Finally joined the 300 club :)
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From: Memphis, Tennessee, USA
Finally joined the 300 club :)
First of all, I want to give a great big THANK YOU to the guys at Dynospeed in Memphis, TN for setting up the dyno day today for our local forums, Memphis Racing Scene. It was really appreciated and I know the coolers of drinks were a great addition as well. Keep up the great work, guys!
My long term project car has been giving me fits for the last two days trying to get it ready for this dyno day, but it actually made it. I know I wasn't the only one who was shocked to see it actually in the parking lot, then eventually on the dyno, just because of ongoing, nagging issues.
My previous dyno tune on the car was with a less than adequite water to air intercooler setup. It was VERY undersized for the application, and it shows, now that I have new numbers to go by. The best run on that setup was 264whp/193wtq. A pic of that old graph can be seen HERE. I upgraded to a Precision Turbo and Engine "600 hp" model intercooler; their mid sized core. It fit very well behind the bumper with some major bumper support modifications (done by Polk Performance. Thanks, Don) and some very interesting piping. Somehow it all fits in the engine bay.
The car didn't feel all that powerful on the way to Dynospeed because of the temperatures, I'm sure. I guess I'm just used to it, because the results definitely put a smile on my face.
Here's the new dyno plot:
325 whp / 226 wtq (the 261 wtq was a fluke on the reading)
And the car, for reference:
This intercooler upgrade was the BEST dollar per horsepower mod I've ever done. I have roughly $900 in the intercooler, piping and labor, and it made about 60 more horsies AT THE WHEELS at the same boost pressure as before. Not a bad investment at all, eh?
With a bit of tuning to get this down to about a 12.5 a/f ratio, and some relief from this HEAT, I can see 350 whp being not too far off in the future.
Engine Setup:
Stock b16 block overbored .5mm
STR blockguard
Eagle rods
Endyne/Wiseco pistons
Stock head
GSR cams
Strength matched stock/ITR valvesprings
ITR Intake manifold
JG 64mm TB
Inline Pro manifold
Precision Turbo SC34 turbo (.57 trim, .60 a/r compressor; Stage 3, .63 a/r exhaust)
Precision Turbo "600 hp" Intercooler
35mm TiAl wastegate w/ open dump tube
Precision Performance Custom 2.5" to 3" downpipe
Thermal 3" exhaust with test pipe
15 PSI
Thanks for reading.
My long term project car has been giving me fits for the last two days trying to get it ready for this dyno day, but it actually made it. I know I wasn't the only one who was shocked to see it actually in the parking lot, then eventually on the dyno, just because of ongoing, nagging issues.
My previous dyno tune on the car was with a less than adequite water to air intercooler setup. It was VERY undersized for the application, and it shows, now that I have new numbers to go by. The best run on that setup was 264whp/193wtq. A pic of that old graph can be seen HERE. I upgraded to a Precision Turbo and Engine "600 hp" model intercooler; their mid sized core. It fit very well behind the bumper with some major bumper support modifications (done by Polk Performance. Thanks, Don) and some very interesting piping. Somehow it all fits in the engine bay.
The car didn't feel all that powerful on the way to Dynospeed because of the temperatures, I'm sure. I guess I'm just used to it, because the results definitely put a smile on my face.
Here's the new dyno plot:
325 whp / 226 wtq (the 261 wtq was a fluke on the reading)
And the car, for reference:
This intercooler upgrade was the BEST dollar per horsepower mod I've ever done. I have roughly $900 in the intercooler, piping and labor, and it made about 60 more horsies AT THE WHEELS at the same boost pressure as before. Not a bad investment at all, eh?
With a bit of tuning to get this down to about a 12.5 a/f ratio, and some relief from this HEAT, I can see 350 whp being not too far off in the future.
Engine Setup:
Stock b16 block overbored .5mm
STR blockguard
Eagle rods
Endyne/Wiseco pistons
Stock head
GSR cams
Strength matched stock/ITR valvesprings
ITR Intake manifold
JG 64mm TB
Inline Pro manifold
Precision Turbo SC34 turbo (.57 trim, .60 a/r compressor; Stage 3, .63 a/r exhaust)
Precision Turbo "600 hp" Intercooler
35mm TiAl wastegate w/ open dump tube
Precision Performance Custom 2.5" to 3" downpipe
Thermal 3" exhaust with test pipe
15 PSI
Thanks for reading.
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From: Where N/A is Not Applicable
Re: Finally joined the 300 club :) (Adi Raaa)
Geez that is awfull lean!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Personally wouldn't run the car like that. 
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From: Memphis, Tennessee, USA
My motor is about 9.2:1. the high 13's/low 14's is VERY lean, I know. I'm going to break out the laptop tomorrow and put 15% more fuel in, just for good measure. I'll "tune it" next time I rent a dyno. This dyno day was just to see how it was doing. Now I know.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Mid East Deserts
Re: (SiR Kid)
cool!
how about your head gasket? are you using an OEM one? sorry for too many questions.
it's just that it's almost going to be the same set-up i'm going into. stock block with forged internals(same like yours, eagles and endyn slugs). also into an EF 
as a suggestion, i think you better use ARP studs to avoid head lifts later on, if you haven't any.
congrats! for your build-up
how about your head gasket? are you using an OEM one? sorry for too many questions.
it's just that it's almost going to be the same set-up i'm going into. stock block with forged internals(same like yours, eagles and endyn slugs). also into an EF as a suggestion, i think you better use ARP studs to avoid head lifts later on, if you haven't any.
congrats! for your build-up
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From: Boost is good
Re: Finally joined the 300 club :) (SiR Kid)
Holy ****.. >_< LEAN!!
