I'm contempltaing which block to buy to swap into my CRX. I've abandoned the idea to rebuild my built block mainly due to the fact that I am broke as a mother ******. I'm back in school and trying to finish that up, and combined with expenses I don't have much $ to throw around. So, I will be selling my built GSR block and buying either a stock B16, B18C1, or B18B1 block.

I'm just not really sure which to go with. If I can get 300 uncorrected WHP out of a B16 reliably with a 50 trim stage3 T3/T4 I'll most likely take that route.

 

Thats what I'm shooting for on my stock b16. I have a 57 trim though...bu to answer your question...

YES it can be done...tuning is the KEY to it being reliable though...thats why Jeff Evans is tuning my car

 

gt28rs

you want to bryson. hey owuld you sell just the bare shortblock? i might need one for a drag car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gt28rs

you want to bryson. hey owuld you sell just the bare shortblock? i might need one for a drag car</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, thats what I was intending to do. I only want like 800 for the block/crank and caps. It would take me a while to pull it though.

But, that GT28rs is a little much on the $.

 

you'll get the most torque out of the LS motor and torque = fun. I think it's the cheapest out of your selection too. 300whp tuned right and not beat on EVERYDAY will hold up fine....check my sig

 

screw the 28rs use the 2871r

 

No reason to spend $1000 on a turbo to hit 300whp. They are very nice turbos but when a $500 t3/t4 will do the job there is no reason to waste the money.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">screw the 28rs use the 2871r </TD></TR></TABLE>

28rs spools better, makes more power at the smae boost levels and has a nicer power curve

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, thats what I was intending to do. I only want like 800 for the block/crank and caps. It would take me a while to pull it though.

But, that GT28rs is a little much on the $. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what bore is it at now.. need an overbore?

 

aishifter at RLZ just dynoed a stock internal b16 and made 276 @ 8 psi...

 

I say go with the LS, its the cheapest. either motor can make good power reliably, and either one is a good choice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you'll get the most torque out of the LS motor and torque = fun. I think it's the cheapest out of your selection too. 300whp tuned right and not beat on EVERYDAY will hold up fine....check my sig </TD></TR></TABLE>

I personally like the of the b16 motor better....yes ls will make more tq but it falls flat too quick for me.. B16 rips to redline.

I had a stock internal b16 making 315whp for over a year...easy mid-high 11 second car on slicks..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

28rs spools better, makes more power at the smae boost levels and has a nicer power curve</TD></TR></TABLE> Bullshit! The difference in spool time is minimal the increase in power from the 2871r is very noticeable.

 

"Broke-*** mother ******" and "300 whp reliably" are very conflicting. It won't last long in stock form, even assuming its a great tune. The other problem is the 'uncorrected' requirement. That'd mean fairly high compression ratio (less dense Colorado air needs more compressing to make same HP), and higher IAT's.

IMO, that's asking a lot from the motor and the turbo.

 

i just made a little over 290 the other day on my B16 at 9.5 lbs on a .57trim .63AR t3/t04e

http://forums.evans-tuning.com...=2618

my other buddy made near 315 on almost the same setup but he's running a FR manifold and Skunk2IM.

Both cars were tuned by Jeff Evans

As long as you get the right parts and have a good tuner, you'll hit 300 hp

 

my b16 made 330whp stock head stock block.

 

in my sig

 

ny numbers in my sig. stock stock with ARP headstuds

 

267 whp | 198 ft-lbs or something like that on 7 psi with a mild creep to 8 1/2 at redline here. 3" dump off the turbo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"Broke-*** mother ******" and "300 whp reliably" are very conflicting. It won't last long in stock form, even assuming its a great tune. The other problem is the 'uncorrected' requirement. That'd mean fairly high compression ratio (less dense Colorado air needs more compressing to make same HP), and higher IAT's.

IMO, that's asking a lot from the motor and the turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I have another daily driver. This is basiclly my "fun" car. When I say "broke" I mean that I'm not going to be building up another motor, but I want and can only afford to throw in a stock block.

Your compression ratio argument doesn't really make sense, but whatever. I would just need to run a little more boost to get the same amount of HP as sea level. I mentioned "uncorrected" because if I showed my corrected #s assuming I made 300 uncorrected HP they would be well over 400 (5600ft). Uncorrected HP is the actual HP the engine is making. If these guys are making 300whp at sealevel, theres no reason why I can't.

Hrmm, those are great numbers guys, but the torque is kinda lacking. I wonder if it would be better if I just did the LS bottom end. I would be using my fully built/rebuilt GSR head with this block. Hrmm...Choices, choices.

 

You shouldn't really worry about TQ numbers in a high revving low displacement Honda motor. Tons of tq will just put the tires up in smoke more than usual.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You shouldn't really worry about TQ numbers in a high revving low displacement Honda motor. Tons of tq will just put the tires up in smoke more than usual.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ummm sure. . Rapidly changing torque will smoke tires not torque itself (too a point of course...remember stock motor)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ummm sure. . Rapidly changing torque will smoke tires not torque itself (too a point of course...remember stock motor)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, and the difference between a stock ls and stock b16 TQ using the same turbo is very slim (remember stock motors). I said large amounts of TQ in a daily driver street tire car will just smoke the tires. So if he decided to run a smaller turbo to gain tq down low your making boost out of the powerband of the motor which will result in wheelspin then no power up top, typical of VW's 1.8 TQ happy cars.

On a stock motor I ran 150ft/lbs to the wheels but still ran 11's. Plus the car was fast and controllable on the street. It's his choice what he wants to do I was just giving my opinion.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, and the difference between a stock ls and stock b16 TQ using the same turbo is very slim (remember stock motors). I said large amounts of TQ in a daily driver street tire car will just smoke the tires. So if he decided to run a smaller turbo to gain tq down low your making boost out of the powerband of the motor which will result in wheelspin then no power up top, typical of VW's 1.8 TQ happy cars.

On a stock motor I ran 150ft/lbs to the wheels but still ran 11's. Plus the car was fast and controllable on the street. It's his choice what he wants to do I was just giving my opinion. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow...I didn't know you only made 150ft/lbs! How much did your civic weigh with you in it? If I can get into the 11s with 300whp out of a B16, that will definetly be my choice.

 

Go with the B16...you will be happy with it for sure As nsxmatt said, a bunch of torque will only reduce traction. Hell traction on the street is already limited because we have FWD cars...B16 for sure...good luck with it