Ok the problem is every once in a while when I go to take off from a light all the sudden it's like there is no power at all. The exhaust tone changes and is a little deeper and the car will go but very slowly like someone is holding it back and then all the sudden the power is back. Also I noticed when I was on a long drive to the beach, I was holding the throttle at about 4,000 rpms the car would everyonce in a while shutter like it wasn't getting fuel and then it would go away.

I searched and all the threads that I read (over 20 of them, seriously) weren't finished, people didn't say if they fixed the problem or not.

Things I have done to fix it: new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, timing belt, O2 sensor, new ground wires and power wires (just replaced the ones on the battery) and fuel filter.

Now I don't know what else to do, go and buy a new knock sensor? Drop the gas tank since the car sat about 8 months before I finished the engine swap? Clean injectors? Clean EGR valve?

PLEASE HELP...And I promise that when I fix the problem I will finish this thread.

 

If you've got 8 month old gas sitting in there, I would run it out and run a new tank through it first before saying anything for sure.

I really doubt it's that, but I noticed you replaced all the ignition components except for the plugs.

I would run a few bottles of injector cleaner through it was well, as it's cheap and easy.

Other than that, my next bet would be the knock sensor, as that's what my old hesitation ended up being.

 

Sorry forgot to mention that I replace the plugs. Also I have ran about 4 tanks of gas through it and two bottles of injector cleaner.


Forgot to mention that I only had a half tank of gas in her for that long. Like it matters it was still sitting in there.

 

I would like to know too. My 94 H22 just started doing this bogging stuff too around 2-3 k rpm. It only does it when its hot outside or when its at normal operating temps 1/4 or 1/2 way up on the temp gauge. so im thinking it might be an overactive knock sensor or something but you'd think it would do it at all rpm ranges then so im stumped. I have no Check engine lights , so something must be going on once the ecu goes into closed loop.Could the knock sensor be sending back false frequency readings, but why at only 2-3k or where ever your car boggs at. Who knows? Could a knock sensor go bad and not trigger a cel? I read in a past post about this bogging issue and one person fixed his by buying a new knock sensor. Anyone have any other ideas?

 

i am also experiencing similiar problem... ive done everything he's done aswell and no luck... mine isnt really bad, but noticible... and intermettined.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpeedFreak77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The exhaust tone changes and is a little deeper and the car will go but very slowly like someone is holding it back and then all the sudden the power is back. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, I have the same exact problem every once in a while. I have throw a CEL, but it is pointing to the VTEC oil pressure switch.

I believe someone fixed their hesitation issue by replacing the knock sensor. That's what I am going to do next.

I bought an O2 sensor too but i have yet to install it. I am going to replace it anyway since I am changing out my header downpipe anyway.

 

I've already replaced Dizzy,plugs,wires,coil,denso o2 sensor,checked injector resistor, checked injectors for correct resistence, fuel filter.

 

Does anyone know where to get an OEM knock sensor other than at the dealer? I don't want to spend $154 on a knock sensor. I am going to clean my egr valve this weekend, but I highly doubt that it is that. Any other input on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

I have been trying to troubleshoot this issue too. When it starts to act up, it is as if the timing is altered. The only thing that can alter the timing would be a defective knock sensor that tells the ECU to retard the timing.

My question is when my CEL comes on, why does it give me an error code for the VTEC oil pressure switch? *shrugs*

All I know is I never had this problem with my old H23. It has to be something on the engine. It can't be the fuel pump, fuel filter, coil, or distributor, dist. cap, or rotor.

 

im leaning towards KS as well ...gettiing a different ecu with no knock(p28/p08) was a good move on my part ..this of course requiers some type of tunning but youll only spend a little more then if you got the knock from the dealer .

 

have any of you guys ever tried replacing the spark plugs, and gapping them to .32 - .30??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpeedFreak77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone know where to get an OEM knock sensor other than at the dealer? I don't want to spend $154 on a knock sensor. I am going to clean my egr valve this weekend, but I highly doubt that it is that. Any other input on this would be greatly appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can get them from a autozone, CAP, napa, etc. but they are only slightly cheaper. I priced around and they range from about $120 to $135.
I would have spent the extra just to stay oem, but the dealer would have had to order it and napa had one in stock.

