Does anyone know the specs for a valve adjusment on a d16a6 head?

 

i think intake is .007 and exhaust is .009

 

Intake: .007-.009

Exhaust: .009-.011

You know I've done too many valve adjustments when I know that off the top of my head

 

yeah, but whats that in metric...

 

It doesn't matter what it is in metric, because most valve spacer's have those specs right on the packaging. You can get a good one for between $5 and $10.

 

just picked up a 90 Si and i'm going to change the oil and freshen up the valve cover gasket/grommets and do a valve adjustment. i just read in the haynes the same specs (Intake: .007-.009
Exhaust: .009-.011).

Then I had a question so as any good h-t'er I searched first and found this thread.

I am used to doing adjustments on my 00 Si and the specs are
Intake: .006-.007
Exhaust: .007-.008

I realize the different motors have different specs, but whats up with the difference, in that the b16 has .001 of discrepancy and the d16 has a .002 range? just curious as to why the d16 has more room to play with, and what the difference in driving/performance would be by setting them at I-.007/E-.009 vs. I-.009/E-.011?

 

dood, i do my d16a6 to 6 intake and 7 exhaust. do yours the same. i do my y8 to 5 and 6. no one knows why my cars make power


Brett

 

very interesting. at this point i'm thinking of going within spec because it is a stock motor with 178k. i just got it and i need it as a daily driver until i get the 00 Si rebuilt again. i think i'll try the tighter specs next time!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sporkcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Intake: .007-.009

Exhaust: .009-.011

You know I've done too many valve adjustments when I know that off the top of my head </TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree with you on that one, but you know you do it alot when you buy the took so you can almost do it with one hand

 

Go in the middle 8 and 10.

 

i'm going to try to keep this thread on topic, but going into more detail. i got the car up and the oil drained and a new filter on. i got the wheel off. how cute - the d16's crank bolt spun inside the 19mm socket i had brought out. broke out the 17mm and now i got the crank spinning. its dark and cold out here. i spun the crank damn near twice before i saw any notch at all in teh pulley. it looks like 2 tiny notches on the pulley on the guides surrounding the alternator belt. is that about right? or should i be seeing more visible notches? ok i'm gonna pull the cover now... (got this on wifi in the garage for easy access)

 

ok so i decided to actually read the haynes before going further and see that to find TDC you have to pull the dizzy cap and mark the #1 cyl...is that the only way? well, back to it...

 

well i pulled the cap and the rotor is facing where the #1 wire goes...wish me luck!

 

why does the d16a6 valve cover have 2 threaded holes on the front of it and why are they not plugged up? the pics in the manual show the same thing.

well i only got so far- this car is too old and i need more rubber gaskets/seals/etc to continue. back to the honda parts counter...to be continued...

 

no ya dont, i dont replace anything when i adjust my valves. and i always check TDC by putting a LONG screwdriver down each of the spark plug holes and turning the motor by turbing the cam gear with a wrench. much easier than going under the car to turn the crank.


Brett

 

STD, can you elaborate? Do you watch the screwdriver rise/fall from the piston, and get it to its highest point? Because even doing it by the Helms I never feel like I have it perfect by just looking at the notch except for #1.

 

yes, i watch it rise and fall. when it gets to its highest point, its at TDC. BUT i use the cam gearfor reference 1st. line the cam gear up with the notch on the inner timing cover then drop the screwdriver into cyl one. it will be at TDC Cly 1. then, when done adjusting the valves on cyl one (always intake 1st!) then take the screwdriver out, drop it into cyl 3 and turn the cam gear 1/4 turn. thats TDC cyl 3. then do 4 then do 2. BUT MAKE SURE ITS AT TDC. cause remember, the piston is at tdc 2x. you know yer right when u feel a little whoosh of air come out. yer looking for TDC of the compression stroke. anything else u guys need?


Brett

 

wow, I wish I had had known this last month. The cars are both fine, but I wouldnt mind going in and doing it again with this method to get it better....but my poor back can only handle doing valve adjustments once in a while. I'll definitely be doing this on the autocross car sometime in the spring...thanks for the tip!

 

no prob man, ive found this to be the easiest way to adjust valves on hondas, single or dual cam

Brett

 

Very good write up thanks for spcs

 

so your saying if i do your specs my d16a6 will make more power?