91 CRX weight reduction?
What did Honda add to the HF CRX's to get them to 19?? lbs...they started out at 1813 lbs right?....then got up to the high 1900's....when comparing HF to HF...what did they add?....can it be safely removed to get the lbs. back down to the 1988 level? I'm not talking about gutting here(that is the easy way).....I'm interested in the other things like heavier sway bars...maybe the A/C compressor was heavier...stuff like that.
Modified by 1990hondaHF at 3:45 PM 8/18/2005
Modified by 1990hondaHF at 3:45 PM 8/18/2005
I think a lot of it is those damn passive seatbelts, they are motorized. Never seen a weight on them though. I'd doubt trying to drop all the weight on the later years is worth not getting an earlier one and putting that money into losing weight on it, but I dunno. I'm getting a 91 with the damn seatbelts and I'm going to wait to get an 88 to mess with weight loss.
The easiest (and cheapest) way to lighten a 1991 CRX is to buy a 'FOR SALE' sign and run a classified ad. Then use the money to buy a 1988 model. Problem solved.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The easiest (and cheapest) way to lighten a 1991 CRX is to buy a 'FOR SALE' sign and run a classified ad. Then use the money to buy a 1988 model. Problem solved.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with that.
Taking interior out..especially a CRX is piontless when you may lose 10lbs. You wont notice that 10lbs trust me.
other than getting a '88 model HF, get a sawzall and go to town...lol....cut the roof off you'll notice the wieght difference then...
I agree with that.
Taking interior out..especially a CRX is piontless when you may lose 10lbs. You wont notice that 10lbs trust me.
other than getting a '88 model HF, get a sawzall and go to town...lol....cut the roof off you'll notice the wieght difference then...
how much would the lose of 150+/- lbs affect ET times? Is it worth it to wait for an 88 or 89 HF?...I say 88 or 89 cause' they are close in lbs....1819 vs 1836....or something like that...way different then 1967 lbs for the 90 and 91's....just wondering if it's worth the wait...get it "wait"...sorry, it's a bit early for the puns.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1990hondaHF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much would the lose of 150+/- lbs affect ET times? Is it worth it to wait for an 88 or 89 HF?...I say 88 or 89 cause' they are close in lbs....1819 vs 1836....or something like that...way different then 1967 lbs for the 90 and 91's....just wondering if it's worth the wait...get it "wait"...sorry, it's a bit early for the puns.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would think the weight difference is significant. After all, this 148 pound difference amounts to 8%. And a weight loss of 8% amounts to a power and torque increase of 8% - ACROSS THE ENTIRE REV RANGE. This last factor is significant, since trying to make up for 'lost power' with mods won't increase torque as much and will increase power mainly in the higher RPMs. So lighter IS better.
Also, you don't need to wait for a 1988-1989 HF. The 1988 DX is another option. It weighs in stock at 1922 pounds. But don't let this put you off. Alot of that weight difference is stuff that has to be upgraded when doing an engine swap. In other words, a swap won't increase the weight of a DX as much as an HF. Also, the DX has no sunroof. So all of the other stuff that makes the HF lighter (ie seats, flimsier bumpers, etc.) can be swapped to a DX to bring the weight down to that of the HF. And finally, a 1988 DX is going to be MUCH easier to find than a 1988-1989 HF.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I would think the weight difference is significant. After all, this 148 pound difference amounts to 8%. And a weight loss of 8% amounts to a power and torque increase of 8% - ACROSS THE ENTIRE REV RANGE. This last factor is significant, since trying to make up for 'lost power' with mods won't increase torque as much and will increase power mainly in the higher RPMs. So lighter IS better.
Also, you don't need to wait for a 1988-1989 HF. The 1988 DX is another option. It weighs in stock at 1922 pounds. But don't let this put you off. Alot of that weight difference is stuff that has to be upgraded when doing an engine swap. In other words, a swap won't increase the weight of a DX as much as an HF. Also, the DX has no sunroof. So all of the other stuff that makes the HF lighter (ie seats, flimsier bumpers, etc.) can be swapped to a DX to bring the weight down to that of the HF. And finally, a 1988 DX is going to be MUCH easier to find than a 1988-1989 HF.
dont 4get 2 add ur own weight in all this..u might be wantin 2 get down to 1900lbs but if u weigh 200 pounds...u just shot that all 2 hell..
