ok i have a 91 honda civic hatcback with the 1.5 non-vetch motor. couple weeks ago the #3 cylinder droped down to 30-35 psi and the other 3 are between 85-90. it does use oil, about a half quart every other day. so i was thinkin about rebuildin this motor with new valve seals, rings, rod and main bearings. but id like to kno some info about these motors. are they just junk motors that dont hold up well??and how much potential do they have power wise??

 

Buy a B16A. Wouldn't be worth a rebuild if you want power.

 

well money is a issue right now. i need to do somethin because ridin around in a 3 banger aint fun when u hit a hill. if i rebuild this 1 it will b alot cheaper then buyin another motor and then runnin into problems with **** fittin. i jus wanna know about these motors

 

Find a nice D16Z6 and stick with the sohc. These are nice engines and it's a step up. Not worth fixing the 1.5L as you will just want something better later on and it's a waste of money. If you go the B series way get a B18C5. Bigger then the B16A and more power. If your gonna spend the money, do it right the first time . Maybe even a C32A...haha fitment issues may become a problem....lol.

It's worth going the D16Z6 way as it's cheaper, faster, has vtec and are strong engines. I don't know a whole lot about the ef engines but a 3 banger is just sad. Even a D15B7 would be an upgrade for you. Try looking into those as the are 4 bangers, 16v and are strong little engines.

 

If i were you i would just buy another D15B7 from a junk yard, it would prob be cheaper for you in the long run. i've seen people sell them for under 300 dollars

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jjaskula1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If i were you i would just buy another D15B7 from a junk yard, it would prob be cheaper for you in the long run. i've seen people sell them for under 300 dollars</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes I would do that or I would buy a sohc d15 vtec, the go for fairly cheap.

 

If he has a 91, its not a D15B7.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ajax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If he has a 91, its not a D15B7.</TD></TR></TABLE>

D15B2

 

well if i was to go to a D16Z6..what problems will i run into??? since mine is throttle body injected. and will it bolt up to my 4 speed?

PS what should the normal compression on my motor be warm??i only had 85-90 on 3 cylinders and 30 on the fucked up one


Modified by 91CivicHatchback at 10:52 PM 8/15/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91CivicHatchback &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well if i was to go to a D16Z6..what problems will i run into??? since mine is throttle body injected. and will it bolt up to my 4 speed?

PS what should the normal compression on my motor be warm??i only had 85-90 on 3 cylinders and 30 on the fucked up one


Modified by 91CivicHatchback at 10:52 PM 8/15/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tranny would have to be for the motor so no. If you want less work the stay with the same gen's motors. Switching would mean a lot more work. Well I do not know much about the ef's so I don't know about compression on those. My D15B7 has a 180psi almost all across the board.

 

so my compression should be alot higher then it is??more then likely i will end up rebuildin the engine...im not to much on power and speed..ill throw a intake and exhaust on it and make it look good. thats about all im worried about

 

bump!

 

honestly I think a replacement z6 is your best alternative. Getting your motor rebuilt correctly is going to run you about the same money as buying somebody's used z6 if not more. The problem you are going to run into is finding a decent z6. The last thing you want to do is buy an engine and have the same problem. So look around locally for one, pressure check it, and you're set. Before you put it in, if you can, take the head off and take the bottom end to a shop and have them replace the rings....all depends on your budget though and how much you can do yourself. Hope this helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91CivicHatchback &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so my compression should be alot higher then it is??more then likely i will end up rebuildin the engine...im not to much on power and speed..ill throw a intake and exhaust on it and make it look good. thats about all im worried about</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just get a nice Z6. I found one so it is all a matter of how hard you look. It is good on gas, reliable, and still powerful enough to make driving it fun.

 

BUT what kind of **** am i gunna have to swap around and change for the z6 to fit fit in and bolt up to my 4 speed tranny...if it comes down to havin to find a motor, tranny, motor mounts and change the exhaust id rather rebuild this pos..im on a tight budget right now and ive got to do somethin...its only runnin on 3 cylinders and is sloooooow lol

 

You would need the tranny, engine, mounts, ecu, engine harness, and most likely all the emissions stuff. Why don't you just find another motor that is the same as the one you have now? Then it's a direct swap.

 

yeah i could do that but then id have another engine just like mine with who knows how many miles on it..yeah it might be better then what i have, but if i totally rebuilt mine it would be better and fresher then a old used one...im not lookin for a all out swap..just wanted to know how reliable these engines are

 

Its a honda, pretty much all D series engines are very reliable. Just rebuild your D15B2.

 

To do it cheaply, you can do an in car rebuild. Remove the head and replace the valve seals. Remove the oil plan and replace the rings and rod bearings. You shouldn't have to remove the crankshaft pulley for this. BTW, the d15b2 has also 16valves like the d15b7 with only 10 less horses than the d15b7, don't let anyone fool you. If you go with a d15b7 you'll also need a new ECU as well.

 

thanks for the replys guys...i found a kit at autozone that comes with rod and main bearings, rings, full gasket set and somethin else i forgot what it was..but it dosnt come with valve seals so that sucks..but the whole kit is like $330..anyone know anywhere i can find a better deal on a kit??

 

330 bucks eh? I've never priced anything out. What about getting these items from a Honda stealership? Or you can try this website:
http://www.overnightautoparts.com/honda.html

My 1992 d15b7 engine too is reaching the end with poor compression in two cylinders 250k miles. The headgasket may have blown between two cylinders for me but I'll check it out.

You should also check your timing and ensure enough spark is being generated to burn off all the gas. Left over gas may be washing your rings and causing poor compression. Stuck injectors could also cause this. Make sure your PCV system is clean. I'm doing one 1 thing at a time before diving into ripping up the engine. So far, my timing was off and i replaced the dizzy and rotor with Honda PCV valve with much improved performance. My next step is cleaning the PCV system and replacing the sparkplug wires. And then cleaning out the injectors. Good luck.

 

****, just put up a WTB post in the wanted classified section. You'll be flooded with people wanting you to take their d15's. My guess is your rings are shot, so you may just need the block. Shortblocks can be as cheap as $50 for a low-milage d16y7.

For ease of install, get a D16A6. THats a 88-91 civic si/crx si motor. You can stick with dual-port injection (direct drop-in), or use the SI parts for more power. In that case, ecu is required. IMO its just not worth rebuilding most honda d-series motors unless you got them for free. If you want VTEC, get a D16Y8 because the OBD0 distributor bolts up much better to a y8 than a d16z6. If you plan to convert all your wiring, I'd say OBD1 d16z6.