PWO or PR3? im getting a new ecu...
so im replacing my engine for a new one...and i have the shoice between the two..my car is a 90 CRX Si and just wondering which one is better and what is the difference...
thanks
thanks
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get a z-dyne programmed ECU
i have one and i love it! once the car is warmed up no rev limit, no speed limit and it runs the car like a champ. TOTALLY WORTH IT! http://www.zdyne.com/
i have one and i love it! once the car is warmed up no rev limit, no speed limit and it runs the car like a champ. TOTALLY WORTH IT! http://www.zdyne.com/
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spcrxracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a z-dyne programmed ECU
i have one and i love it! once the car is warmed up no rev limit, no speed limit and it runs the car like a champ. TOTALLY WORTH IT! http://www.zdyne.com/ </TD></TR></TABLE>
Forgot to mention i also have a VAFC
I still like the Zdyne ECU tho
i have one and i love it! once the car is warmed up no rev limit, no speed limit and it runs the car like a champ. TOTALLY WORTH IT! http://www.zdyne.com/ </TD></TR></TABLE>Forgot to mention i also have a VAFC
I still like the Zdyne ECU tho
i have a chipped something OBD0 ecu in there now...should i just put the stock PR3 in there for reliability or does it matter. also can i just swap them in and out whenever or will that mess things up?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spcrxracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a z-dyne programmed ECU
i have one and i love it! once the car is warmed up no rev limit, no speed limit and it runs the car like a champ. TOTALLY WORTH IT! http://www.zdyne.com/ </TD></TR></TABLE>
Too much $.
Get a PR3 or a PW0 (I've run both) and have it chipped. Buy a Willems burner and do your own tuning with Turboedit. Have launch control, any rev limit, vtec engagement, etc etc for much much cheaper than zdyne.
i have one and i love it! once the car is warmed up no rev limit, no speed limit and it runs the car like a champ. TOTALLY WORTH IT! http://www.zdyne.com/ </TD></TR></TABLE>Too much $.
Get a PR3 or a PW0 (I've run both) and have it chipped. Buy a Willems burner and do your own tuning with Turboedit. Have launch control, any rev limit, vtec engagement, etc etc for much much cheaper than zdyne.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmyrex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would runt the pr3 over the pwo the pr3 is more aggressive fuel mapping</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh? They are pretty much the same. I didn't see any difference between the two.
Oh? They are pretty much the same. I didn't see any difference between the two.
The PR3 also has a higher redline and I believe* that most of them were designed for the Manual transmission cars whereas the PW0's were for automatics... I think I'm wrong and am hoping to be corrected... but I KNOW that the fuel cutoff on the pr3 is higher.
I have a OBD0 pr3 just sitting around.
I have a OBD0 pr3 just sitting around.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmyrex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if both are available for same price just go for the pr3
</TD></TR></TABLE>
they won't be. the PR3 is a far superior ecu for your application.. you WON'T find it for the same price as the PW0.
PW0's can be found for 50$ whereas PR3's start at 125$ and go for up to 200$.
</TD></TR></TABLE>they won't be. the PR3 is a far superior ecu for your application.. you WON'T find it for the same price as the PW0.
PW0's can be found for 50$ whereas PR3's start at 125$ and go for up to 200$.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice_classic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The PR3 also has a higher redline and I believe* that most of them were designed for the Manual transmission cars whereas the PW0's were for automatics... I think I'm wrong and am hoping to be corrected... but I KNOW that the fuel cutoff on the pr3 is higher.
I have a OBD0 pr3 just sitting around.</TD></TR></TABLE>
PW0 came in the JDM CRX SiR, and were M/T for the most part. I have never heard of an A/T PW0, though I don't doubt that there may be a few floating around.
Fuel and timing between PR3/PW0 is the same AFAIK, but you're right about the redline; My PW0 seemed to cut out around 8k, while the PR3 went to 8200. A simple chip can fix that though
I had mine chipped and readily tunable for well under 100 dollars, and that fixed it. I also think the PR3 had a slightly higher VTEC engagement too.
I have a OBD0 pr3 just sitting around.</TD></TR></TABLE>
PW0 came in the JDM CRX SiR, and were M/T for the most part. I have never heard of an A/T PW0, though I don't doubt that there may be a few floating around.
Fuel and timing between PR3/PW0 is the same AFAIK, but you're right about the redline; My PW0 seemed to cut out around 8k, while the PR3 went to 8200. A simple chip can fix that though
I had mine chipped and readily tunable for well under 100 dollars, and that fixed it. I also think the PR3 had a slightly higher VTEC engagement too.
Actually the PR3 seemed closer to 5k, and the PW0 seemed more like it was at 4800. And no the PR3 isn't "much" better, it's slightly better at best. And a quick edit with BRE will take away any advantage that the PR3 would have. So really the best thing to do is to get a PW0 and chip it, like I did.
my friend has a pwo and i have a pr3. i know vtec hits a 4800, ive done research. if you just gonna chip it, go for the pr3 anyway, there are more programs for the pr3, i know caus ive been looking into chipping it for a while.
SAVE your money. Get it right the first time and forget about upgrading down the road.... and all the bs with the JDM obd0 distributors used which usually suck $hit.
Just get OBD1 P28 and use hondata.
Just get OBD1 P28 and use hondata.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFSiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SAVE your money. Get it right the first time and forget about upgrading down the road.... and all the bs with the JDM obd0 distributors used which usually suck $hit.
Just get OBD1 P28 and use hondata. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I went OBD-I and used a chipped P06. I use Uberdata for my tuning, but I also have a wideband 02 sensor which really helped. It was pretty much vital for my new LS/VTEC.
If anyone wants a good B16A OBD-I bin, I can help you out. I have one that I ran a 14.1@99 with.
Just get OBD1 P28 and use hondata. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I went OBD-I and used a chipped P06. I use Uberdata for my tuning, but I also have a wideband 02 sensor which really helped. It was pretty much vital for my new LS/VTEC.
If anyone wants a good B16A OBD-I bin, I can help you out. I have one that I ran a 14.1@99 with.



