proper tire infaltion/mpg (searched)
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
proper tire infaltion/mpg (searched)
what is the ideal psi for proper tire inflation? my mpg suks *****!!! its 17 (if im lucky-18) in the city and im a granny on the throttle most the time. it has i/e, but i duno if the tires are killing me or that it just wieghs a whoppin 3000 pounds. how do some guys/gals here get 22-28 in the city? its insane!
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: CT, USA
Re: proper tire infaltion/mpg (pooMan)
The recommended pressure for my 6th gen coupe is 29psi, which is way lower than for my previous (though heavier) vehicles. I went up to 35psi which is just shy of what I ran on my last car. I got 33.5mpg on my last tank of gas with a 50/50 mix of in-town and highway driving. The lowest I have seen is 28.4mpg since I bought the car 2,000 miles ago.
I don't want to go any higher on the pressure because I've been told that severe over-inflation can have adverse effects on handling and tire wear.
I don't want to go any higher on the pressure because I've been told that severe over-inflation can have adverse effects on handling and tire wear.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,573
Likes: 1
From: Springfield, IL, USA
Re: proper tire infaltion/mpg (pooMan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pooMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is the ideal psi for proper tire inflation? my mpg suks *****!!! its 17 (if im lucky-18) in the city and im a granny on the throttle most the time. it has i/e, but i duno if the tires are killing me or that it just wieghs a whoppin 3000 pounds. how do some guys/gals here get 22-28 in the city? its insane!</TD></TR></TABLE>What is the year, model (EX/LX/DX/?), engine size (V6 / I4), and transmission (auto/manual) of your car?
I get in the mid to upper 20s on mixed city / highway driving on my '99 LX, I4, with manual transmission.
As for the proper inflation, the owner's manual for my car says to use 29 psi for 195/70R14 (DX models) or 30 psi for 195/65R15 (LX & EX models). But I ignore that and follow what the tire manufacturer says, which is 35 psi if I remember right.
This actually is an interesting question, do you follow the recommendation of the car manufacturer, or the tire manufacturer? I follow the tire manufacturer's recommendations, but that's just because it's how I've always done it.
If you remember the Firestone / Ford Explorer problems from '99 to '00 or so, one of the problems was that Ford was recommending a lower air pressure so that the ride was smoother, but that put extra stress on the sidewalls of the tires. Combine that with Firestones that had problems (mostly manufactured at their Decatur, Illinois factory during a major labor dispute from'94 to '96 or so), and it was a recipie for disaster. Were the tires made poorly by inexperienced replacement workers, or were they sabotaged by disgruntled union workers who had crossed the line? We'll never know, by the way that plant was shut down shortly after the problems came to light.
I get in the mid to upper 20s on mixed city / highway driving on my '99 LX, I4, with manual transmission.
As for the proper inflation, the owner's manual for my car says to use 29 psi for 195/70R14 (DX models) or 30 psi for 195/65R15 (LX & EX models). But I ignore that and follow what the tire manufacturer says, which is 35 psi if I remember right.
This actually is an interesting question, do you follow the recommendation of the car manufacturer, or the tire manufacturer? I follow the tire manufacturer's recommendations, but that's just because it's how I've always done it.
If you remember the Firestone / Ford Explorer problems from '99 to '00 or so, one of the problems was that Ford was recommending a lower air pressure so that the ride was smoother, but that put extra stress on the sidewalls of the tires. Combine that with Firestones that had problems (mostly manufactured at their Decatur, Illinois factory during a major labor dispute from'94 to '96 or so), and it was a recipie for disaster. Were the tires made poorly by inexperienced replacement workers, or were they sabotaged by disgruntled union workers who had crossed the line? We'll never know, by the way that plant was shut down shortly after the problems came to light.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: proper tire infaltion/mpg (Heat)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Heat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the year, model (EX/LX/DX/?), engine size (V6 / I4), and transmission (auto/manual) of your car?
I get in the mid to upper 20s on mixed city / highway driving on my '99 LX, I4, with manual transmission.
As for the proper inflation, the owner's manual for my car says to use 29 psi for 195/70R14 (DX models) or 30 psi for 195/65R15 (LX & EX models). But I ignore that and follow what the tire manufacturer says, which is 35 psi if I remember right.
This actually is an interesting question, do you follow the recommendation of the car manufacturer, or the tire manufacturer? I follow the tire manufacturer's recommendations, but that's just because it's how I've always done it.
