Heya, installed 2 different ex clusters into my 92 dx and everything works but the tach. I had another thread but it got insanely off track so i created this one. Why would the whole cluster work but not the tach? I know it's not the cluster either because I tried 2 of them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Punker1234 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Heya, installed 2 different ex clusters into my 92 dx and everything works but the tach. I had another thread but it got insanely off track so i created this one. Why would the whole cluster work but not the tach? I know it's not the cluster either because I tried 2 of them.</TD></TR></TABLE>Its all wiring. The RPM is based on an electrical signal to the cluster, more pulses per min = more RPM. Check for a broken or shorted wire. This should be plug and play, we did this on my buddies 92 CX hatch without problems..

 

kk im just a complete electrical noob so i knwo this is going to be a daunting task, and people keep on mentioning how i don't hve my airbag and srs stuff plugged in but i can never get a deffinite answer on if that has ANYTHING to do with my cluster

 

hmmmmmm up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Punker1234 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">kk im just a complete electrical noob so i knwo this is going to be a daunting task, and people keep on mentioning how i don't hve my airbag and srs stuff plugged in but i can never get a deffinite answer on if that has ANYTHING to do with my cluster </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm 99% sure that wouldn't have anything to do with your tach. Check around the distributor and ECU for messed up wires.

 

kk will do, but i bought this car and this was one of the cleanest swaps ever, so im guessing it's inside the cabin thanks for the help anyone else have any thoughts? maybe something im missin something

 

anyone have a wire diagram so i can at least put some voltage into the tach to make sure 100% the tach works on this specific cluster?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SirRevvs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm 99% sure that wouldn't have anything to do with your tach. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm 100% sure the SRS doesn't have anything to do with the function of guages.. EJ EX here, stripped SRS and the tach works.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Punker1234 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone have a wire diagram so i can at least put some voltage into the tach to make sure 100% the tach works on this specific cluster?</TD></TR></TABLE>I wouldn't suggest putting voltage on the tach. I don't know at what voltage the ICM pulses to the tach, too much voltage could make a working tach ****.. I just went through the entire electrical section in my Honda Factory Service Manual and there is no test to see if the tach is working mechanically or not so here is what I would suggest; see if the guages are actually getting the pulses from the ICM. I really think it's wiring and not the gauges since you said you tried 2 different clusters, the chances of both tach being fucked is slim to none.. So lets see if the ICM is getting a signal to the gauges:

1. Remove the gauge cluster..

2. The clip your looking for is the B clip, it's a 12 pin, the one all the way to the right if your looking at the cluster from the back.. B8 is the wire we are looking for and it's a solid blue wire.. To confirm it's B8 your working with look at the wiring clip fron the wire side with the locking clip up. The B8 will be the 8th pin from thr RIGHT..

3. Once you have located the solid blue wire in B8 start the car and hook the + lead from your volt meter up to B8 while the - of the volt meter is attached to a body ground. Now don't expect it to continue to say the same voltage because it will most likely not since the ICM pulses to tell the tach what RPM the engine is running at (200ppm indicates 100RPM on the tach). Now if you get the 0.0 you know the blue wire is the culprit. Repair the wire if this is the case.

4. Now your probably about ready to come to the Chi and kill me because where the **** could the short/break be? In the car or under the hood? Here is how to answer that. Any good multimeter will have a setting for continuity tests (usually for testing diodes and what not). To determine if the engine harness or the chassis harness has the short do all the typical electrical work BS (turn IG off, disconnect - battery terminal). The Blue wire runs from the Dizzy under the IM to the clip on the drivers side of the engine bay. Disconnect this connector and check for continuity between the pin on the clip that has the blue wire and the one on the dizzy. If you have continuity here then do the same thing but now between the chassis clip in the engine bay and the B8 pin by the guages. This will allow you to narrow it down.

Sorry about the novel, I did my best explaining it in terms someone who is new to electrical work would understand. If you have any questions let me know, I'll be checking back to see how this is going for ya so let's get this **** fixed, I know it's probably pretty frustrating for you.. GL..

 

awesome! exactly what i was looking for! thanks man! I will try it out, just need a volta-meter or what not. It seems lately like i've needed one of these a lot, wheres the best place to pick one up, sears? anyone know a good price range? There are generally so many that i just stay away from them cus im not sure if im buying the correct one etc

 

Price on electrical test equipment can be outragous, but it shouldn't be for what you currently or will ever need. Just look for a digital multimeter since it is 1 tool that can measure a bunch of different things. Just make sure it can measure voltage (amperage in nice too, but rarely needed unless your up to your neck in electrical trouble shooting), resistance (this is definitely good because in cars some signals are so sensative that a little too much resistance could throw the system even if there isn't a short in the wire), and continuity (or a diode test it's sometimes called).

