My 95 accord lx is suffering from random brake loss every so often. Pedal seems to slowly make its way all the way to the floor, but not everytime, only sometimes, seems to happen most often when I start braking slowly, and then it starts reaching the floor pretty quick.. I just had my front pads replaced and my rear drums re-aligned, seems they where not functioning for awhile according to my mechanic I went to. Brakes worked fine till the next day. Was told I will likely need to replace my MC. My question is how to determine between MC, and Brake booster as going bad. Also what brand should I purchase. Read another post and was recommended to only use the genuwine honda part. anyone know what they go for OEM? I saw 1 on ebay for around $70 shipped brand new didn't say the name. Adler was priced at about $150, im avoiding the NAPA remanufactured stuff, simply because I dont' like the people there. I'm also planning on selling soon, but still want to avoid any installation problems. Oh and I will be installing it myself.. Thanks for any info..

 

do you notice any brake fluid leaking under your car? if so you should probably replace the Booster if not then replace the master cylinder. You can buy it around 45 dollars at advance autoparts, autozone, or o'reilys... Just take your old on in so you do not have to pay the core charge. Installation is fairly simple, just make sure you bleed the master cylinder before putting it on. I recently put a master cylinder on my car at 140,000 miles, accords are known for bad windows and master clyinders so I would replace it.

 

No Fluid anywhere, but I will double check again tommorrow. My car is now at 190k and my driver side window just quit to.

 

well you'll need a new window regulator also, you can buy those around 50 buck on ebay. Since no fluid is leaking, go replace the master cylinder its a cheap and easy fix compare to rear ending some one or loosing your brakes around a turn.

 

No Fluid anywhere, but I will double check again tommorrow. My car is now at 190k and my driver side window just quit to.

 

Do NOT pass go, do Not collect $200.00; but do get yourself to the local Parts emporium and get a new Master Cylinder (believe me)*

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1349794

"In effect, Brake fluid is alcohol based; and because of that - over time it absorbes water. Once it reaches a super saturated state (and can no longer hold the water in suspension), the water puddles to the bottom of both your Master Cylinder, Rear Brake cylinders, Calipers and Brake lines. And it starts to rust. The condition will continue to progress to the point where finally, the water will have rusted out a trough on the botton of what's supposed to be a circular bore. Now being egg shaped and irregular, the brake piston seals (in the MC) can no longer seal against the walls, and there you are -BYPASS-. The pedal goes to the floor.
Thats why, buried in the owners manual (we all read the owners' maunal, right?) is a note to power flush the brake system occasionally. I do it every 60k."

This is what you're dealing with

* for any other component, I would recommend going anywhere for it. But for Brake components like MC, Calipers or Wheel Cylinders, I'd recommend genuine Honda. (unless you're installing a "Big Brake Kit")

 

you can buy just as good of a MC at an autoparts store that has been rebuilt with a warrenty a whole lot cheaper then going to a Honda shop. I bought one for my car and works great and it only cost me 45 dollars. After you install the MC be sure to bleed it before putting it on, after that bleed the front then back brakes and they will be good as new.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supraccordlx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can buy just as good of a MC at an autoparts store that has been rebuilt with a warrenty a whole lot cheaper then going to a Honda shop. I bought one for my car and works great and it only cost me 45 dollars. After you install the MC be sure to bleed it before putting it on, after that bleed the front then back brakes and they will be good as new. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually you are supposed to blead the left rear, then front right, then right rear, then left front since your brakes are on an alternate route. i.e. FL & RR are one system and FR & LR are another.

Also to check the booster you simply pump the pedal with car off until it builds up pressure. Hold your foot on pedal. Start car and if pedal goes down then your booster is good.

I also agree to stick with honda. The warranty is BETTER.
A Honda is a terrible thing to waste!

 

I respect your opinion, but I'll stick to mine.
I'd rather buy from a sourse that I know manufacturers just brake components for a single vendor, rather than take the chance on some remanufacturer who uses used cores and casual labor to assemble these things for everyone and their brother.
I'm just drawing from my experiences with remans', perhaps you've had a better experience.

P

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supraccordlx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well you'll need a new window regulator also, you can buy those around 50 buck on ebay. Since no fluid is leaking, go replace the master cylinder its a cheap and easy fix compare to rear ending some one or loosing your brakes around a turn. </TD></TR></TABLE>

why do u tell him he needs a window regulator??? it could just be a fuse..a dirty switch.. diagnose, diagnose before you spend money ....

and Max.. as for the brake master ,,,read my lips, do not be cheap and install a reman brake master they don.t last long and a lot of times u got to dick around with the push rod adjustment ,,get a new one either from honda or an Adler brand they are OEM,,