If you remember the Firestone / Ford Explorer problems from '99 to '00 or so, one of the problems was that Ford was recommending a lower air pressure so that the ride was smoother, but that put extra stress on the sidewalls of the tires. Combine that with Firestones that had problems (mostly manufactured at their Decatur, Illinois factory during a major labor dispute from'94 to '96 or so), and it was a recipie for disaster. Were the tires made poorly by inexperienced replacement workers, or were they sabotaged by disgruntled union workers who had crossed the line? We'll never know, by the way that plant was shut down shortly after the problems came to light.</TD></TR></TABLE>
u shud work for the history channel =D
I get in the mid to upper 20s on mixed city / highway driving on my '99 LX, I4, with manual transmission.
As for the proper inflation, the owner's manual for my car says to use 29 psi for 195/70R14 (DX models) or 30 psi for 195/65R15 (LX & EX models). But I ignore that and follow what the tire manufacturer says, which is 35 psi if I remember right.
This actually is an interesting question, do you follow the recommendation of the car manufacturer, or the tire manufacturer? I follow the tire manufacturer's recommendations, but that's just because it's how I've always done it.
If you remember the Firestone / Ford Explorer problems from '99 to '00 or so, one of the problems was that Ford was recommending a lower air pressure so that the ride was smoother, but that put extra stress on the sidewalls of the tires. Combine that with Firestones that had problems (mostly manufactured at their Decatur, Illinois factory during a major labor dispute from'94 to '96 or so), and it was a recipie for disaster. Were the tires made poorly by inexperienced replacement workers, or were they sabotaged by disgruntled union workers who had crossed the line? We'll never know, by the way that plant was shut down shortly after the problems came to light.</TD></TR></TABLE>
u shud work for the history channel =D
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
its an lx with an l4 (f23a4) motor with an auto tranny. the rims are 17x7.5 with lo profile tires. dont manual tranny get more mpg since u have control of the gears? i try to shift at 3000rpm with the auto (manually and when in d4).............
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,286
Likes: 2
From: Land of Entrapment
Re: proper tire infaltion/mpg (P_Adams)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P_Adams »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">32psi Front
30psi Rear
This is on 15x6 '97 SE alloy rims / 205/60x15 Toyo Spectrum Tires
No wear after 42000 miles
29 city / 33 highway
P</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes and if you haul a lot of stuff in your trunk or have speakers you may want to go 32 all around.
I run 32-33 and I get average of 27 mpg with 254K on my wagon. 1 quart of oil every 3 days. hehe
30psi Rear
This is on 15x6 '97 SE alloy rims / 205/60x15 Toyo Spectrum Tires
No wear after 42000 miles
29 city / 33 highway
P</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes and if you haul a lot of stuff in your trunk or have speakers you may want to go 32 all around.
I run 32-33 and I get average of 27 mpg with 254K on my wagon. 1 quart of oil every 3 days. hehe
Trending Topics
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
Re: (pooMan)
its ur rims man. i had these heavy *** chromed out 17s on my 94 accord ex auto. maan the gas mileage was soooo shity. i was like ****. either change the rims or buy a civic. lmao. and shifting with auto. eh. i tried that too. it doesnt work. u need to get a manual tranny buddy. that should help u get maybe a couple more mpgs. but i loved my 92 civic cx. kinda miss my 94 accord ex but i know its in good hands...sold it for 2800 to my cuzin who lives with me.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,456
Likes: 10
From: New England, USA
Re: (BLKFLSH)
Actually, the quick answer is:
It all comes down to Contact Patch (part of the tire that actually touches the pavemant) and shared weight of the vehicle , as expressed in Pounds per square inch.
For example:
a 205/60x15 with a contact patch of 28 sq inches (7"x4"), supporting 1400 pounds is carrying a load of 50 PSI (as an example).
Slam on your space saver spare with a contact patch of 14 sq inches (3.5"x4"), supporting 1400 pounds is carrying a load of 100 PSI (as an example)
I think you'll see the ralationship
P
It all comes down to Contact Patch (part of the tire that actually touches the pavemant) and shared weight of the vehicle , as expressed in Pounds per square inch.
For example:
a 205/60x15 with a contact patch of 28 sq inches (7"x4"), supporting 1400 pounds is carrying a load of 50 PSI (as an example).