now with my 89 si i stripped it all out in the back..nuttin but a sway bar...i took out all my A/C ****..lines,compressor,etc..plus u be suprised how much the bracket weighs..its made of cast iron...lol..no **** either...good luck
now with my 89 si i stripped it all out in the back..nuttin but a sway bar...i took out all my A/C ****..lines,compressor,etc..plus u be suprised how much the bracket weighs..its made of cast iron...lol..no **** either...good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would think the weight difference is significant. After all, this 148 pound difference amounts to 8%. And a weight loss of 8% amounts to a power and torque increase of 8% - ACROSS THE ENTIRE REV RANGE. This last factor is significant, since trying to make up for 'lost power' with mods won't increase torque as much and will increase power mainly in the higher RPMs. So lighter IS better.
Also, you don't need to wait for a 1988-1989 HF. The 1988 DX is another option. It weighs in stock at 1922 pounds. But don't let this put you off. Alot of that weight difference is stuff that has to be upgraded when doing an engine swap. In other words, a swap won't increase the weight of a DX as much as an HF. Also, the DX has no sunroof. So all of the other stuff that makes the HF lighter (ie seats, flimsier bumpers, etc.) can be swapped to a DX to bring the weight down to that of the HF. And finally, a 1988 DX is going to be MUCH easier to find than a 1988-1989 HF.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed, I think the Hf's are kind of overrated. DX's are cheaper and much easier to find. Sure, you have to deal with alittle bit of extra wiring doing an engine swap, but it's nothing in the long run. Be aware of the 88s quirky suspension differance though, they use differant LCAs and shock mounts in the rear, making rear shocks harder to find.
On the note of adding weight with upgrades, does anyone know if switching to rear discs (assuming non-aluminum HF drums) adds much weight?
Also, you don't need to wait for a 1988-1989 HF. The 1988 DX is another option. It weighs in stock at 1922 pounds. But don't let this put you off. Alot of that weight difference is stuff that has to be upgraded when doing an engine swap. In other words, a swap won't increase the weight of a DX as much as an HF. Also, the DX has no sunroof. So all of the other stuff that makes the HF lighter (ie seats, flimsier bumpers, etc.) can be swapped to a DX to bring the weight down to that of the HF. And finally, a 1988 DX is going to be MUCH easier to find than a 1988-1989 HF.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed, I think the Hf's are kind of overrated. DX's are cheaper and much easier to find. Sure, you have to deal with alittle bit of extra wiring doing an engine swap, but it's nothing in the long run. Be aware of the 88s quirky suspension differance though, they use differant LCAs and shock mounts in the rear, making rear shocks harder to find.
On the note of adding weight with upgrades, does anyone know if switching to rear discs (assuming non-aluminum HF drums) adds much weight?
i love my 88 HF :heart:
just remember that if it is a drag car ur bulding, u only make it lighter from where u startoff.
1900 lb car u gotta take 100 lbs out to get it to 1800, but i just took 100 lbs out of my 1800lb crx
its a big difference, and a 88 DX isint a bad idea
just remember that if it is a drag car ur bulding, u only make it lighter from where u startoff.
1900 lb car u gotta take 100 lbs out to get it to 1800, but i just took 100 lbs out of my 1800lb crx
its a big difference, and a 88 DX isint a bad idea
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
On the note of adding weight with upgrades, does anyone know if switching to rear discs (assuming non-aluminum HF drums) adds much weight?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think I read somewhere that the difference is only like six pounds.
On the note of adding weight with upgrades, does anyone know if switching to rear discs (assuming non-aluminum HF drums) adds much weight?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think I read somewhere that the difference is only like six pounds.
at the strip, everyone i talked to says for every 100 lbs you lose, expect a tenth of a second difference, but if you're not runnin low times, they tell me its not gonna make that much of a difference. i have an 88 hf with a sohc zc, and its a fast little bugger, and thats with about 150 lbs of extra stereo equipment. here's a tip. measure how much room you have before you build a box for two 12" JL's. cause it looked like i had plenty of room in the back, it looks huge back there empty, but it took three people pounding on it to get it in there, and i think i'd have to take a saw to get it out. lol. at least i know it can't be stolen.
take the dash out strip oput all the air ducks and a/c bull **** thats under the dash.take out the spare tire.buy c/f hood.get c/f hatch with lexan rear window.take out passenger seat.think of it this way,IF IT DOESNT MAKE IT GO FATSER OR STOP BETTER TAKE IT OFF.
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