i know this isn't on an integra, but i figured i'd get the quickest response here.

thanks to jim (batoutahell), he told me how to seperate the LCA and ball joint via a jack and a wratchet on my 94 legend. neat trick, way better than the pickle fork method o'reiley's suggested. but now i'm stuck with a castle nut on the stud. when the castle nut is turned, the stud turns with it. i've got the thing soaked in PB Blaster, and i try to "impact," it off as best i can via quick turns of the wrench, but it just won't seperate. i'm really worried that the nut itself, or even worse, the stud has been stripped, and i'm going to have to do 5x the work originally intended.

please help,

expo 5 attendee, instructor, and former GSR owner.

 

You're just removing the axle, right? The last time I wanted to remove an axle and the castle nut wouldn't let go of the stud, I ended up dismantling the upper arm and the steering joints instead, then pivoting the axle out of the hub.

 

this worked for me on my integra. i had the same prob.

i got one of those mini vice grips, one that can fit and hold the stud while you screw on the nut (so the stud doesnt turn). its kinda complicated at first. but you need a vice grip thin enought to hold that stud so you can get enough of the nut to thread on and catch so it wont turn the stud when you take the vice grip off.


or try to tilt the stud so it kinda catches on the inside of the hole, putting pressure on it so it tries not to turn.


man, i confused myself. haha gluck

 

Is the stud spinning with the nut? If so you may need to call upon the help of air tools, preferably something with lots of reverse torque.

Northern sells a 1/2" drive impact wrench with 900 lb/ft of reverse torque for something like $150.

 

yeah, all i'm trying to do is take out the axle and replace it so the cv doesn't aSSpl0de and make me crash. first, i'll try just spinning it off of there since it's been soaking in blaster while i eat lunch. second, i'll try the vice grip method. third, i'll see if my neighbors have an electric impact. and finally, i'll just disassemble the whole suspension.


other ideas are welcome, but thanks for the help fellas. hey jim, you should come work corners this weekend with me at MAM.

 

I'll think about it, but IMO working corners is like watching someone else have sex.

 

re-seat the taper'd pin of the LBJ back into the LCA.... completely remove the castle nut next time before popping the ball joint out with the jack/ratchet handle method.

 

IM' "KENSO"


he is definately the best legend guru out there.......and head Acura tech.....

check this link https://honda-tech.com/gara...=2577


https://honda-tech.com/zero...99843

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1106939

 

got it. axle's out fella's.

thanks a ton for the quick responses.

c'mon jim, i know you want to take a ride up to MAM in my new chariot.

travis
-who says that watching sex isn't as good as having it, but sometimes when you're single/broke, it's the best you can do.

AND......

mazdaspeed is giving away worker prizes on fri night! i know you want some mazda paraphanallia

 

now of course o'reiley's sold me the wrong axle seal. so now i have no way of going to get the right one.

 

First let's see if the chariot can make it to O'Reilly's. Baby steps.

The racers called, they want us to stay home. If we go it's bound to rain, a miata will blow an engine, and a honda crx will blow an engine.

Would mazda paraphernalia include (a) r comp tires, or (b) "zoom zoom" shirts?

It's tempting.

 

ok mr smarty pants. my roommate got back early from the real world (i'm not in said world, because of my age and the fact that i'm returning to school for a 3rd degree ), so i took his car to superior and got the part. i hope it won't take me more than an hour to put it back together. then i have to change rear pads on passenger side and we're ready to go.

it's already supposed to rain jim, so that's not our fault. actually sat and sun are supposed to be sunny and low 80's.

i'm guessing we'll just get zoom-zoom hats and coffee mugs. maybe if i get a blue zoom-zoom sticker, i can put it on Chris F's car instead of the hack tape job i did at expo 5.

 

now i've got big problems.

got the seal, axle, and strut fork back on. was tightening up the castle nut, when BAM. all the threads stripped on the stud coming out of the ball joint.

now what the hell do i do?

