Homemade Cold Air / Short-Ram Intake from Scrap Parts
I thought I'd throw this up for my first post here. This is my second upgrade on my 99 Civic EX 4dr. It's a homemade intake I put together over the weekend. I've read about all the intakes on the market and to be quite honest wasn't impressed, and I had an HKS Super-Mega on my 90 CRX SiR when I was in Okinawa back in '98 and loved it - except it sucked in dust.
..long story short, I used a K&N Style Filter-Head $25, HKS 3" Elbow cut 1/2" short and polished (had on hand), and a B18A 90 Integra Intake Factory Flexpipe $2. I also used a Subaru V-6 Hose Clamp to replace the TB Clamp - Honda's Hose Clamps are horrible - always corrode and strip out.
I relocated the IAT to the far-side and made a provision for the PCV Line and made a new line for the Valve Cover Line (not sure if this is a vent line or not). You can see this upclose in one of the pictures.
I'm kinda new to this, so anyone with any suggestions as to what lines are needed and what's not, let me know. And if you know what they do - I've haven't gotten ahold of a factory manual yet to figure the motor out yet.
This is a prototype, I just cut the board today and installed, and it's real rough, but I am going to find some thick plastic that doesn't crack, maybe a plastic fiberboard or something, and once I get the hoodline cut correctly, I'll be making the final box and adding the rubbing stripping and blocking off the openings around the box. I still have to make a partition off the front bumper to the radiator and scoop air to the inside behind the passenger front corner of the bumper for the intakes cold air source - should be slightly pressurized and have no radiator heat then.
Here's the pics.


..long story short, I used a K&N Style Filter-Head $25, HKS 3" Elbow cut 1/2" short and polished (had on hand), and a B18A 90 Integra Intake Factory Flexpipe $2. I also used a Subaru V-6 Hose Clamp to replace the TB Clamp - Honda's Hose Clamps are horrible - always corrode and strip out.
I relocated the IAT to the far-side and made a provision for the PCV Line and made a new line for the Valve Cover Line (not sure if this is a vent line or not). You can see this upclose in one of the pictures.
I'm kinda new to this, so anyone with any suggestions as to what lines are needed and what's not, let me know. And if you know what they do - I've haven't gotten ahold of a factory manual yet to figure the motor out yet.
This is a prototype, I just cut the board today and installed, and it's real rough, but I am going to find some thick plastic that doesn't crack, maybe a plastic fiberboard or something, and once I get the hoodline cut correctly, I'll be making the final box and adding the rubbing stripping and blocking off the openings around the box. I still have to make a partition off the front bumper to the radiator and scoop air to the inside behind the passenger front corner of the bumper for the intakes cold air source - should be slightly pressurized and have no radiator heat then.
Here's the pics.


Good stuff. If you make a platic piece that'll replace that wood, maybe you could make a top part for it, kinda like a roof for a cleaner look.
Ingenuity.
Ingenuity.
I agree, but I had to make a mockup outta something. I tried acrylic but it cracked too easily, and a shimming material that was decently thick, but kept getting sharp shards of steel, hands are torn up. So after looking for any other material in local stores (not many) I jsut gave up and pulled some wood sheets down from the attic.
I'd like to do this in alluminum once I figure out the exact sizing, but I got a feeling it's gonna be expensive for 1/8" or 3/16" sheeting - but it should be alot easier to cut.
I'd like to do this in alluminum once I figure out the exact sizing, but I got a feeling it's gonna be expensive for 1/8" or 3/16" sheeting - but it should be alot easier to cut.
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I'd honestly like to make it seal to the hood with rubber stripping. But your probably right, and it's alot of work sealing to that hood - ribbing is uneven at the areas of contact. Right now it's within 1/2" at the most from sealing - I took a mixture of flour and water in a ziplock gallon bag, layed it on the wooden partitions, and cut the partitions down to where they no-longer kept the hood from closing - took some time.
Just a heat shield. There's a 90-degree Metal Brace for the HKS Eblow just at the intersection of the two partitions. The wooden partitions are just functional as, well, a partition - to restrict the hot air from the engine bay from entering the area where the intake filter head resides.
Well it kinda got a little more hushed, but i felt a pickup in my midrange, and probably would have had some top-end too, if it weren't for my stock exhaust manifold and factory replacement exhaust (just bought this civic 3 weeks ago).
It was honestly a bit louder without the partitions, but I did notice it sounds more throatier - I can hear more of the valve actuation, sounds pretty badass though for a D16, I've only heard B-series sound this good.
I'd recommend a short-ram upgrade to anyone that owns a 6g, this has gotta be the best upgrade for making power right off the bat.
It was honestly a bit louder without the partitions, but I did notice it sounds more throatier - I can hear more of the valve actuation, sounds pretty badass though for a D16, I've only heard B-series sound this good.
I'd recommend a short-ram upgrade to anyone that owns a 6g, this has gotta be the best upgrade for making power right off the bat.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 8,203
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From: ROLLING PARANOID WITH A SMILE, ca, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good idea but that sheet of wood is hilarious lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
nah i think the pieces of paper to complete the seal is funnier...
nah i think the pieces of paper to complete the seal is funnier...




