What are some strong wheels?
I know there are other variables like: where you drive, how you drive, etc; but I was wondering what are some of the stronger aftermarket "tuner"-type wheels/wheel brands out there? as far as what the wheel is made out of, what kind of metal is the strongest and most resistant to bending/cracking?
I'm tired of dodging potholes, but I still like the aftermarket wheels.
currently I'm on 16x7 Racing Hart Hyper Tuners and would prefer to stay with 16" or maybe even 15"
these are some of the brands I'm looking into:
Rays (Volk, Gram Lights)
5zigen
Black Racing
Racing Sparco
SSR (aren't they out of business?)
(basically the higher-end JDM-type stuff)
also: what are some of the more "baller" brands and some of the "imitation/generic" brands?
thanks in advance.
Modified by 41Nickle at 3:14 PM 8/15/2005
I'm tired of dodging potholes, but I still like the aftermarket wheels.
currently I'm on 16x7 Racing Hart Hyper Tuners and would prefer to stay with 16" or maybe even 15"
these are some of the brands I'm looking into:
Rays (Volk, Gram Lights)
5zigen
Black Racing
Racing Sparco
SSR (aren't they out of business?)
(basically the higher-end JDM-type stuff)
also: what are some of the more "baller" brands and some of the "imitation/generic" brands?
thanks in advance.
Modified by 41Nickle at 3:14 PM 8/15/2005
thanks. i forgot about mugen.
i'm just looking for some really good quality wheels, because they're going to be the last set i'll ever buy.
anybody know what kind of metal is the strongest? as far as what they make wheels with?
thanks all.
i'm just looking for some really good quality wheels, because they're going to be the last set i'll ever buy.
anybody know what kind of metal is the strongest? as far as what they make wheels with?
thanks all.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Screaming Vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mugens strong?
Ask the RNR owners hahaha</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dunno...was just throwin out some baller brands...
you figure if they cost alot, they'll be in good quality, i guess i was wrong
Ask the RNR owners hahaha</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dunno...was just throwin out some baller brands...
you figure if they cost alot, they'll be in good quality, i guess i was wrong
Mugen MF-10s and some of the other brands you mentioned are strong not only because of the material used (aluminum), but because of the manufacturing method (forged). Forged wheels are lighter and much stronger than cast wheels. Strongest of all are the monoblock forged wheels such as the Volk CE28s, which are stamped as one piece, not two or three pieces put together afterward.
Unfortunately, no forged wheel is cheap, due to the specialised dies used to stamp them out.
Unfortunately, no forged wheel is cheap, due to the specialised dies used to stamp them out.
thanks for the info!
so. forged aluminum one-piece (stamped and monoblock mean the same thing?) wheels are what i'm supposed to look for if i want the wheels to be as strong as possible. cast wheels are weak. what about other materials like: magnesium, steel, etc?
thanks for the suggestions on the wheels. i really appreciate the info.
so. forged aluminum one-piece (stamped and monoblock mean the same thing?) wheels are what i'm supposed to look for if i want the wheels to be as strong as possible. cast wheels are weak. what about other materials like: magnesium, steel, etc?
thanks for the suggestions on the wheels. i really appreciate the info.
No problem... Yes forged monoblock aluminum wheels are very strong, but again are not cheap. In fact if you have the money, forged magnesium wheels are what the top racing teams are using (Formula 1, JGTC etc.) Magnesium is to aluminum what aluminum is to steel: lighter, stronger, and more expensive. In the case of magnesium, waaaaay more expensive. Only top racing teams can afford it.
BTW stamped refers to the forging process used (think of a blacksmith hammering at a sword to shape/strengthen it) and monoblock refers to the fact that the whole wheel is made as one piece. Most wheels are made in two or three peices (the rim part and the center part joined with spokes, for example). The individual forged pieces can be very strong, but the weakness lies in the joins between the pieces, which cannot be as strong. Monoblock wheels have no such joins, and therefore are stronger as a whole.
BTW stamped refers to the forging process used (think of a blacksmith hammering at a sword to shape/strengthen it) and monoblock refers to the fact that the whole wheel is made as one piece. Most wheels are made in two or three peices (the rim part and the center part joined with spokes, for example). The individual forged pieces can be very strong, but the weakness lies in the joins between the pieces, which cannot be as strong. Monoblock wheels have no such joins, and therefore are stronger as a whole.
wow thanks man. i learned a lot.
too bad most of the wheels i'm interested in are cast, which means the rim and center are separate, but combined pieces (right?)
thanks again.
too bad most of the wheels i'm interested in are cast, which means the rim and center are separate, but combined pieces (right?)
thanks again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 41Nickle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">call me shallow, but i want to stay away from rotas because they're knock-offs. correct me if i'm wrong.
thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats probably what some guy driving an "american made" car says that about your entire car? Who cares? If it looks good, fits your budget and your not going to have problems, dont be a lame-o
My .02
thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats probably what some guy driving an "american made" car says that about your entire car? Who cares? If it looks good, fits your budget and your not going to have problems, dont be a lame-o
My .02
thank you for your opinion, but the "lame-o" remark was unnecessary.