EDIT: it only took out 2 threads, so i have enough to get the casltle nut on there, but now i'm back to the problem where the nut won't turn without the stud turning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tnord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now i've got big problems.

got the seal, axle, and strut fork back on. was tightening up the castle nut, when BAM. all the threads stripped on the stud coming out of the ball joint.

now what the hell do i do?

EDIT: it only took out 2 threads, so i have enough to get the casltle nut on there, but now i'm back to the problem where the nut won't turn without the stud turning.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was trying to figure out what stud you are talking about. If it's the stud that's attached to the ball joint, you should've hacked it off, bought a new ball joint, and take the knuckle assembly somewhere to get the ball joint pressed out if you didn't already have a press yourself. Regardless, if it's moving, you need to replace that ball joint.

 

:sigh:

yes, it's the ball joint stud.

well jim, you were right. looks like i'm not going to mam.

i really gotta stop taking on these projects.

 

I'm pretty sure I have a spare ball joint laying around for the crx, but I don't know if it's compatible with a legend. And yes it needs to be pressed in. Dale has a press.

 

dale's is a bit far.

after examing what it would take to remove the hub assembly, i really want to try any other solution possible. i think i'll just go get a new castle nut and see if it'll thread on there. either that, or maybe i can have it towed somewhere. after the heat and the mess today, i just don't want to deal with it.

the timing belt better not be this hard. maybe i'll just dish out the dough to have it done.

 

Travis -- isn't the ball joint an interference fit with the LCA? If so you can press it into the LCA and get the castle nut to tighten without the ball joint spinning.

That's what we had to do on my buddy's Audi. If what I envision is correct then it's "by design".

oh -- and you get re-thread the ball joint end with nuts that are the same thread pitch, with a "reverse tap", or just by muscling the castle nut on there.

PM me if you want to talk it over and I'll send you my cell number.

Hope you're well, bud.
-Chris

 

you mean it's "keyed," kinda? sorta like the stud is "D," shaped and will only fit in there 1 way? and once i put the d-shaped peg in the d-shaped hole it should cease to spin with the nut? i sure hope it's that easy. i don't know what i'm going to do if there isn't a quick fix, i have to take this car to class 35 miles away on monday.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tnord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you mean it's "keyed," kinda? sorta like the stud is "D," shaped and will only fit in there 1 way? and once i put the d-shaped peg in the d-shaped hole it should cease to spin with the nut? i sure hope it's that easy. i don't know what i'm going to do if there isn't a quick fix, i have to take this car to class 35 miles away on monday. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes! That's another way to acheive the same effect. The stud should have a taper to it such that there is a collar which fits into the LCA. That collar will prevent the stud from rotating in the ball joint -- either via an intereference fit or a key shape.

Then the challenge is re-threading things. That is probably the harder problem.

Good luck and let me know if I can help somehow.

They talk about the taper here a bit: http://www.carcentral.net/cont...s.php

 

hopefully i can just go get a new castle nut and be done with it. if not, well, i dunno.

thanks chris for the link. it appears as though a press is a simple device i can purchase from a parts store instead of the massive hydraulic monster i thought it was.

 

I have a die set if you think the threads on the stud can be saved.

 

i think they probably can be. the two threads on the bottom are pretty much gone, but the others i think are ok. maybe i can rent a set tomorrow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tnord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks chris for the link. it appears as though a press is a simple device i can purchase from a parts store instead of the massive hydraulic monster i thought it was.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No problem, bro. Yes -- the ball joint press is a $5 item at harbor freight. The key is selecting the correct size.

 

wow......i owe you a beer if i get this done and i ever see you again. i was searching tonight looking at the different tools i might need and they were in the neighborhood of $150-$175 from sears.

are these the ones you are thinking of?

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...38335

i ordered a new ball joint that will be here in the morning. i'll run to harbor freight (aren't i lucky to have one 5min from my house) at the same time.

jim, looks like we'll have a new tool at our disposal.