I appreciate your appreciation so much I did some searching for ya. Just to make it easier..

This is a nice economical Craftsman Multimeter. It sells for $25 online @
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...46000



This will be ample for your needs. Like I said pricing can look scary when you first walk up. For example I would really like this multimeter pictured below, but don't see spending $400 on a tool I already have. But this one is pimp because you can store up to 1000 reading and upload it to a computer, it's got temp in °C and °F, backlit, auto-hold, peak-hold min/max and avg measurements, dual display. Basically the best of commercially available hand-held units..



Anyway bro good luck and again any questions, concerns let me know. I'll be here all night, please save applause for the end of the show.. J/P I outta here for tonight, been neglecting Gran Tourismo 4.

 

K i still havn't gone out to my car cus im been crazy busy but im doing ti today. My buddy also told me it could be a ground, so is there a specific ground maybe i should be looking for?

 

k just checked b8, blue wire, and it read .076 volts, yet i got no reading on my tach. it'd be kinda funny if i got 2 tachs that were both broke haha

 

does the voltage go up and down when you rev the engine? It should be easily noticable with ~1000 RPM change.
what kind of swap is in it?
'00-01 teg? if so they do not have the tach wire from the distributor to the chassis harness, it needs to be added.

 

The gauges share a common ground. Make sure all 3 screws that hold the tach are installed because they make electrical connections. So you got a voltage signal when the car is running correct? Just to make sure to a continuity test between B8 and the blue wire at the dizzy (with the car off). If that all checks out then you have the worst luck in the world, getting 2 clusters where the tach doesn't work.. That would suck because new from the dealer the tach alone would cost nearly $300 to replace. Just in case you want it the part number is 78125-SR3-721 List is $350, http://www.hondapartsdeals.com will sell it for $258.37.. OUCH..

 

well it's a 2001 gsr swap into a 92 eg, but it's a teg harness so shoudln't there already be a wire for rpm? i have to admit, i also tried revving it up to see if i got a different signal and it still onyl read about .70 to .76 volts never really fluctuated a lot.

 

ding ding ding, we have a weiner.
00-01 teg's tach signal comes from the ECU not the distributor.
Run the blue wire from the distributor to the drivers side plugs and it will work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ding ding ding, we have a weiner.
00-01 teg's tach signal comes from the ECU not the distributor.
Run the blue wire from the distributor to the drivers side plugs and it will work.</TD></TR></TABLE>There we go.. You know off hand which pin?

 

okay well i talked to my buddy. He said alll i need to do is run the blue wire from the drivers side shock tower. Ont he tower it has a little blue wirnig coming out with a little blank clip ont he end, so i jus cut that clip off and wired it to my cluster, by wrapping around that wire behind one of the +'s in the back. Well that didn't work. IM so f-in confused. My car has a blue wire coming out of the dizzy. Then that wire goes into the engine wire harness, which im told it shouldn't but does, then it runs and connects to the PASSENEGERS side tower, and then it connects and then the color changes to like a light green. i don't know what to do again haha this sucks hardcore.

Thing is, i don't wanna cut into my engine harness by running the wire from the dizzy to the driver side tower if i don't know it's gonna work

 

try this. take a random peice of wire, crudely fasten it so it makes connection to the blue wire at the distributor.
connect the other end to the blue wire on the drivers side.
Start the car, see if the tach moves.
If it works, clean up the connections and fasten the new wire in with the harness and you're done.
If it doesn't then you may have to dig deeper. But I'm 99% positive that it will work.

From what I learned doing my swap (00 teg in a 92 civic) the problem isn't from the drivers side to the cluster, that part works perfectly with your old engine. it's the connection between the distributor and the drivers side connectors that is missing in the 00-01 tegs.

 

kk will give it a try

 

Yeah try that because if the teg got the signal from the ECU that wire would be missing. That should clear up the issue, let us know how it goes.. If that doesn't work my next action would be finding out what ECU pin sent the RPM signal on the teg and run the wire there (as long as the same teg ECU is being used). Damn I wish I could just pull the answer out of my *** sometimes. I hate when **** doesn't work, LOL. We'll get this **** going for ya..

 

got it!!!!! woot tachs are cool

 

how did you fix it. i think i am having the same problem. i converted my 00 teg to obd1 and now have no tach

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by advert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how did you fix it. i think i am having the same problem. i converted my 00 teg to obd1 and now have no tach</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ding ding ding, we have a weiner.
00-01 teg's tach signal comes from the ECU not the distributor.
Run the blue wire from the distributor to the drivers side plugs and it will work.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

theres always off my tach was off by 2000 rpm i thought my car ws cutting out but i was hitting revlimiter