Clean up the AFR a bit. Looks awful. Your Tuning sucks~! No reason to waste a good buildup and setup. Get some cleaner AFR in there assap! ( I am not bashing you, just giving you a hint, for your own good and for the sake of a DAMN NICE setup)
AIM for 400whp with that 15psi... 300whp is only for Pussies now.
Clean up the AFR a bit.
Looks awful. Your Tuning sucks~! No reason to waste a good buildup and setup. Get some cleaner AFR in there assap! ( I am not bashing you, just giving you a hint, for your own good and for the sake of a DAMN NICE setup)AIM for 400whp with that 15psi... 300whp is only for Pussies now.
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From: Memphis, Tennessee, USA
Re: (2point2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ef92b »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool!
how about your head gasket? are you using an OEM one? sorry for too many questions. it's just that it's almost going to be the same set-up i'm going into. stock block with forged internals(same like yours, eagles and endyn slugs). also into an EF
as a suggestion, i think you better use ARP studs to avoid head lifts later on, if you haven't any.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm already having a small amount of head lift, I think. I get a small amount of oil seepage from the distributor area. I really need to put some studs in there for safe keeping. I'm using a stock headgasket and I think reused head bolts (I know, I know, don't lecture me) right now. No good reason reason to change so far.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that looks nuts! what size ic pipes did you use?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The IC pipes are 2" ID from the turbo and then steps up to 2.25" ID into the intercooler, and 2.5" ID out of the turbo all the way to the TB. The piping is CRAZY tight in the turbo outlet area. We had to weld a 90* angle to the outlet, then run the puping right in front of the manifold. With a full size radiator, it's a VERY tight fit as you cna see from the pics in my for sale thread. I plan on getting a half size aluminum radiator, because the turbine housing being so close to the radiator is causing some overheating issues after situations like cruising for a while, then coming to a stop when everything's nice and hot in there. Oh, well. I just run the heater through the defroster vents alot lately. >.<
Money is thin these days. That's why the car is leaving. With a weeks worth of piddling with the car, and a few hundred more dollars, this could be a VERY fun. VERY reliable daily driver, but I'm just tired of turning wrenches.
how about your head gasket? are you using an OEM one? sorry for too many questions.
it's just that it's almost going to be the same set-up i'm going into. stock block with forged internals(same like yours, eagles and endyn slugs). also into an EF as a suggestion, i think you better use ARP studs to avoid head lifts later on, if you haven't any.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm already having a small amount of head lift, I think. I get a small amount of oil seepage from the distributor area. I really need to put some studs in there for safe keeping. I'm using a stock headgasket and I think reused head bolts (I know, I know, don't lecture me) right now. No good reason reason to change so far.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that looks nuts! what size ic pipes did you use?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The IC pipes are 2" ID from the turbo and then steps up to 2.25" ID into the intercooler, and 2.5" ID out of the turbo all the way to the TB. The piping is CRAZY tight in the turbo outlet area. We had to weld a 90* angle to the outlet, then run the puping right in front of the manifold. With a full size radiator, it's a VERY tight fit as you cna see from the pics in my for sale thread. I plan on getting a half size aluminum radiator, because the turbine housing being so close to the radiator is causing some overheating issues after situations like cruising for a while, then coming to a stop when everything's nice and hot in there. Oh, well. I just run the heater through the defroster vents alot lately. >.<
Money is thin these days. That's why the car is leaving. With a weeks worth of piddling with the car, and a few hundred more dollars, this could be a VERY fun. VERY reliable daily driver, but I'm just tired of turning wrenches.
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From: Memphis, Tennessee, USA
New stuff!
There's a video of my car on the dyno at the end of our local forum's Dyno Day video.
Mine's the last car on the dyno.
View it HERE
There's a video of my car on the dyno at the end of our local forum's Dyno Day video.
Mine's the last car on the dyno.
View it HERE
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: DFW, TX
Re: Finally joined the 300 club :) (synik)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by synik »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">300whp is only for Pussies now. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn it, your right Need more powa Good numbers man
</TD></TR></TABLE>Damn it, your right
Need more powa Good numbers man
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From: Memphis, Tennessee, USA
Re: (tuoniz)
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From: new york, n.y., u.s.
Re: Finally joined the 300 club :) (orangerex04)
i wouldnt go to the track running that lean a/f ratio. next time u tune the car try to get the a/f to about 11.5:1. i bet if u richened it up u will see over 325 whp gain. your airfuel looks all over the place. what r u tuning it with?
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From: Memphis, Tennessee, USA
Re: Finally joined the 300 club :) (boosted k20)
It hasn't been tuned since I pulled the water to air intercooler setup I used to run. This intercooler and piping setup is so much more efficient, the 11.5:1 a/f I ran on that intercooler turned into this 14:1 tune. I have banged out a desktop tune that should get this a little more under control, but short of re-dyno'ing it, that desktop guess is the best it'll get. I basically richened up the entire boosted band by 10%, and the peaks shown on this sheet by 10-15% more than that. That should get things much better under control.
