I recently broke off the head of the bolt that attaches to the rear LCA and goes through the lower shock mount while trying to install my Omnipower drag coilovers. I figured I might as well throw some Omnipower or Function7 LCA's on while I had everything apart, so I'm placing an order for those very soon. The bolts that attach the stock LCA to the unibody of the car are stuck just like the shock bolt and the heads will more than likely snap off just like the other.

I checked with a dealer and the bolts that I need are $7 a piece, and the nut that I need is actually welded to the shock. $42 for just the bolts is ridiculous, so after some researching I believe I have found what I need from McMaster-Carr. The bolts are Grade 10.9 M10x1.5 partially threaded 16mm head with a 80mm length, a washer on each side with a thickness of 2.3mm, and a M10x1.5 hex nut with a 17mm head and thickness of 8mm. All of these are stainless steel.

Total cost of materials is $22.82 without shipping, with enough parts to do this twice. I've measured everything and it should all fit, I'm just wondering if anyone has any suggestions. I hope to be installing this next Monday (the 29th) as I will have the day off and access to a shop with torch, plasma cutter, die grinders and whatever else is needed to get these bastard bolts off.

I can post up all the part numbers if anyone wants to take a look. Has anyone done this before/have any suggestions? Thanks.


Modified by daveG at 7:48 PM 8/24/2005

 

Those Bolts SUCkass. Took forever to get them off. Drilled them out . You can find the bolts at ACE hardware. 8.8 grade

Rethread the nut. The bolts seized to the bushing. Cheap design gave us this problem.
Use lots of anti-seize. And washers for spacers weld them together if you have to.

 

I just ordered 10.9 grade bolts from McMaster-Carr as well as new nuts. I don't plan on reusing any of the original hardware.

 

What model is your car? I'd be interested in a list of needed fasteners so I don't have to go through every bolt and determine its size.

It would be nice to be able just to order the whole batch for the rear suspension.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chinese acrobat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can find the bolts at ACE hardware. 8.8 grade
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont use that junk in your suspension. Go for Grade 10.9 bolts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont use that junk in your suspension. Go for Grade 10.9 bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. I'll post up my list of parts from McMaster-Carr later today, as well as pictures when they come in.

 

uh.. honda uses 1.25 pitch.

i dont think using generic bolts is a good idea. its not about the hardness or quality. its just that there more to the design of the fastener than the thread pitch and length. look at each control arm bolt, almost all of them are unique, with specific shoulder lengths, OD for proper clearance to the shock or bushing, tapered tip, and even a plastic lock button at the end of each bolt, right where the nut is. and you may not believe it, but each bolt is coated with corrosion resistant layer.

i can find a ton of these bolts from the junkyard and will ship anyone a set if you need it. just let me know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> look at each control arm bolt, almost all of them are unique, with specific shoulder lengths, OD for proper clearance to the shock or bushing, tapered tip, and even a plastic lock button at the end of each bolt, right where the nut is. and you may not believe it, but each bolt is coated with corrosion resistant layer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats funny, cause they're all listed as the same part number on Majestic Honda's website. I'm going to give these a shot anyways, so we'll see what happens.

 

well, i said almost! the rear lower outer and inner bolts/bushings are the same, but if you compare every other bolt, theyre pretty unique to each other. so the point remains.

but you still need to verify that bolt pitch. honda manual clearly shows 10x1.25 sized bolts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, i said almost! the rear lower outer and inner bolts/bushings are the same, but if you compare every other bolt, theyre pretty unique to each other. so the point remains.

but you still need to verify that bolt pitch. honda manual clearly shows 10x1.25 sized bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The ones I have right now are 10x1.5, because all McMaster-Carr has in a 1.25 pitch are M8 bolts in Class 10.9. If I went with some Class 8.8, I could get M10x1.25 bolts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The ones I have right now are 10x1.5</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those wont work. The thread pitch on all the rear suspension bolts is 10x1.25.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those wont work. The thread pitch on all the rear suspension bolts is 10x1.25.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I ordered nuts as well as bolts, both 10x1.5.

 

youre going to break off the nuts on the subframe and trailing arm for the sake of using the wrong sized bolts?????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I ordered nuts as well as bolts, both 10x1.5.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do not do this, you're going about it the wrong way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">youre going to break off the nuts on the subframe and trailing arm for the sake of using the wrong sized bolts?????</TD></TR></TABLE>

The bolts are stuck in the nuts there. I don't really see any other option besides cutting them to get things apart, unless you have a better suggestion. Also, what about for the strut to control arm mount? The nut for that is welded to the fork. Would you recommend stock bolts with M10x1.25 nuts?


Modified by daveG at 9:48 AM 8/30/2005

 

Alright I've been checking online at Majestic Honda, and I'm going to all 6 of the bolts from the lower control arm (Part #22747). What do you guys suggest using for a nut on the other side since the control arms that I am using and shocks don't have the nut welded on?

All the other bolts/nuts are going back to McMaster-Carr as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright I've been checking online at Majestic Honda, and I'm going to all 6 of the bolts from the lower control arm (Part #22747). What do you guys suggest using for a nut on the other side since the control arms that I am using and shocks don't have the nut welded on?

All the other bolts/nuts are going back to McMaster-Carr as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used some of the 14mm nuts from Honda that were meant for the top mounts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The bolts are stuck in the nuts there. I don't really see any other option besides cutting them to get things apart, unless you have a better suggestion. Also, what about for the strut to control arm mount? The nut for that is welded to the fork. Would you recommend stock bolts with M10x1.25 nuts?


Modified by daveG at 9:48 AM 8/30/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds like the bolts are stuck in the bushing sleeves, not the nuts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4door_demon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used some of the 14mm nuts from Honda that were meant for the top mounts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what I was thinking. You mean the one on the top of the shock, correct? Or are you referring to the two that mount each shock at the top?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats what I was thinking. You mean the one on the top of the shock, correct? Or are you referring to the two that mount each shock at the top?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The two that mount the shock hat to the tower.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

sounds like the bolts are stuck in the bushing sleeves, not the nuts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed. find a way to separate the control arm from the subframe/traling arm. save the nuts! (LOL) seriously, dont mess up more than you have to.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">agreed. find a way to separate the control arm from the subframe/traling arm. save the nuts! (LOL) seriously, dont mess up more than you have to.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know, the bolts are definitely stuck in the bushings. I'm thinking of drilling the bolts out as someone recommended in another thread. They said using a smaller bit the bolt cracked apart and the nut was salvagable. I think they also used a Dremel or similar cutting tool to get the nuts free from the shock mount etc.