I need to buy bolts for the manifold to turbo and 4 more for the exhaust side on the turbo. (Garrett t3 60 trim) Where is the best place to buy bolts?

 

I just used grade 8 bolts from a hardware store

 

you can get the bolts at lowes, home depot or any hardware store that sells stainless steel bolts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCD16y8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just used grade 8 bolts from a hardware store</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep, that's all I did. I used Hardware store bolts and lockwashers (see pic) on downpipe and manifold. No problem whatsoever.

 

Now that I know which bolts to use, should I use those lock washers on

both sides of the manifold or will one side hold better than the other?

 

I'm not following you. I just used 1 lock washer per bolt. I used them where my turbo bolts to the manifold and where my downpipe bolts to the turbo.

 

Use RED loctite also.

 

In my experiences, any loctite won't do anything, the temps just get way too hot for even the high heat loctite. I've found that STUDS are the best thing to use with lockwashers and nuts. Good luck. Paul

 

yea the loctite will burn away, even the red kind. There is an industrial kind that is really, really high heat resistant, but good luck finding it.

I do also suggesting using nuts also. Even if the bolts thread into the manifold, use longer ones so they come out the top and put a nut on them, this is also where you want the lockwasher if there is enough room. Hell, double nut them if possible.

usually, brand on brand new turbo setups, my experiences have been the bolts will back out. After you tighten them a few times, they will finally stay. That is as long as you used some of the methods mentioned. (lockwasher, nut)

If you still have problems with bolts backing out. Get a safety wire kit. Basically you drill holes through the head of the bolts and put a wire through each bolt so that they cannot back out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboTegB18c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In my experiences, any loctite won't do anything, the temps just get way too hot for even the high heat loctite. I've found that STUDS are the best thing to use with lockwashers and nuts. Good luck. Paul</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea automotive studs with nuts are the way to go for the DP...i used bolts and they broke off....grade 8 stainless......
but with teh studs ive had no problems....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Snoflake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yea automotive studs with nuts are the way to go for the DP...i used bolts and they broke off....grade 8 stainless......
but with teh studs ive had no problems....</TD></TR></TABLE>

So does a hardware store or something similar carry these studs?

 

yep. I found everything I ned at Lowes. I just brought my turbo and flanges in and just started fitting bolts to see if they whould work

 

carefull when picking stainless steel... its softer that regular steel and the thread my become warped and become a pain in the future under a lot of toque... depending on what you are trying to do.

 

So I should basically use four stainless steel grade 8 studs on the manifold with four locking washers and and double the nuts on the stud.( )

Since the downpipe is four bolt, I should use four stainless steel grade 8 bolts with locking washers.

How does this sound? or

 

I've done quite a few swaps in my garage, and have had nuts/bolts left over from parts that I didn't put back on so I just used those. They work great. For the downpipe I used flywheel wheel bolts. Works good for me.

In my experience anything I got from the hardware store cracked after while...

 

I don't have any extra bolts and I need my flywheel bolts in order to move, any other suggestion?

 

what manifold are you using? You could maybe purchase the Stud kit from Stan at Fast-Turbo.com

 

i just slammed a really long bolt with a nut on it, and put the bolt all the way in and then tightend down the nut, it seemed to work really well

 

Use nordlock washers, they wont loosen after that due to vibration.

 

anyone know what size the turbo hosuing bolts are?

 

i use studs for my mani to turbo, but i bought a set of lock-tabs from nissan (so the nuts holding the turbo to the manifold dont back off). theyre for a 96 300Z turbo, for the exact same location, the turbo to the manifold studs, and they work great since NOTHING else worked to keep the nuts from backing off. they were like 7 bucks, and well worth it

 

I got my studs from ATP turbo. I was wondering about material choice for nuts, bolts, washers, and studs, if anyone knows why one is better than the other.

 

well i know bolts are a lot easier to use for installation and removal, mine with studs is a PITA to get on and off...

 

Here is the setup:

OBX ramhorn manifold

t3/t04e

OBX 3" downpipe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sway892 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is the setup:

OBX ramhorn manifold

OBX 3" downpipe

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't bother with the bolts, you won't have it long anyway.