Another noobie asking about oil....
Well guys i got a question about oil (surprise, surprise!) I recently bought a 95 gsr with 130 k and live in the ungodly heat of Dallas, Tx. My question is what is the best motor oil to use for my stock set up? Ive searched and searched but sometimes the answer doesn't want to present itself. HELP!!! NEED ADVICE!!! This is a repeated question i know but i just cant seem to find a straight answer.
not sure if it helps but i was told to stick with what the factory requires. the japanese people designed these motors to use 5w30 if im not mistaking. i thoght with more miles you would want thicker, due to the rings wearing over time. good luck bro
5w 30 is what is recommended from factory for your car but since it is an older vehicle use 10w 30. Most people are going to say to switch to synthetic. I've thought about it but im just gonna stick with 10w 30.
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My recommendation would be to run a quality "high-mileage" 5W-30 oil such as Pennzoil High Mileage Vehicle, Valvoline MaxLife, etc.
Switching to synthetic oil is not something I'd personally do at this stage in the motor's life (though I run conventional oil on all my vehicles).
Switching to synthetic oil is not something I'd personally do at this stage in the motor's life (though I run conventional oil on all my vehicles).
You DO know that some of the high-mileage oils use a synthetic ester as a seal conditioner, don't you? 
10W-30 is a tad more stable than 5W-30 ... but there's not a world's difference. As far south as you are, I'd use the 10W-30.
Becasue of their Group II+ base oils and heavy additive packages, I'd go with Chevron Supreme, Texaco Havoline or Pennzoil Purebase.

10W-30 is a tad more stable than 5W-30 ... but there's not a world's difference. As far south as you are, I'd use the 10W-30.
Becasue of their Group II+ base oils and heavy additive packages, I'd go with Chevron Supreme, Texaco Havoline or Pennzoil Purebase.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bror Jace »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You DO know that some of the high-mileage oils use a synthetic ester as a seal conditioner, don't you?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You'll probably agree that a conventional oil with certain synthetic additives is not equivalent to a "full synthetic" (placing aside arguments about the validity of applying that term to most common synthetic oils). Plenty of people switch to synthetic oil in the later stages of a motor's life, but it's just not something I would do myself, for various reasons.
</TD></TR></TABLE>You'll probably agree that a conventional oil with certain synthetic additives is not equivalent to a "full synthetic" (placing aside arguments about the validity of applying that term to most common synthetic oils). Plenty of people switch to synthetic oil in the later stages of a motor's life, but it's just not something I would do myself, for various reasons.
I've been using the conventional stuff and i have 186,000 miles now...never had a problem, just change oil like u should. (i'm using Mobil 5w30 nd 10w30 depending on time of year)
Padawan, I guess my point is that people fear "synthetics" in high-mileage engines without really knowing why, etc ...
Early PAO-type synthetics (Mobil 1, Amsoil, etc ... Group IV synthetic oil) were not formulated as well as they could have been (live and learn, I guess) and were not seal-friendly in some engines already prone to leaking. They balanced this a number of ways, one of which was to use a synthetic ester (Group V synthetic) to condition the seals and reduce leaking in ALL engines.
These same synthetic oil compounds are now added to mineral oils to add additional seal conditioning ability to mineral oils in engines more prone to leaking with any oil.
So, my points were:
1) Not all "synthetics" are the same.
2) Current synthetic formulations don't have the same problems as older ones.
ProjectLSVTEG, I saw a stock Honda Civic driven by a Canadian housewife thin Royal Purple from a 10W-30 to a 10W-20 in 1,500 miles. Enjoy that bling-bling oil if you must!
Early PAO-type synthetics (Mobil 1, Amsoil, etc ... Group IV synthetic oil) were not formulated as well as they could have been (live and learn, I guess) and were not seal-friendly in some engines already prone to leaking. They balanced this a number of ways, one of which was to use a synthetic ester (Group V synthetic) to condition the seals and reduce leaking in ALL engines.
These same synthetic oil compounds are now added to mineral oils to add additional seal conditioning ability to mineral oils in engines more prone to leaking with any oil.
So, my points were:
1) Not all "synthetics" are the same.
2) Current synthetic formulations don't have the same problems as older ones.
ProjectLSVTEG, I saw a stock Honda Civic driven by a Canadian housewife thin Royal Purple from a 10W-30 to a 10W-20 in 1,500 miles. Enjoy that bling-bling oil if you must!
to 10w-20? that kinda concerns me if it thinned out that much? just wondering where could I view the test on that?
Lots of good info. I think i will stick with a 10w-30 high milage becouse of price. I just don't want the damn thing to blow up half way to work!!
EDIT: I mean 5w-30 high milage oil
EDIT: I mean 5w-30 high milage oil
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TODA GS_R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honda genuine! i use to run mobil1 synthetic...thats koo too</TD></TR></TABLE>
i heard switching from syntetic back to normal motor oil is bad for your motor
i would go 10-30 just because its a high mileage car
i heard switching from syntetic back to normal motor oil is bad for your motor
i would go 10-30 just because its a high mileage car
since your car has 130k.....i recommend 10w40....its thicker than 10w30.....but not too thick. also, 10w40 doesn't burn-off as easily as 10w30 or 5w30. Plus ur living in hot *** texas so 10w40 would help out alot more!!!
Ok, moment of truth.... im going down to the local auto store to purchase some oil. Kinda nervous...so many choices....so many different opinions. So questions is do i go 5w-30? 10w-30? 10-40? I have eliminated synthetic because of higher cost but if someone has a compelling argument to use it I could sell a kidney or lung or something to buy that ****!!! Should i go to a high mileage (this baby still kicks *** @130k matha *****!!) J/K any way, let me know what you think. This kind of feels like a game show, Welcome to WHATS MY OIL?
Well, that's stupid. In the end i somehow get the impression that as there is some significant deference in the groups (group II vs. group IV for instance) most oil has been engineered to be competitive to others in the group so they all have the same qualities.
IN SHORT: 130K miles DALLAS TX. NEED OIL CHANGE, WHAT DO I USE; WEIGHT/BRAND
Well, that's stupid. In the end i somehow get the impression that as there is some significant deference in the groups (group II vs. group IV for instance) most oil has been engineered to be competitive to others in the group so they all have the same qualities. IN SHORT: 130K miles DALLAS TX. NEED OIL CHANGE, WHAT DO I USE; WEIGHT/BRAND
If you've got a Walmart near you they've got 5 quart jugs of the high mileage stuff (Castrol, Valvoline, Pennzoil) for about 10 bucks. I've got a 94 GSR with about the same mileage and I've been using Castrol Syntec 5w-30 (they were outta 10w) which runs about 20 bucks for 5 qt. at Walmart. I've used the Castrol and Valvoline HM stuff and both of them were fine... I switched to Mobil 1 for a couple of oil changes and my engine kept consuming it even after 6k so I switched to Syntec and it uses no oil at all. If you plan on changing your oil every 3k you can pretty much throw in any brand name 10w30.


