Tilton Ceramic Metal, is it too much??? HELP
Hello Guys, our Civic with a B18c is pushing 235 WHP. It had the bronze Tilton Clutch and was breaking final drives every 10 laps. I was wondering if the Ceramic Metal Tilton is still too much, I need to finish the race with out breaking the final drive. Thanks
Jay
Jay
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwaked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hello Guys, our Civic with a B18c is pushing 235 WHP. It had the bronze Tilton Clutch and was breaking final drives every 10 laps. I was wondering if the Ceramic Metal Tilton is still too much, I need to finish the race with out breaking the final drive. Thanks
Jay </TD></TR></TABLE>
How much torque are you putting out? I don't see the need to run anything more aggressive than Clutch Spec Stage 2 Extreme. A crazy gnarly clutch is just going to beat the crap out of your drivetrain.
Jay </TD></TR></TABLE>
How much torque are you putting out? I don't see the need to run anything more aggressive than Clutch Spec Stage 2 Extreme. A crazy gnarly clutch is just going to beat the crap out of your drivetrain.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrHeeltoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How much torque are you putting out? I don't see the need to run anything more aggressive than Clutch Spec Stage 2 Extreme. A crazy gnarly clutch is just going to beat the crap out of your drivetrain.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Clutch companies such as ACT have a clutch selection page on their website to help you pick the right clutch. If you're not boosted then generally a heavy duty clutch is all you need. For example, for your motor, the ACT heavy duty model AI4-HDSS clutch package can handle up to 243 ft.-lbs of torque. No need to use a four or six puck clutch disk for your motor. And, amazingly, your driveline will live much longer in the process.
How much torque are you putting out? I don't see the need to run anything more aggressive than Clutch Spec Stage 2 Extreme. A crazy gnarly clutch is just going to beat the crap out of your drivetrain.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Clutch companies such as ACT have a clutch selection page on their website to help you pick the right clutch. If you're not boosted then generally a heavy duty clutch is all you need. For example, for your motor, the ACT heavy duty model AI4-HDSS clutch package can handle up to 243 ft.-lbs of torque. No need to use a four or six puck clutch disk for your motor. And, amazingly, your driveline will live much longer in the process.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Mac »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Clutch companies such as ACT have a clutch selection page on their website to help you pick the right clutch. If you're not boosted then generally a heavy duty clutch is all you need. For example, for your motor, the ACT heavy duty model AI4-HDSS clutch package can handle up to 243 ft.-lbs of torque. No need to use a four or six puck clutch disk for your motor. And, amazingly, your driveline will live much longer in the process.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed. We do generally recommend a high quality full-face organic with a solid hub deisgn. To stand up to the rigors and stress of racing, the extreme pressure plate with add a lot to the clamping force....
Puck clutches, and expecially METALLIC clutches, are not needed until you get north of 250 ft-lbs.
Agreed. We do generally recommend a high quality full-face organic with a solid hub deisgn. To stand up to the rigors and stress of racing, the extreme pressure plate with add a lot to the clamping force....
Puck clutches, and expecially METALLIC clutches, are not needed until you get north of 250 ft-lbs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrHeeltoe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Puck clutches, and expecially METALLIC clutches, are not needed until you get north of 250 ft-lbs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And beef up the rest of the drivetrain: axles, ring and pinion, tranny, ect.
Puck clutches, and expecially METALLIC clutches, are not needed until you get north of 250 ft-lbs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And beef up the rest of the drivetrain: axles, ring and pinion, tranny, ect.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwaked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> It had the bronze Tilton Clutch and was breaking final drives every 10 laps. I need to finish the race with out breaking the final drive. Thanks
Jay </TD></TR></TABLE>
Race at a longer track. If the track is longer, then the race time frame will reduce the number of laps, getting you below that 10 lap threshold.
Sorry I'm not helping, but that was the first thing that occurred to me.
Jay </TD></TR></TABLE>
Race at a longer track. If the track is longer, then the race time frame will reduce the number of laps, getting you below that 10 lap threshold.
Sorry I'm not helping, but that was the first thing that occurred to me.
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