I was searching around and found some pretty good threads on all motor build ups. But mostly for B16 and B18C1. It's obvious that its going to cost more than an FI setup. Toda Sport has some pretty good bolt ons, but even their project Type R (http://www.todaracing.com/topi....html) only made 205 at the wheel. With quite a few parts.
I'm certain I want to get the toda headers, a better exhaust than what I have, cams, valve springs, pulleys, intake manifold, throttle body, stroker kit, and head gasket. I know this is no where near enought for the 300 but maybe 220 when tune with a hondata or apex.
A 220 setup would be a good setup for track, but wouldn't mind going further. If not possible without putting a hole in my pocket than I'll just stay at 220.
I really can't think of anything else I could do as bolt ons, execpt internal work. Any suggestion, or facts that can lead me in the right direction?

Thanks guy,
Josh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liquidscor00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any suggestion, or facts that can lead me in the right direction?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get a camaro, focus on power to weight (strip it), or lower your goals.

K might get you closer than a B.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liquidscor00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A 220 setup would be a good setup for track, </TD></TR></TABLE>

What track? Roadcourse (which is a track) as in HPDE's? Or 1/4 mile (which is a strip)?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liquidscor00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any suggestion, or facts that can lead me in the right direction?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think Chris pointed you in the right direction.

 

Track, I'm planning on attending the next expo. 300 is a lot to ask for out of B series. A K series would be easier, but didn't what to swap. Just something I was wondering if was possible. What the most you can get out of a NA setup on a B18C5?

As for in the Camero, lol My others friends are all about the american muscle. Always telling to go american, but love my R. Just want to do upgrades

 

This might be more what you're looking for..

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/

* Endyn's 2.0L @ 298.4 HP 01.2005
* How to Build a 2-liter Normally Aspirated Honda Engine 01.2003

Or just stick a blower on it and be happy with the torque.

-Chris

 

Thanks Chris, good stuff.

 

why stop at 300, how about a 315 hp b18c5?


315 Bhp and 198 lbs. of torque. JG Pro series B18C-5, 2000cc touring car engine.

Working rev. range 7200-9800 RPM. Motec M4 Pro fuel management, custom JG intake manifold and custom race header.


taken from jgenginedynamics.com

 

could you imagine the crossover?

 

My old B series setup had the best potential in making 300whp (race gas).

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1128963

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Integra21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could you imagine the crossover? </TD></TR></TABLE>


im sure it would sound beautiful...

 

Seems like 300whp NA would be mightily unstreetable. And when 220-230whp or so is pretty friggin fast, it also seems unnecessary, especially for a noob.

Note: No disrespect meant with the noob thing, but a track beginner with a very fast car is asking for trouble. If you're interested in improving your skill as a driver, it's better to start off with a slower car and learn to keep up your momentum.

 

Watch this thread https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1339161

 

Not possible strictly on pump gas. You can do it with a K series, but not a B.

If you found some way to do it with a B, it wouldn't last very long.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Seems like 300whp NA would be mightily unstreetable. And when 220-230whp or so is pretty friggin fast, it also seems unnecessary, especially for a noob.

Note: No disrespect meant with the noob thing, but a track beginner with a very fast car is asking for trouble. If you're interested in improving your skill as a driver, it's better to start off with a slower car and learn to keep up your momentum.</TD></TR></TABLE>


just like turbo cars, its best to learn with a little less power...

then work on making more. the only thing i can imagine making it difficult for you all motor guys is, to make changes, you have to open up the motor.


i know someone that has a 500+hp teg....and i dont think hes ever driven a car with over 300hp....its a good thing im not too fond of him. cause thats got bad news written all over it..

 

just spray it. It's cheaper.

 

You aren't going to get 300 whp out of an n/a b-series without spending a ton of money and killing your reliability.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pa_itr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You aren't going to get 300 whp out of an n/a b-series without spending a ton of money and killing your reliability.</TD></TR></TABLE>


youre gonna be giving up some of both if you boost too...

 

I put together a K series motor that dynoed 292hp -221 tq on 98 RON gas that is clost our own 93 octane. 300 whp can be attained fearly easy on kseries motors...

Look for threads made by edo. He has done it already twice on 2 different motors and is about to do it again with another combo...

Of course you are going to need ITBS for such numbers, a k24a block and a nice ported head with some nice cams and high compression pistons 89 or 90 mm with some strong rods. Crank can be 99mm , or less or more.

I am currently building another motor that will be dynoed on a local dynojet, at jeff evans dynapack and at jack's mustand dyno.. I want to make it very clear what is the power that will be coming out of that motor.

I expect 300 whp on dynojet, 300 on jeff evans dynopack and 260-270 at jack's dyno. 52mm TWM will be used, 89 mm wiseco, crower rods and a stock crank.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Seems like 300whp NA would be mightily unstreetable. And when 220-230whp or so is pretty friggin fast, it also seems unnecessary, especially for a noob.

Note: No disrespect meant with the noob thing, but a track beginner with a very fast car is asking for trouble. If you're interested in improving your skill as a driver, it's better to start off with a slower car and learn to keep up your momentum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No offense taken, I was thinking of that before I decided to go forward with this project. Why start off high, go in small steps. Thats why if its not possible with what I have now then anywhere around the lower 200 is fine with me. I can practice with that, and later on get something with more if not satisfied. But the Type R out of the package is a fun car to drive and is track ready.

 

cost will be close to:

$1850 for ITBS TWM 52mm
$1000 for head k20a2 rsx type s
$2000 for head work and valvetrain
$1000 for k24a used longlblock so I can throw the head away and use the block to sleeve
$1500 ERL performance Super Deck Block Sleeving Job
$500 wiseco
$700 Crower rods
$1000 cams
$500 on misc crap
---------------------------
around $10K for a fully built brand new 300whp K series motor that will run on pump gas