 

So say I decided to go with a Hondata setup and p72 ecu, besides the cost of the p72 does anyone know an approximate cost on the Hondata, and how long it takes to have it tuned?

You can have the knock sensor eliminated this way correct? or would I have to go with a different ecu?

 

its not the knock sensor guys, i drove my car with a broken sensor and it drove fine.. hesitation is due to the ignition

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mykizism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not the knock sensor guys, i drove my car with a broken sensor and it drove fine.. hesitation is due to the ignition</TD></TR></TABLE>

The knock sensor circuit controls the ignition timing.

A busted knock sensor will be busted period. A malfunctioning knock sensor will keep shooting voltages showing knock when there's no knock, causing timing to be pulled. It can still be the knock sensor.

Also, when I replaced mine, NAPA was the cheapest, but only if you wait like 1-2 weeks for it to be shipped in.

 

My ignition is all brand new , and its not like its a misfire, its a bogging hesitation. If it was ignition related wouldnt it do this at all rpm ranges and not between 2-3rpm? Same with fuel, although could our fuel pressure regulators be faulty?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, when I replaced mine, NAPA was the cheapest, but only if you wait like 1-2 weeks for it to be shipped in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did your new knock sensor fix your bogging?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steveobb4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Did your new knock sensor fix your bogging?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup. Although it did the same one time when I know for a fact that I leaned out too much and knocked, causing timing to be pulled.

Our regulators almost never go out, so I would count that out, unless you have a vacuum leak going to it....but that wouldn't cause those symptoms, IMO.

And bad ignition, will cause a pretty constant misfire, with plugs usually being worse at higher RPM's and higher loads.

 

I did a vaccum test and got 23 inches of Hg(mercury) so i have no leaks. Thanks though and i wil most likely be purchasing a knock sensor soon and see if it fixes mine too.

 

good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mykizism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not the knock sensor guys, i drove my car with a broken sensor and it drove fine.. hesitation is due to the ignition</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And bad ignition, will cause a pretty constant misfire, with plugs usually being worse at higher RPM's and higher loads.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My car will bog at lower RPM but will clear up when I get to about 4300 RPM and when VTEC kicks in, it runs fine. I only notice the bogging at lower rpm.

Also, I get that weird exhaust noise too.

Steve, as I said, my dist. cap, rotor, distributor, and all the other ignition related items NOT on the motor were used on my H23, which ran perfectly fine. I have new plugs and wires on the H22, too. The only other thing I can think of is the knock sensor, right?

 

Andy, you're using the KS that came with the new motor? You still got the old motor sitting around?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Andy, you're using the KS that came with the new motor? You still got the old motor sitting around?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I am using the KS that came with my motor. I don't have the old motor. If I did, i would've pulled the KS of that motor and put it on my H22.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, I am using the KS that came with my motor. I don't have the old motor. If I did, i would've pulled the KS of that motor and put it on my H22. </TD></TR></TABLE>



I wonder what the ECU looks for as the steady-signal, when not knocking.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My car will bog at lower RPM but will clear up when I get to about 4300 RPM and when VTEC kicks in, it runs fine. I only notice the bogging at lower rpm.

Also, I get that weird exhaust noise too.

Steve, as I said, my dist. cap, rotor, distributor, and all the other ignition related items NOT on the motor were used on my H23, which ran perfectly fine. I have new plugs and wires on the H22, too. The only other thing I can think of is the knock sensor, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah my car bog's a little in the lower RPM, i get exhaust noise too etc.. i just thought it was because of my 1 1/4 ehxaust pipe

i've replaced knock sensor, msd wires, ngk plugs, dizzy cap & rotor, ignition switch, vtec solenoid gasket, and every other gasket on that engine. and it still does that....lately my CEL (check engine light) has been coming on, but its intermittent....usually when i'm cornering in higher rpm's.