like a 1inch wear crease both outsides havent been touched and have made a crease in the pad. nothings open today so I cant get any parts, now heres the stupid thing that I did, with the caliper out I pressed the brakes to put the car in nutral so I could turn the rotor, and now the piston is stuck out I think. when I put it back on the hub doesnt turn at all, and Ive been trying to put the piston back in for like 30 min with a clamp and its not moving at all. how th ehell do I get the piston back in?

 

use a large flat object as a flat head screw driver.. if you look at the piston there should be a + where you can stick the flat object and screw it back in.. i forgot if its counter clock wise or conter clock wise... i used a flat pice of scrap metal as my tool

 

Strange, my shop manual refers to using a large "C" Clamp to both retract and install the front caliper piston (for the 5th gen Accord)
I would presume the '93's were the same

The only place I've seen threaded caliper pistons was GM rear calipers which incorporated the E'Brake function in the caliper. The front's were conventional.

P

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dj14aZnS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use a large flat object as a flat head screw driver.. if you look at the piston there should be a + where you can stick the flat object and screw it back in.. i forgot if its counter clock wise or conter clock wise... i used a flat pice of scrap metal as my tool</TD></TR></TABLE>

you are describing a way to do the rear caliper pistons, and by the way it is clockwise to screw them back in..... the frt pistons are push in ,like p_adams says use a c-clamp to squeeze them back in ..
Stealth you might have popped the piston out that is why it will not go back in ..if so i would strongly advice that you replace the pistons seals or it will leak break fluid,,,,, just take piston out, go to dealer and get caliper overhaul kit i would do both if you got to go that route,,,,,,kit comes with inner seal and outer dust boot ,,,,,,if piston or caliper look rusty or you see any pits, replace caliper assembly ,,,

 

yeah my calipers didnt have any screw thing, anyways I got it back together and its still sticking but it sdriveable and im going to bring it to the garage soon

 

oh the front calipers? sorry i thought you were working on the rear ones.... u could take off your break fluid caps to help with the pressure.. also start the car up... and let the pressure fall.. the reason why its not going down is because theres to much pressure... like when you have the car parked and you pump the breaks... eventually they'll get so much pressure that you cant push it down anymore... all you do is start tehcar and theyll go back to normal.. try that start the car... iunno.. =/

 

I'd make the trip REAL soon. With a binding caliper you stand to not only have to deal with a pulling condition, but the brake pads will also wear out surprisingly fast. Let it go too long and you might be looking at rotor(s) as well (well, at least one).

P

I agree with deserthonda, if you have the funds, do both sides (both Right and Left). Reason?, the same condition that lead to the first calipers' failure exists in the second.
Has this car ever required the master cylinder being replaced??

 

well im just gonna prk the car for a while cause I Cant afford to drive it right now

 

oh yeah I did start the car to try to get the piston back in and I opened the valve and while the fluid shot out It was still hard, and wouldnt move

 

did you apply the breaks? cuz i didnt say to.. the fluid shouldve have shot out unless youpushed the breaks.. or compressed the piston
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