here's my opinion if you care:
i'll spend my money my way.
the main reason i want to stay away from knock-offs is because: most of the time, the cost is less because there's not as much quality control, customer service, and lower grade materials.
sure, when you buy into a name-brand, you're paying more; but sometimes (most of the time) the company knows that's what you're paying extra for so they'll back their product.
here's my opinion if you care:
i'll spend my money my way.
the main reason i want to stay away from knock-offs is because: most of the time, the cost is less because there's not as much quality control, customer service, and lower grade materials.
sure, when you buy into a name-brand, you're paying more; but sometimes (most of the time) the company knows that's what you're paying extra for so they'll back their product.
yes and also you pay for a name and they go cheap on they wheels and now because of their name people will still buy them and if it break oh well you still spent 2g on a set of wheels and you will have to do it again. Look Rota make excellent quality wheels, just look how many people bought them and never read or heard of a complaint. So don't say that Rota isn't good quality how you know you never tried them. I would understand if you don't like the look of them then yes don't buy them but don't go say they are low quality because they probably are better made then most of the names you listed.
my 0.02$
Dave
my 0.02$
Dave
i wasn't trying to put down rota. i never said that rota, specifically rota, made shitty wheels.
but i don't prefer rota anyway because most of their designs are copies of other company's designs.
and how can you say rota is better quality than most of the names i listed? did you try most of those other names? and rota? if you have, i would like your input on the ones you've tried as far as their strength and durability.
but i don't prefer rota anyway because most of their designs are copies of other company's designs.
and how can you say rota is better quality than most of the names i listed? did you try most of those other names? and rota? if you have, i would like your input on the ones you've tried as far as their strength and durability.
If you are looking for a strong wheel--always get a forged wheel instead of cast. Cast wheels tend to crack and break, while forged wheels tend to bend and give when they are hit hard. Try Kodiak, Keizer Racing, Circle Racing, Taylor Duralight, all these are forged STRONG wheels availabel in sizes appropriate for small Hondas (13"-16"--whatever width you want) hope this helps, Jay.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8-BalleR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No problem... Yes forged monoblock aluminum wheels are very strong, but again are not cheap. In fact if you have the money, forged magnesium wheels are what the top racing teams are using (Formula 1, JGTC etc.) Magnesium is to aluminum what aluminum is to steel: lighter, stronger, and more expensive. In the case of magnesium, waaaaay more expensive. Only top racing teams can afford it.
BTW stamped refers to the forging process used (think of a blacksmith hammering at a sword to shape/strengthen it) and monoblock refers to the fact that the whole wheel is made as one piece. Most wheels are made in two or three peices (the rim part and the center part joined with spokes, for example). The individual forged pieces can be very strong, but the weakness lies in the joins between the pieces, which cannot be as strong. Monoblock wheels have no such joins, and therefore are stronger as a whole.</TD></TR></TABLE>FYI--magnesium is nowhere NEAR as stong as aluminum. Its just a bit lighter --so (some of the time, if the wheel is desighed properly) they can be a bit lighter than aluminum wheels. Also, there is the safety factor with magnesium wheels--if exposed to direct flame long enough, they will catch fire and burn with a hot, brilliant, light. Magnesium is what makes fireworks so bright..As well as the fact that magnesium is very unstable--it reacts with oxygen and starts pitting very quickly--so it must be protected--these qualities make it usually unsuitable for a road wheel, that is why you hardly ever see them on street cars....
BTW stamped refers to the forging process used (think of a blacksmith hammering at a sword to shape/strengthen it) and monoblock refers to the fact that the whole wheel is made as one piece. Most wheels are made in two or three peices (the rim part and the center part joined with spokes, for example). The individual forged pieces can be very strong, but the weakness lies in the joins between the pieces, which cannot be as strong. Monoblock wheels have no such joins, and therefore are stronger as a whole.</TD></TR></TABLE>FYI--magnesium is nowhere NEAR as stong as aluminum. Its just a bit lighter --so (some of the time, if the wheel is desighed properly) they can be a bit lighter than aluminum wheels. Also, there is the safety factor with magnesium wheels--if exposed to direct flame long enough, they will catch fire and burn with a hot, brilliant, light. Magnesium is what makes fireworks so bright..As well as the fact that magnesium is very unstable--it reacts with oxygen and starts pitting very quickly--so it must be protected--these qualities make it usually unsuitable for a road wheel, that is why you hardly ever see them on street cars....
actually i did check out the trak lites.
if anybody is interested:
http://www.tiretrends.com/whee...yCode--
but i think i got my heart set on the black racing proN1's.
is motegi an imitation brand? i think they are an american company. i personally prefer japanese-made.
thanks for the input.
if anybody is interested:
http://www.tiretrends.com/whee...yCode--
but i think i got my heart set on the black racing proN1's.
is motegi an imitation brand? i think they are an american company. i personally prefer japanese-made.
thanks for the input.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post





