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All Motor B16 Hatchback - Cost effective power gains?

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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 08:47 AM
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Default All Motor B16 Hatchback - Cost effective power gains?

I'm gonna have a b16 in my 90 civic h/b sometime in the next month. Looking for suggestions as to the most cost-effective ways to boost the power and keep it all motor. Figured this board would be the right place to ask that.

Keeping it all motor btw because I need something reliable to deliver pizzas in till I'm out of college.. So reliability is a big factor too.
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 10:56 AM
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Good Tuning
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 11:20 AM
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Default Re: (rtzcom)

all-motor doesnt mean "not turbo"

could be unreliable if its not tuned right.

if youre new id start with the standard IHE then mild cams. . not every header will clear your crossmember
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 03:47 PM
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the regular intake, exhaust, header(don't go cheap), mild cams and tuning. That'll get you to deliver your pizzas the fun way.
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 12:21 PM
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Headers generally make the car a lot louder, don't they?
Also, I need a suggestion on some exhaust that will flow but still be very quiet.
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 01:19 PM
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Default Re: (Jesterian)

Not too sure. RSR exhaust is real quiet.
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 01:59 PM
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Default Re: (Jesterian)

RSR Exmag will do you well. I run this on my '90 CRX with a B20VTEC with a header and no cat. Its very quiet but it rips in the higher RPMs. Makes the upper revs a lot of fun and scares S2000s.

Along with no cheaping out on the header see if you can figure out a way to get rid of your cat. You'll notice a nice top end increase. Don't go any bigger than 2.25in on the exhaust unless you're planing for boost later on.

To answer your question on headers making a car louder, I've never figured out if this was true or not. I've never seen a car with headers that retained the factory exhaust system, so that's probably why I don't know for sure. If you think about it though, exhuast is exhaust, the header simply offers less resistance to the flow of the exhaust gases, this won't necessarily make them more noise prone. Either way a good exhaust system will keep things quiet.
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 08:14 PM
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Thanks guys.. I'll check out RSR.
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 10:07 PM
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Try removing some weight. It doesn't increase power, but it will make you go faster.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 06:53 AM
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There really isn't anything in my car that I can remove. I live in Florida, so taking out the A/C isn't an option.. I need my spare tire.. My back seat sees a lot of use..
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 08:39 AM
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lightened flywheel is a wise & cheap option. it does wonders. it doesn't increase power, but, it changes the charateristics of the motor. it will rev much quicker. the con is that it deaccellerates quickly also. but, you can live with it.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 10:55 AM
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Default Re: All Motor B16 Hatchback - Cost effective power gains? (Jesterian)

nitrIs.....
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 02:28 PM
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Default Re: All Motor B16 Hatchback - Cost effective power gains? (chad)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nitrIs.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, get N2O.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 02:36 PM
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i/h/e with a 75 wet shot....best bang for the buck.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 08:09 PM
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Default Re: (Jesterian)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jesterian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There really isn't anything in my car that I can remove. I live in Florida, so taking out the A/C isn't an option</TD></TR></TABLE>

Be a man. I lived in Miami for 2 years with no A/C. You don't need carpet, a radio, bumper supports, and the seats will still stay in place without the rear plastic. There's always weight to be removed.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 08:41 PM
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Default Re: (Kendall)

Well, the nitrous was an idea I was considering for later on in the project. I'll research the lightened flywheel.. As far as removing my A/C, I'm not gonna man up on it. My radio has to stay as well, I'm delivering pizzas.. I'd go insane without it.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 08:51 PM
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Default Re: (Jesterian)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jesterian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Headers generally make the car a lot louder, don't they?
Also, I need a suggestion on some exhaust that will flow but still be very quiet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jesterian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There really isn't anything in my car that I can remove. I live in Florida, so taking out the A/C isn't an option.. I need my spare tire.. My back seat sees a lot of use..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Stop being a *****. If you don't want to remove anything and you don't want your car to be louder then keep it stock. It's a ******* honda. Your not going to gain a noticeable amount of power without spending a little cash. There isn't a magic button that is going to make your car faster...
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 09:21 PM
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who do you deliver pizza for?
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Old Aug 21, 2005 | 11:21 AM
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Default Re: (WrongWD)

Dominos.. And as far as not wanting a really loud car? Sorry if I don't want to sound like a rocket powered weedwacker. No problem with spending a little dough though. I'm planning on getting intake, headers, and exhaust.
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Old Oct 8, 2005 | 11:20 PM
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Default Re: (Jesterian)

I suggest I/H/E. I have a DC 4-1 header cold air and a crush bent 2 1/4" exhaust and my **** is quite yet it sounds great i also have a set of skunk stage 1's and a skunk intake manifold and a vtec controler in your car that would SCREAM. I think you would be VERY VERY saisfied.
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 01:36 AM
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Default Re: (egCoupe)

Hey sup I stay around you I think....has the motor been freshly rebuilt? anyways like everyone was suggesting intake, header, exhaust and progress from there. I would suggest Buddy club spec III+ for cams they run great with stock compression. For header I would look in to some type of 4-2-1 design, quiet exhaust....my pick is apex'i world sport 2 or rsr ex-mag.

Happy Motoring

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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 05:45 AM
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Default Re: (Jesterian)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jesterian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Headers generally make the car a lot louder, don't they?
Also, I need a suggestion on some exhaust that will flow but still be very quiet.</TD></TR></TABLE>


2.5" mandrel bent piping a cherry bomb(yes) and a magnaflow oval muffler.


very quiet setup, probably to quiet for most.
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 11:38 AM
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Default Re: (Jesterian)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jesterian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Sorry if I don't want to sound like a rocket powered weedwacker.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hahahaha, I don't blame ya there man. For exhaust, the Rsr exmag or maybe a 2 1/4 maderel bent piping and 10" resonator with a Magnaflow muffler would sound good.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egCoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> skunk stage 1's and a skunk intake manifold and a vtec controler in your car that would SCREAM. I think you would be VERY VERY saisfied. </TD></TR></TABLE>

An AEM intake, ^^^^^^, and JG header and exhaust, your car would get down. You can run those cams with your stock valvetrain assuming you're keeping your stock rev limiter, and you can find them used very often. The S2S1's are an awesome cam
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 12:25 PM
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I have nearly the same setup as you, only with more mods. After you have I/H/E, start modifying your fuel system with good aftermarket pieces like a STR fuel rail, B&M Fuel pressure regulator, Walbro fuel pump, Skunk 2 intake manifold, Hondata intake manifold gasket, RC injectors, AEM Tru Time cam gears. That will give you a good idea of how much power your motor will make before ripping the guts out of it....After that when you have all that done, you can assess which direction you want to go whether it's all motor or forced induction and build your motor for your needs. Anyway, I hope that helps!
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 01:22 PM
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Default Re: (Brad Stubbert)

Kinda funny how you mention a list of "good parts." First off, the B&M is one of the worst fpr's you can buy. Why is the STR fuel rail necessary?? Whats he need cam gears for if he's not gonna have it dyno tuned? And if so, why would you do the AEM's? If you're gonna do cam gears the GE's are the most accurate and cost effective. And the only reason I would do the IM gasket, which I personally would do a Pro-fab, is if he were to replace the IM itself....you're not gonna realize any power just by simply installing a "heat shield" gasket.
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