Another my swapped car won't start thread
I've searched and I hate these threads too but I suck.
89 Civic Si
OBD0 B16
Converted to OBD1 (OBD1 Distributor, 4 wire O2, Chipped P28, Harness)
OBD0 Injectors with Resistor box in place
this is a fresh swap with new plugs, wires, timing belt, etc..
Starts and runs briefly with starter fluid only
Main relay tested with multimeter ok - Fuel pump only getting 6V. Fuel pump wired directly to battery
I have checked:
Compression 180-200 all cyls
spark on all cyls
fuel pressure seems good (bought a gauge but it was bad)
Injectors all are within spec (multimeter)
Resistor box within spec
Battery to injectors I can hear them open and spray and close
When running off of starter fluid I throw a MAP Code (#3) - have a spare MAP sensor in the air (bought a known good one off of the h-t member)
Have adjusted distributor fwd/bkwd a few degrees just in case but no help.
Grounds are good
Brand new honda Fuel Filter
Removed injectors and cleaned with TB cleaner.
Basically.. I seem to not be getting fuel. I am thinking that its the ECU at this point. I bought a spare ECU that is on its way as well.
I am just out of ideas. As it runs off of starter fluid I think its got to be the lack of fuel. I do have fuel in the tank (about 1/3 tank) that is fresh.
Flame away but please throw ideas out.
Modified by urname7698 at 7:43 PM 8/28/2005
89 Civic Si
OBD0 B16
Converted to OBD1 (OBD1 Distributor, 4 wire O2, Chipped P28, Harness)
OBD0 Injectors with Resistor box in place
this is a fresh swap with new plugs, wires, timing belt, etc..
Starts and runs briefly with starter fluid only
Main relay tested with multimeter ok - Fuel pump only getting 6V. Fuel pump wired directly to battery
I have checked:
Compression 180-200 all cyls
spark on all cyls
fuel pressure seems good (bought a gauge but it was bad)
Injectors all are within spec (multimeter)
Resistor box within spec
Battery to injectors I can hear them open and spray and close
When running off of starter fluid I throw a MAP Code (#3) - have a spare MAP sensor in the air (bought a known good one off of the h-t member)
Have adjusted distributor fwd/bkwd a few degrees just in case but no help.
Grounds are good
Brand new honda Fuel Filter
Removed injectors and cleaned with TB cleaner.
Basically.. I seem to not be getting fuel. I am thinking that its the ECU at this point. I bought a spare ECU that is on its way as well.
I am just out of ideas. As it runs off of starter fluid I think its got to be the lack of fuel. I do have fuel in the tank (about 1/3 tank) that is fresh.
Flame away but please throw ideas out.
Modified by urname7698 at 7:43 PM 8/28/2005
All the things that popped up in my head you pretty much covered, and more. You said it had a code 3... I would check the conversion harnes. My friend got one that had 2 map wires switched around. Could be that or the ECU. Good luck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ham »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All the things that popped up in my head you pretty much covered, and more. You said it had a code 3... I would check the conversion harnes. My friend got one that had 2 map wires switched around. Could be that or the ECU. Good luck. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good point. I'll trace out the MAP wires. Would the engine run without the MAP hooked up at all? Just in case? I picked up the spare MAP since it was cheap and i was buying another part with it.
Good point. I'll trace out the MAP wires. Would the engine run without the MAP hooked up at all? Just in case? I picked up the spare MAP since it was cheap and i was buying another part with it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by urname7698 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good point. I'll trace out the MAP wires. Would the engine run without the MAP hooked up at all? Just in case? I picked up the spare MAP since it was cheap and i was buying another part with it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
One time I accidently started up a car without the vafc powered up (map wire will be open if its not powered) and it started and stalled and then wouldnt run. Some will run but like **** with no map. Yours will run with starting fluid... haha.
