ok so heres the issue left caliper was sticking so i decided to change the master cylinder, which was bench bled by the way. i installed the new MC and now the brake pedal is really hard and the front brakes are clamped to the front rotors.
when i leave the car sitting for a couple hours they slowly unclamp then i could drive again but the moment i start braking the pedal gets harder and the car becomes imobile. i bled the whole system rr rl fl fr. yes i did swithc the front by mistake ill bleed again but does any one have a clue or ever had the same symptoms

 

had this happen to me once in my dx.........make sure u bleed all lines and fill with new brake fluid.................i changed master cylinder + proportionin valve

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zccrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so heres the issue left caliper was sticking so i decided to change the master cylinder, </TD></TR></TABLE>

why didnt you change the caliper??? what made you think a siezed caliper means replace the master cylinder?

anyway, heres how you test the brake system, straight from the factory service manual.


FUNCTIONAL TEST
1. With the engine off, depress the brake pedal several times, then depress the pedal hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, a brake line, wheel cylinder, or the master cylinder is faulty.

2. Start the engine with the pedal depressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is working. If the pedal height does not vary, the booster or check valve is faulty.

LEAK TEST
1. Depress the brake pedal wit hthe engine running, then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary while depressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is OK. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty.

2. With the engine off, depress the brake pedal several times, using normal presure. When the pedeal is first depressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, pedal height should gradually rise. If the pedal position does not vary, check the booster check valve.

CHECK VALVE TEST
1. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose at the booster.

2. Start the engine and let it idle. There should be vacuum available. If no vacuum is available, the check valve is not working correctly.
Replace the check valve and retest.

 

by the way i had chnged the calipers not to long ago at all, any ways im still having the problem but yesterday i changed my brake lines (guy at hondas idea)
i bled the brakes and on both sides but on the left side every time the brake was depressed i heard a clicking sound and if im not mistaken i think my back brakes were locking up as well its as if i was pressing the brake and the dont let go.