Slam on your space saver spare with a contact patch of 14 sq inches (3.5"x4"), supporting 1400 pounds is carrying a load of 100 PSI (as an example)
I think you'll see the ralationship
P
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,735
Likes: 7
From: Thibodaux, LA, USA
Re: (P_Adams)
So if you change the size of rim and tire, the stock tire pressures would not apply, right (If different contact patch), Which is clearly the case here. Is there an easy way to figure it out, an equation or someting. I might change my rims one day. (92 EX sedan kept 12 years , 03EXV6 sedan new loving every miniute of it).
Modified by BLKFLSH at 8:16 PM 8/26/2005
Modified by BLKFLSH at 8:16 PM 8/26/2005
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,456
Likes: 10
From: New England, USA
Re: (BLKFLSH)
I've found thru the years that are several factors to balance with regards to tires, rims, tire pressure, tire longevity and fuel consumption; and it comes down to this.
1) Idealy, the tire tread width should be close to the rim width. for two reasons
a) Too wide a tire will pinch the sidewalls inward at the rim causing the tire tread to bow out in the center, requiring a lower than recommended pressure to avoid tread wear in the center
b) Too narrow a tire will spread the sidewalls at the rim causing the tire tread to bow inward, requiring a higher than recommended pressure to avoid tread wear in the sholder area (outside edges)
2) Generally, a wider tire requires less inflation pressure to support the same weight. This has to do with the wider tire having a larger contact patch; and the theory that the same pressure applied over a larger area will support more weight.
3 Rolling resistance (a direct effect against fuel economy) is directly effected by inflation pressure. Generally, the harder the tire, the less rolling resistance.
There is a really low tech way to do this (if you don't want to try the "inflate it, drive it and adjust it" method) and it involves a floor jack, a can of black spray paint and some construction paper.
It involves a base (with your original tires) test of jacking the car up, spray the bottom of the tire tread (sholder to scholder), lowering the tire onto the construction paper, jacking the car back up and retrieving the paper with a print of your contact patch. (save it with your records)
When it comes time for the new tires/rims; mount them to the car (at the recommended tire pressure) and repeat.
Take both prints and determine the area in square inches for both. The ratio of the size difference between the two will give you how much to lower the new tire pressures.
For example: If the contact patch for the new tires is 10% larger than the original, then you reduce the inflation pressure by the same percentage. (32psi - 3.2Psi = 28.8psi)
P
1) Idealy, the tire tread width should be close to the rim width. for two reasons
a) Too wide a tire will pinch the sidewalls inward at the rim causing the tire tread to bow out in the center, requiring a lower than recommended pressure to avoid tread wear in the center
b) Too narrow a tire will spread the sidewalls at the rim causing the tire tread to bow inward, requiring a higher than recommended pressure to avoid tread wear in the sholder area (outside edges)
2) Generally, a wider tire requires less inflation pressure to support the same weight. This has to do with the wider tire having a larger contact patch; and the theory that the same pressure applied over a larger area will support more weight.
3 Rolling resistance (a direct effect against fuel economy) is directly effected by inflation pressure. Generally, the harder the tire, the less rolling resistance.
There is a really low tech way to do this (if you don't want to try the "inflate it, drive it and adjust it" method) and it involves a floor jack, a can of black spray paint and some construction paper.
It involves a base (with your original tires) test of jacking the car up, spray the bottom of the tire tread (sholder to scholder), lowering the tire onto the construction paper, jacking the car back up and retrieving the paper with a print of your contact patch. (save it with your records)
When it comes time for the new tires/rims; mount them to the car (at the recommended tire pressure) and repeat.
Take both prints and determine the area in square inches for both. The ratio of the size difference between the two will give you how much to lower the new tire pressures.
For example: If the contact patch for the new tires is 10% larger than the original, then you reduce the inflation pressure by the same percentage. (32psi - 3.2Psi = 28.8psi)
P
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: Englewood, FL, USA
Re: proper tire infaltion/mpg (pooMan)
I ussually get around 25-28 mpg, 25 being with A/C on mostly, 28 with no A/C mixed driving but 75% Highway. Auto tranny with 17 inch rims and Sport drop suspension. My tires are the Kumho 711 ecsta. I keep them around 35. Seems to be most comfortable there. Also when you start increasing your rolling diameter, you mpg might be affected.
I live in florida, and my city is quite small lowest I got was 23. BTW a good aftermarket rim should weigh way less than any steelie. Good for Less Unsprung weight. Just my 2cents.
I live in florida, and my city is quite small lowest I got was 23. BTW a good aftermarket rim should weigh way less than any steelie. Good for Less Unsprung weight. Just my 2cents.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Charri
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
6
Jun 23, 2005 01:57 PM