Good point. I'll trace out the MAP wires. Would the engine run without the MAP hooked up at all? Just in case? I picked up the spare MAP since it was cheap and i was buying another part with it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
One time I accidently started up a car without the vafc powered up (map wire will be open if its not powered) and it started and stalled and then wouldnt run. Some will run but like **** with no map. Yours will run with starting fluid... haha.
Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to the on position?? Also, I would try pulling the injectors off, and then trying to start the car- It may sound like a bad idea, but only try to start it for a second. Have the injectors sitting in a bucket or something. If they spit out fuel, then you know they're working, at least partially. A fuel filter may also be something you wanna check out, although I highly doubt that it could be clogged enough to prevent you motor from starting. Just throwing some ideas out there, good luck
~tim
~tim
When I swapped my GSR in my CRX I removed the resistor box. Maybe that's why your having fuel problems. I'm pretty sure to convert to OBD1 you have to remove the resistor box and solder all the wires together. Well, there's a little bit more to it than that, but maybe you can share why you used the resistor box first.
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i don't have the same setup, but i am currently throwing code 5, wich is the map sensor, but the mechanical part of it, code three is something wrong with the sensor, code five is something wrong with the vacuum lines. but, my zc does run with the code 5, although sometimes it will die after a few minutes. if you've got fuel and spark, maybe your firing order is wrong, that happened to me. the injectors were spitting fuel, and i had plenty of spark, but when i got it all back together, it was only hittin on 2 cylyinders, switched two plugs on the dizzy and it fired up fine. now, with my hf i have the extra vac line plugged which went to the egr, and it runs like **** and doesn't want to run. idon't know if that helps or anything, but it could
okay.. thanks to seks727 I know my ECU is good. I traced back each Injector to the ECU and each went to the correct place:
INJ1 -> A1
INJ4 -> A2
INJ2 -> A3
INJ3 -> A5
I tried to check out the MAP Sensor but saw this:
Black -> Ground
Green -> ?
--
White -> ?
Green/White -> Ground
Yel/Red -> D19
I couldn't find Green or White. Does anyone know where these are supposed to hit the OBD0 ECU? I'm guessing one goes to C11 (-> D17) and C14 (-> D21). I'm thinking these may be clipped or something as I couldn't find them anywhere on the D OBD1 connector.
INJ1 -> A1
INJ4 -> A2
INJ2 -> A3
INJ3 -> A5
I tried to check out the MAP Sensor but saw this:
Black -> Ground
Green -> ?
--
White -> ?
Green/White -> Ground
Yel/Red -> D19
I couldn't find Green or White. Does anyone know where these are supposed to hit the OBD0 ECU? I'm guessing one goes to C11 (-> D17) and C14 (-> D21). I'm thinking these may be clipped or something as I couldn't find them anywhere on the D OBD1 connector.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paopao »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I swapped my GSR in my CRX I removed the resistor box. Maybe that's why your having fuel problems. I'm pretty sure to convert to OBD1 you have to remove the resistor box and solder all the wires together. Well, there's a little bit more to it than that, but maybe you can share why you used the resistor box first.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what i thought too
Thats what i thought too
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solfly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">resistor box depends on the injectors</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what I read on here.. I've got OBD0 Injectors with the resistor box. I've got some OBD1 injectors I may try just looking at that as a last resort.
Modified by urname7698 at 2:40 AM 9/1/2005
Thats what I read on here.. I've got OBD0 Injectors with the resistor box. I've got some OBD1 injectors I may try just looking at that as a last resort.
Modified by urname7698 at 2:40 AM 9/1/2005
Black -> Ground
Green -> ?
Actually I guess this is the dashpot control solenoid valve?
MAP [ C 217 ]
White -> C11
Green/White -> Ground
Yel/Red -> D19
Found this at the end of the helms. Guess I have something else to try!
ok map is wired. Found that I had no EACV wired up so that is wired too.. still no start!! Arg.. any other ideas from anyone? I'm gonna rip out the injectors tommorow and swap in some OBD1 injectors and see what happens...........
okay fixed the EACV and the IAT. Now just throwing an occasion 41 (O2) code.. car started up and idled for a few seconds.. i gave it gas and it died.. kinda hard to start and dies when you give it gas.. anyone have any other ideas?
