Compression test on my R =(
so yes i was at my buddies shop tonight and decided to do a compression test on the car since it seemed to take a little long to start...but anyways it did 150-140-140-150.....any ideas? i mean this is kinda low for a type-r and all but shrug car only has 34k on it too
that is incredibly low for a type-r with only 34k on it
new cars should be around 240 - across all cylinders with 5psi or so between each for a really healthy motor
i would think your car should be at or around 220-230 across
new cars should be around 240 - across all cylinders with 5psi or so between each for a really healthy motor
i would think your car should be at or around 220-230 across
How is the car pulling? Those number all look suspiciously close, even though they are all low. If the motor still pulls hard, I would suspect that the gauge is ****'d.....
Those #s are very close to each other, I'm betting something was not done right when you tested....
Do it again and make sure the fuel is off and the Throttle is open.
Do it again and make sure the fuel is off and the Throttle is open.
having the throttle open will make a ton of difference, just make sure the ignition is disconnected.
with that low of compression on all 4, i would think you would notice a SIGNIFICANT lack of performance out of the engine.
also, the odds of all 4 cylinders being that low but that close is exceptionally low. i would suspect dast kompressor device ist kaput, or you don't have the throttle open.
with that low of compression on all 4, i would think you would notice a SIGNIFICANT lack of performance out of the engine.
also, the odds of all 4 cylinders being that low but that close is exceptionally low. i would suspect dast kompressor device ist kaput, or you don't have the throttle open.
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Sounds like the numbers are fine, but you did not do it at WOT. My numbers are about 40% lower at closed throttle than WOT. Do it again, WOT, and repost.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tnord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the instructions with my tester said turn it over 5-7 times, i'm pretty sure you get an accurate reading after only a couple though. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have the new snap-on tester, the relief valve will make a whistling noise as soon as you have reached maximum pressure two cranks in a row, makes doing the test solo much easier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tnord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the instructions with my tester said turn it over 5-7 times, i'm pretty sure you get an accurate reading after only a couple though. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have the new snap-on tester, the relief valve will make a whistling noise as soon as you have reached maximum pressure two cranks in a row, makes doing the test solo much easier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those #s are very close to each other, I'm betting something was not done right when you tested....
Do it again and make sure the fuel is off and the Throttle is open.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, make sure it at wot and crank at least 5 times
Do it again and make sure the fuel is off and the Throttle is open.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, make sure it at wot and crank at least 5 times
Did you do it cold or warm? What brand tester did you use? I had a shitty autozone one that tested anywhere from 150-160 then went out and bought a snap on which read 230 straight.
well i did it a little warm...at first i didnt have the injectors off then we did it again but i still didnt have it WOT i believe the tester is a snap on so i dunno..i cranked it 4 times
http://www.c-speedracing.com has instructions and I do it based on those and get great results
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tnord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how odd......my shitty autozone one reads about 160 on mine, and 165 on "built," spec miata motors.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have seen some CRAZY differentials between some better and lesser brand gauges, dealing with compression tests.
-s
</TD></TR></TABLE>I have seen some CRAZY differentials between some better and lesser brand gauges, dealing with compression tests.
-s
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boondock Saint »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also disconnect your injectors, other wise you'll be dumping fuel and throwing your numbers off.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just pull the 15A ECU fuse.
Just pull the 15A ECU fuse.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and having throttle open has little affect on the reading!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I always seem to get 30-40psi lower w/ the throttle closed
I always seem to get 30-40psi lower w/ the throttle closed
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">TRY A NEW COMPRESSION GUAGE!!!
and having throttle open has little affect on the reading!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, very true I never notice much difference maybe 5 psi with the throttle open.
and having throttle open has little affect on the reading!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, very true I never notice much difference maybe 5 psi with the throttle open.



