Used a 600lb impact gun, that did not budge it. Used a 6ft extension on a pry bar with a 2 inch ratchet, thats right 2 inches.

The pry bar used to jam the wheel so it would not turn. Keep in mind, this was straight before it was used


The breaker bar and ratchet, these are not your little every day ratchet, the axle nut is in the middle, to give you an idea of how big those really are.


The axle nuts

 

So umm, did you remember to un-stake the nut before trying to remove it

 

wow you actually got yours off? i had to take the whole assembly to autozone to get that bitch off 2 u

 

and 1 more just to take out the 3 6's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So umm, did you remember to un-stake the nut before trying to remove it </TD></TR></TABLE>

Priceless. I just hope the guy said he did even if he didn't.

 

Make sure you soak those ****'s with antisieze when you put new ones on. Once you stake it, it wont come loose, but the antisieze will make it easy to remove next time.

 

i found the easiest way to lock the wheel from rotating is by putting a 10 or 12mm wrench in the top of the rotor inside the vanes and let it jam against the caliper.

i used to use a bar and lock it against the lugnuts, but that sometimes messes up the threads of the studs. yes, i put the lugnuts on too to help protect it. i just find my new method so much easier now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So umm, did you remember to un-stake the nut before trying to remove it </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol.

 

PB BLASTER ****! DO YOU USE IT?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So umm, did you remember to un-stake the nut before trying to remove it </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ronin150 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Priceless. I just hope the guy said he did even if he didn't. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That would do next to nothing. It takes very minimal effort for it to unbend itself.

 

Yeah almost no effort to unbend the tab it can help but almost no effort.

 

[QUOTE=90blackcrx]The pry bar used to jam the wheel so it would not turn.[QUOTE]

It's alot easier to do if you still have the wheel on and the car on the ground

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by messeduprex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's alot easier to do if you still have the wheel on and the car on the ground</TD></TR></TABLE>

It did not matter, the wheel would of still spun on the ground.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So umm, did you remember to un-stake the nut before trying to remove it </TD></TR></TABLE>

I do this for a living, probably the 30th time I took axles out, yeah I hammered it out.

And I used a lot of pb blaster on it ( even though I have my doubts on the stuff )

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i found the easiest way to lock the wheel from rotating is by putting a 10 or 12mm wrench in the top of the rotor inside the vanes and let it jam against the caliper.

i used to use a bar and lock it against the lugnuts, but that sometimes messes up the threads of the studs. yes, i put the lugnuts on too to help protect it. i just find my new method so much easier now </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a feeling the vents inside the rotor would of broke.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by N.O.R.E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow you actually got yours off? i had to take the whole assembly to autozone to get that bitch off 2 u </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, but what did autozone do to yours ? I got a bunch of idiots working at my autozone, I would never ever let them touch any of my parts.

And you have to imagine how much torque I was putting on there, I'm no little guy ( around 250lb ) and I was standing on the breaker bar and the extension.

I finally decided to use the cut off wheel to unloosen it.

I have a feeling these axles have been on the car since 1999, the passenger drive shaft looks pretty weird ( not a design I have seen on axles )

So these were on the car for about 15 years, in Chicago weather.

But I won, that's all that counts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i found the easiest way to lock the wheel from rotating is by putting a 10 or 12mm wrench in the top of the rotor inside the vanes and let it jam against the caliper. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats exactly how I do it. As a matter of fact, I just replaced my front wheel bearing, studs and lower control arm today, and it was all a breeze. I JUST NEED A CROSSMER NOW! check sig. But yeah always works for me, Oh and i use a breaker bar and stick a 5' pipe on the breaker bar. Hope this helps some in the future.

B.U.D.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF9Si-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats exactly how I do it. As a matter of fact, I just replaced my front wheel bearing, studs and lower control arm today, and it was all a breeze. I JUST NEED A CROSSMER NOW! check sig. But yeah always works for me, Oh and i use a breaker bar and stick a 5' pipe on the breaker bar. Hope this helps some in the future.

B.U.D. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was using a 4 foot metal tube attached to a 2 inch breaker bar, so it was about 6 feet in all. It was not moving at all, the car was actually moving more then the nut.


Modified by 90blackcrx at 10:37 PM 8/26/2005

 

... so you take em off with the car in the air? ive NEVER had any issues with em. not even on the 91 HF i took apart a while back with the original axle on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ch3mik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... so you take em off with the car in the air? ive NEVER had any issues with em. not even on the 91 HF i took apart a while back with the original axle on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a way of keeping the wheel locked, put a pry bar up against a jack stand, so the pry bar pushes down. I have tried taking them off on the ground, but if the wheel is on, you usually need an extension and when you use extensions the torque is lowered, also the wheel will just spin while its on the ground.

Plus the 600lb impact wrench usually takes care of them, but these were probably on since the factory. And I know this car sat for awhile on the street and with the Chicago weather, well you can be the judge.

 

o . lol. i was thnkn bout the weather as well. im in texas. i hear ya.

 

did anybody ever have the thought to have someone hold the brakes while you break the nuts loose?? put the car up in the air, and if you dont have an impact, turn the wheels hard left and lock the steering by removing the key from the ignition. grab a breaker bar,(my favorite happens to be my jack handle) and juststand on that bad boy while someone holds the brakes. piece of cake!!! after 12 years of swaps and front end work, this has never let me down. just make sure you turn those wheels so if the ratchet pops you dont wipe out a fender!!

 

&lt;----Just uses a breaker bar with a 32mm socket while the wheels are still on. Never had a problem.


Glad you got it off though (and PB works!)

 

I had to do that before. nothing would brake that damn thing loose!!! I broke a braker bar!!!

 

PB blaster will not help "break loose" a fastener. If it has managed to soak anywhere beneficial it makes it easier to unthread but its up to you and your tools to loosen it. I see people spray the stuff all over badly rusted bolts or nuts......usually just makes them easier to round off.

 

Wow...Sounds like the time I had to take my "gland" nut off my 79 Super Beatle. The VWs ue 1 giant 27mm nut to hold the flywheel on The damn thing wouldn't budge, I had to take the whole engine down to a Kenworth Tractor repair shop. The guys there thought it would be a neat challenge, they used a 1 inch 2500lbs impact driver on it. The nut never came off it actually exploded into 4 pieces!!

 

damn thats hella crazy hopefully the 3/4 inch drive im gettin should own the 32mm's

 

or heat them up with a torch, thats the easy way.