When the car starts, does it idle ok? What other erroe codes does it throw when you have it idling? It sound like you have a fuel problem. My injectors were sticky, they would click, but not allow proper amount of fuel. Remove them and use Carb cleaner on then. Using the battery, click them open and closed while applying Carb cleaner. Then use air pressure to blow them out. Do this several times until you have a good soild open and close.
Do you have an OBD0 distributor? Install it and try running an OBD0 ecu(most manual ECUs should allow car to start and run at low RPM). I think I ran my OBD1 ECU with an OBD0 distributor, it ran, but ran rough then threw CELs of course.
Do you have an OBD0 distributor? Install it and try running an OBD0 ecu(most manual ECUs should allow car to start and run at low RPM). I think I ran my OBD1 ECU with an OBD0 distributor, it ran, but ran rough then threw CELs of course.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by urname7698 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good point. I'll trace out the MAP wires. Would the engine run without the MAP hooked up at all? Just in case? I picked up the spare MAP since it was cheap and i was buying another part with it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Make sure you have the right vacuum line plugged into the throttle body. If your vac lines arn't right, you'll get a MAP sensor error. I ran into this problem too
Good point. I'll trace out the MAP wires. Would the engine run without the MAP hooked up at all? Just in case? I picked up the spare MAP since it was cheap and i was buying another part with it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Make sure you have the right vacuum line plugged into the throttle body. If your vac lines arn't right, you'll get a MAP sensor error. I ran into this problem too
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Modern91Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When the car starts, does it idle ok? What other erroe codes does it throw when you have it idling? It sound like you have a fuel problem. My injectors were sticky, they would click, but not allow proper amount of fuel. Remove them and use Carb cleaner on then. Using the battery, click them open and closed while applying Carb cleaner. Then use air pressure to blow them out. Do this several times until you have a good soild open and close.
Do you have an OBD0 distributor? Install it and try running an OBD0 ecu(most manual ECUs should allow car to start and run at low RPM). I think I ran my OBD1 ECU with an OBD0 distributor, it ran, but ran rough then threw CELs of course.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Only error code is the O2. I cleared up the MAP sensor issue when i noticed the wire wasn't soldered very well (previous owner). So no other error codes when idling.
I will definately clean the injectors.. I Tried to clean them with carb cleaner but not as you describe.. this sounds much better.
No OBD0 distributor or ECU .. so i'll have to suck it up for now and see what i can do..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GReddy4U »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you said your fuel pump was only getting 6v wired directly to the battery? that dont sound right. check your battery</TD></TR></TABLE>
6v when i run through the main relay. I have it running straight to the battery for a full 12V. 6v barely gets any fuel.. still trying to find a replacement main relay.
Thanks for the help. I'll update when i hopefuly get this fixed
Do you have an OBD0 distributor? Install it and try running an OBD0 ecu(most manual ECUs should allow car to start and run at low RPM). I think I ran my OBD1 ECU with an OBD0 distributor, it ran, but ran rough then threw CELs of course.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Only error code is the O2. I cleared up the MAP sensor issue when i noticed the wire wasn't soldered very well (previous owner). So no other error codes when idling.
I will definately clean the injectors.. I Tried to clean them with carb cleaner but not as you describe.. this sounds much better.
No OBD0 distributor or ECU .. so i'll have to suck it up for now and see what i can do..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GReddy4U »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you said your fuel pump was only getting 6v wired directly to the battery? that dont sound right. check your battery</TD></TR></TABLE>
6v when i run through the main relay. I have it running straight to the battery for a full 12V. 6v barely gets any fuel.. still trying to find a replacement main relay.
Thanks for the help. I'll update when i hopefuly get this fixed
if you want to get a relay....you can temporary use the one that is under the radio behind the center console...thats what i did...actually ran a lil better...i would try that


