Do you need to use "heat resistant" paint? I know the valve cover gets too hot to touch with your hand but that doesn't necissarily mean it gets that hot.

The reason I ask is because obviously you have more options if you rattlecan it the normal way...

Milan

 

i advise that you definetely use high temp paint...there are in the market for a reason.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM PRO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i advise that you definetely use high temp paint...there are in the market for a reason. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah...painting bbq's and engine blocks....not for valvecovers

 

I'd say it gets pretty damn hot.

Mine as well so you don't have to do it twice

 

if u dont use high temp it will melt off and dicolor but its ur valve cover so what ever

 

i used 500 degree high heat paint for my valve cover on my d16 and it flaked and peeled off in a month...get good high temp paint and sand and prime good, i failed to do so the first time around...

 

My wrinkle paint has held up great!

 

I really need to get some of that crinkle paint where are you guys gettin it from?

 

AutoZone.

 

i didnt use high temp paint and mine looks great after a year... i did a lot of prep work at well so it wouldnt flake so it depends on how someone goes about it.

 

what did you do to prep it? What grit did you sand to?

 

I used 120grit and definitely use high-temp paint, I learned the hard way, and a trick for the lettering if you dont want paint on it, is to put petroleum jelly or vasoline on the lettering and the paint wont stick to it and when it dries just wipe it off. Good luck.

 

i stripped mine down to bare metal with aircraft stripper to clean it up. then i used sikkens epoxy primer and then base/cleared it. that was over a year and a half ago and its not peeling or anything and the heat hasn't hurt it. i also did 2 others with black wrinkle paint and those are also fine. i used a small piece of 320 and a block to sand off the paint on the lettering after the paint is dry, be sure to put tape about 3" around the letters so you dont scratch the paint.

 

oh ok. When I first did my VC I sanded it to try and make it shiny, but I want it black now.

I think I used up to 1200 grit, I suppose I sould rough it up with some 320 everywhere first?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18EG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh ok. When I first did my VC I sanded it to try and make it shiny, but I want it black now.

I think I used up to 1200 grit, I suppose I sould rough it up with some 320 everywhere first?</TD></TR></TABLE>

read the tech sheet for the paint you will be using and that should tell you how they recommend it to be prepped

 

All i did to prep my valve cover was strip it and make sure theres no oil on it.I used the black wrinkle paint u can get at pep boys..I didnt prime or sand it and it hasnt come off yet.

 

Body matching owns you.



No need for high temp paint. Hell you can even get factory paint from paintscratch.com and body match it. Black cars are easy

Just make sure you strip and sand it

 

i used the krylon army green camo paint on my old b16 valve cover and it didnt bubble or peel. i used the high temp primer with it though

 

A high temp paint is always a good idea, but not needed. Prep work is the key IMO. Great paint, crappy prep always = crappy final product. Descent paint, good prep = good final product. You will want to rough it up with some lower grit sandpaper since the 1,200 probably made the surface pretty smooth and you really want good surface tension for the paint to stick to. Good luck and have fun..