I have new tires on the way so I plan on getting an alignment before I have my tires mounted.

I was wondering if I should do the rear washer trick to correct the rear camber as much as I can before taking it in for an alignment? Would it cause any problem to have less camber in the rear than the front?

My car is just a daily driver lowered about around 2.25". The bolts I have are 10x1.25 45mm grade 8.8 bolts and three 3/8 washers per bolt.


Modified by chowmien at 2:28 PM 8/29/2005

 

did you search? please do there are a billion jillion topics on this and you dont' need a camber kit, go get an alignment and tell them "put the toe to zero" you will be fine

 

You want higher grade bolts on there, for starters. 10.9 is what you want.




Modified by El Pollo Diablo at 7:03 PM 8/29/2005

 

Yes I did search and looked through all of the topics before I went out and bought the bolts. I know that toe is more serious than camber. Just worried that camber might eat through my new tires quickly as well so I want to avoid it. I guess I'll just go ahead without the shimming and get it aligned.

 

Buy new bolts first.

 

If I shim the rears only then I will probably have more negative camber in the front than the rears. Is that desirable for a street setup?

 

Makes very little difference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chowmien &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I shim the rears only then I will probably have more negative camber in the front than the rears. Is that desirable for a street setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>yes, it's more practical to have more neg camber in the front, than in the back.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, it's more practical to have more neg camber in the front, than in the back.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, here's an example of the opposite. Not saying that this is better, just saying that blanket statements don't always hold true.

-4.75 degrees rear camber, +0.75 front camber. Font is out of spec, 2 degrees positive +- 0.5 is spec. Rear is actually in spec, which is 3.75 negative +- 1. 0 toe all around.


Now, I'm going to run my Integra around -3.0/-1.5 front/rear camber. Only time will tell how the Azenis like that.

And for the "camber eats tires" people, there's 10k miles on the tires and 3/4 of the tread left. Then again, I imagine my 155/80-13s have a bit more sidewall flex to help, especially with the recommended 21/26 psi.